Best gun cleaning supplies?

[Guest supergus]

My new gun is on the way!! I'm keeping it a secret 'till it comes and I can post pics. Am I o.k. buying an off the shelf cleaning kit? If so, what brand? Or should I buy the brushes and rods and then buy the cleaner and lube separate? Hurry up & let me know, it'll be here Mon. or Tues. Think we'll pick up a small frame revolver for the wife too, which brings up another question I have. On a DAO revolver, the first trigger pull and all subsequent pulls are the same, correct? And on a SA/DA revolver, if I pull the trigger with the hammer down, is that initial pull going to be the same as the rest of the pulls? Hopefully you guys know what I'm trying to say.

Edited February 2, 2008 by supergus

[Guest darkstar]

Pretty much any decent kit should work well. There are "universal" kits out there that contain multiple brushes in standard calibers. They usually include a .22 size a 9mm/.38/.357 size and a .45 size, along with a couple different sized patch holders.

I tend to buy brushes for my specific calibers....they only cost a couple of bucks so why not....

As far as solvents and lubes go everyone has their favorites. Again most decent quality brands will be fine. I like the foaming bore-gel myself as it seems to clean out my bores somewhat better (and easier) than Hoppe's #9 and other similar products. Again, most of this stuff is relatively inexpensive so try some different stuff. As far as lube I use Rem-Oil, again any decent brand should be fine, try some different ones.

No matter what you get use 'em!. I'm a big fan of cleaning my firearms every time I fire them. I tend to shoot at least 100 or so rounds every time and I personally am not comfortable NOT cleaning them, but that's just me. Clean them well and oil them (without using excessive amounts of oil) and enjoy them!

[shaftbass]

I usually use Break Free for cleaning gunk, Remington bore cleaner for brushing the bores, and Rem Oil for a final coating. My only thing is I wish there was something that lasted a little longer than Rem Oil.. it seems to dry up rather quickly. It's not a huge deal though because then I get an excuse to fondle guns again.

[Guest gcrookston]

My only thing is I wish there was something that lasted a little longer than Rem Oil.. it seems to dry up rather quickly..

I've used "Collectors CLP" with great success for long term storage.

My cleaning kit is basically an old ammo can and contains the following:

brass brushes of various sizes

fine brass wool

GI plastic M16 brushes -- these are really handy

tooth brushes

bore snakes -- greatest invention since smokeless powder

brake cleaner / (or gunkout, action blaster)

Sweats 7.62 (for stubborn copper, don't let it soak too long)

Breakfree CLP

Hobbes #9 (best I've found for lead)

Tetra gun grease

Slick 50 grease

A jar of 1 part benzene to 2 parts acetone (great for cozmoline)

100% cotton rags and patches

J Dewey rods with brushes, patch holders (rods kept in gun case)

Chamber guides (rifle)

Rubber mallet, brass punches, screw drivers, wrenches...

If you buy a kit off the shelf (and I have over the years), get brass, aluminum or coated rods. Steel rods over time will mar the bore. Don't use steel brushes, steel wool.

Edited February 2, 2008 by gcrookston

[threeshot]

My new gun is on the way!! I'm keeping it a secret 'till it comes and I can post pics. Am I o.k. buying an off the shelf cleaning kit? If so, what brand? Or should I buy the brushes and rods and then buy the cleaner and lube separate? Hurry up & let me know, it'll be here Mon. or Tues. Think we'll pick up a small frame revolver for the wife too, which brings up another question I have. On a DAO revolver, the first trigger pull and all subsequent pulls are the same, correct? And on a SA/DA revolver, if I pull the trigger with the hammer down, is that initial pull going to be the same as the rest of the pulls? Hopefully you guys know what I'm trying to say.

Regarding the trigger pull for the revolver, each shot will have the same trigger pull if you do not manually pull back the hammer. If you do pull hammer back, then the only that shot will have a shorter trigger pull. This will make more sense when you get the gun.

SA/DA if the gun hammer is in the down position, then the first trigger pull will be longer than the follow-up shots.

Here is a great kit to get you started (get the large kit):

http://glockmeister.com/product_info.php?cPath=59&products_id=8

[Guest TN.Frank]

I've been using Ballistol for quite a number of years now and I love it. It works on everything including blackpowder and corrosive primed ammo. Do a google on it and you'll see just how amazing this stuff really is.

[Guest DrBoomBoom]

All good info. Make sure you didn't miss this:

J Dewey rods

The Dewey rods are great. The only thing I'd add, I like the brass jags with the sharp tips much better than the slotted holders for the patches. A set of various sizes will last forever, and you might find you use more than one size on the same bore depending on the patch cut and material. They make a much tighter fit for the patch.

[SkWaShDeM]

bore snakes -- greatest invention since smokeless powder

I'll second that they're great to have around. Especially for mid-session cleanings at the range.

[Guest supergus]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate it!

[Guest bkelm18]

I use RemOil, a rag, and some BoreSnakes. Works just right for me.

[Guest HexHead]

I just use a bore snake with Hopps #9 and Hopps oil.

[towerclimber37]

All good info. Make sure you didn't miss this:

The Dewey rods are great. The only thing I'd add, I like the brass jags with the sharp tips much better than the slotted holders for the patches. A set of various sizes will last forever, and you might find you use more than one size on the same bore depending on the patch cut and material. They make a much tighter fit for the patch.

the doc has the right of it when it comes to jags.

bore snakes work great for cleaning..but if you can get a jag in there with a patch, the tight fit you get is the best thing in the world for getting out residue and copper that's accumulated in the grooves.

I know quite a few military shooters that use fiberglass rods ( they won't scar the bore)with jags because it gets their bores the cleanest.

other than that, when it comes to solvents, its either military bore cleaner (rbc) or hoppes #9

that stuff is just good.

other than that, oil lightly then run a clean patch through and you're good to go!

[Guest gcrookston]

I have jags for 223 and 300, which I used in favor of the patch eyelit holder for calibers 22, 9mm, 38, 223, 308, 300wm. I used the eyelit for .45 with patches I cut myself from old T-shirts in a triangle shape and rapped around. Since I found bore snakes, my rods only run brushes, except when I'm using Sweats 7.62. You can't leave it in the bore too long as it will etch the steel

My own collection of guns get cleaned on a regular basis, but I bet I spend 80% of my cleaning time on new acquisitions.

I believe a gun should only be field stripped every 500 rounds or so (some more often, some less often -- I field strip my M1a once every 5,000 rounds, my Model 41 every 500, my hk 9 series and ARs after every range session, for examples). But the bore, chamber and breach face should be tended to after every session, and sometimes during a session, depending on the weapon and the accuracy level I'm trying for.

I don't believe a weapon ever needs to be completely stripped unless there exists a malfunction due to breakage and VERY RARELY fouling. For example, completely stripped my 226 @ 10,000 rounds to replace all the springs for preventive maintenance. It has over 20,000 rounds through it now and has never been more than field stripped once every couple thousand rounds.

The reason for this is a report I read some years ago concerning the USMC. During the time period examined (1980's), more weapons were cleaned out of service, than actually shot out of service. Seems the Marines had this habit of everytime they had a break they'd break down their weapons and clean them. The wear and tear resulting from the dissambly and assembly of weapons is not to be under estimated.

Edited February 3, 2008 by gcrookston

[towerclimber37]

thanks for that post G..and you're so right!

[Guest HogMan]

I use Maytag washer and dryer, then dip in STP oil treatment and hang on tree limb to drip dry.

[Guest gcrookston]

I use Maytag washer and dryer, then dip in STP oil treatment and hang on tree limb to drip dry.

I once had a Ruger Old Army in stainless steel, and I did clean it in the dishwasher... pots and pans cycle

[strickj]

I have a kit from wally-world thats comes in a wood case.its has everyting i need to clean all me guns.when one thing is used up i just replace that single item.i love this case.it keeps everything together and organized.as far as oil i usually use remiol

I My only thing is I wish there was something that lasted a little longer than Rem Oil.. it seems to dry up rather quickly. .

it does seem to dry up quickly because it absorbs into the metal,but seems to last though.

[Guest DrBoomBoom]

For lube, I use Breakfree CLP all the time. In the summer, going to the range I'll put a drop of Remoil on each rail. In the winter I put a little white lithium grease on the rails. The Remoil is a lot lighter than Breakfree CLP. They both leave a film, but the Remoil seems to evaporate quicker, so when I do a quick deep clean (take off the grips and spray the insides with brake cleaner), I'll spray inside with Remoil and let it dry a bit before putting the grips back on.

[Guest supergus]

Will it hurt the SS finish if I get Hoppe's #9 on it? Here's what I was thinking. Field strip, spray everything with Hoppe's #9, barrel brush down the barrel, brass brushes for other areas, spray everything with brake cleaner or other non residue cleaner, then oil the barrel and entire gun with a LIGHT coat of oil, and a little teflon grease in on the rails. Any thoughts?

[Mike.357]

avoid brass brushes as much as possible. They are better than steel brushes though. I only use a brush in the bore every once in a while. Use whatever liquid bore cleaner you have by applying it and letting it sit for a while. Give it a chance to do its thing.

Remember more guns have been damaged by over cleaning them than by undercleaning them.

[Rightwinger]

I have a kit from wally-world thats comes in a wood case.its has everyting i need to clean all me guns.when one thing is used up i just replace that single item.i love this case.it keeps everything together and organized.as far as oil i usually use remiol

it does seem to dry up quickly because it absorbs into the metal,but seems to last though.

Guys, you gotta try Kroil ! Locally made since 1939, smells a little funny, is red going on but will clean and lube with the best of them. I use Sweets when I see copper fouling, then mop em down with Kroil. Fantastic stuff.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

Available on midway and direct from Kano Labs.

[Guest Big Mike]

Anyone out there know where I can get some surplus genuine GI gun oil, maybe a quart can? That stuff is the bomb! I just used the last of mine that I picked up at a gun show years ago. Thanks

[DWARREN123]

Most new handguns come with a plastic rod and a bore brush these days.

Check out the OTIS pistol kits, more expensive but very nice and they work very well. Also you can find some cleaning kits that that have a larger handle and everything fits inside the handle, usually caliber specific.

So many choices, so little room (money).

[towerclimber37]

Anyone out there know where I can get some surplus genuine GI gun oil, maybe a quart can? That stuff is the bomb! I just used the last of mine that I picked up at a gun show years ago. Thanks

I don't know about the green can/bottle that it comes in, but you can get CLP off the shelf at most gun stores.

its the same thing, just a different container...I guess if you really liked the container you could pour it back into it..

[Rightwinger]

Not to knock what has been posted but if you want to keep your quality firearms in quality condition, use the solvents and cleaners listed previously per the instructions (especially the copper solvents, they must be used sparingly and removed to prevent damage to bore and barrel) but most importantly, use a coated cleaning rod! Sinclair sells the best stuff but there are plenty of cheaper versions out there. The cheaper ones will start to loose their protective coating after a while but still better than metal to metal contact knicking your rifling.

As stated previously, the best cleaning solution is use patches as tight as you can get them in the bore with a good solvent then oil, metal brushes should only be used to remove heavy fouling.