screw removal ideas

[Mike.357]

Okay, So i have been shooting the 1858 and it shoot great, lots of fun.

I go to break the gun down for proper cleaning and the sear spring screw will not back out. No amount of force I have applied will cause movement.

I have tried heat and oil. No luck. I called where I bought it from to see if there was some dumb trick I am missing. I mean it is a simple screw!!

They confirmed that no lock tight should have been applied in manufacture.

They are shipping me another screw as I am now assuming the only way to get it out is to drill it. If I keep on torquing it the head is going to strip.

Anyone have a bright idea?

How about freezing it?

[Marswolf]

How about just leaving it alone? If it's not broken, don't fix it.

[Mike.357]

I normally would agree Mars. But my big concern is corrosion of parts from the black powder I shot and now the Pyrodex I am using.

In the booklet that EMF put in with the pistol the second step in cleaning is to completely break the gun down for cleaning. And that is how I always did it with my other BP revolver.

As it is now I used scalding hot water and brushed what I could reach, dried the gun with heat and then oiled the crap out of the inner springs and stuff.

Did you all know black powder is very hard to get nowdays since 9-11. but on the bright side the Pyrodex worked just as well and is supposedly a cleaner powder.

So anyways, what about my screw?

[Marswolf]

Mike, the people I've known with an 1858 did the "proper" cleaning two or three times and then decided they would just rather buy another gun every 10 years rather than fool with the PITA cleaning.

I had my 3-band Enfield for 15 years or so before the hammer spring finally broke. I think the part was a couple of bucks. I probably broke the lock down three or four times during that period.

You are probably more likely to destroy something by following the manufacturer's instructions than just giving it a wet brushing and oiling.

Black powder residue is mostly salts. They need a polarized solvent (water) to dissolve them. In my experience, getting everything scrupulously clean on a BP rifle or revolver just isn't necessary.

My reenactment group had to start buying the powder directly. I'm looking at a can of FFg right now that came from that source. I probably have another pound or two in my BP shooter kit.

If you are interested in an Enfield, bullet mold and melt pot, some caps etc, drop me a PM. I haven't used them in almost three years. Silly to have them sitting around in my closet.

I'm doing house cleaning around here.

[Im Neero]

You didn't mention cursing at it. Try that.

[Marswolf]

I used to carry my cordless drill, a bunch of bits and a tap & die set to reenactments. Amazing how often I used them.

[molonlabetn]

chuck a driver bit into a power drill with variable resistance set on one of the lowest impact settings, and let the jarring force slowly loosen it.

[Guest Mugster]

What you need is one of these. You'll either get it or strip it out with this. Works great on stubborn stuff. They call it an impact driver. You hold it against the stop and hit it with a hammer. Works better taking stuff out than driving it in, imo.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P

[Marswolf]

Then you can buy the Sears stripped head screw remover ( yes, I have one).

Just leave it alone......

[andersmg]

What you need is one of these. You'll either get it or strip it out with this. Works great on stubborn stuff. They call it an impact driver. You hold it against the stop and hit it with a hammer. Works better taking stuff out than driving it in, imo.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P

+1, this is what I would try also, I have used one of these on lots of screws that would not otherwise come loose.

[Mike.357]

I don't know how well that impact driver would work. In theory I can see it working but in practice It may be too hard on the frame of the gun.

You all may well know but this sear spring screw is on the bottom of the gun, about an inch or so in front of the trigger. I do not think pounding on the frame of the gun with a hammer would make matters better. The drill MOTN describes would be better if'n I had one.

If worst come to worst I can return the gun to EMF and they said they would fix it.

I am leaning to following Mars advice.

Nero I cursed it hard, did not help.

[molonlabetn]

Most drills have a variable intensity ring ranging from 1-10 plus the full drill power. I'd loan you my cordless, but that'd be a bit of a drive on short notice.

[NuTcAsE]

Most drills have a variable intensity ring ranging from 1-10 plus the full drill power. I'd loan you my cordless, but that'd be a bit of a drive on short notice.

And you run a greater risk of stripping the head. You can also try a screw driver and a hammer. But as hard of a time you're having, sounds like it may be cross threaded in which case you'll have to tap it any way. I'd take Mars's advice and leave it be.

Cussin' does help though, sometimes it's like WD40, it has to soak in.

[Guest Rustyhogleg]

If soaking it and useing a screw driver while tapping on driver with a small hammer fails to back it out. and all else has failed. Use a left handed drill bit put gun in vise and bit in drill press. you can get left handed drill bits at most auto parts stores. I have found by center punching the screw and useing a bit that is smaller then screw as to not cut the threads. most of the time the heat of the bit cutting into screw will break it free and the bit will back the screw out if useing a drill press use a light touch & watch for signs of screw trying to back out. thus the reason to use a left handed drill bit they cost $$ but worth there waight in gold. Good luck

[Guest Centennial]

Try some Kroil on the screw. It will penetrate into the threads and will likely loosen the screw. Every gun owner/shooter needs a can of Kroil on the cleaning bench.

[Guest colrmccoll]

I am not familiar with the position of this particular screw but both heat and cold can work.

Freeze the part, once throughly cold, use the impact while backing out with a screwdriver method. The cold may move the metal enough to break it free.

Likewise , with heat. You can use a soldering iron to put the heat where you want it. If possible, a propane torch around the screw will work. You want to heat the surrounding area to expand it. Use the impact with screwdriver method for removal.

[Guest Rustyhogleg]

Try some Kroil on the screw. It will penetrate into the threads and will likely loosen the screw. Every gun owner/shooter needs a can of Kroil on the cleaning bench.

Kroil is good stuff no dought. There is some new Penetrating Solvent on the market we here at TVA started to use seems to work better then Kroil it is made by " CRC " and is called " Knock'er Loose " and comes in a 13 oz can. I have used it on my 1948 farmall tractor that has been setting in a fence row for more years then I am old and after some soak time the bolts come out with out a strain. Web sight is [ www.crcindustries.com } and can be used with food processing equipment case you want to lube your meat grinder at home.

[Marswolf]

I used CRC-556 for years to loosen parts. Very good stuff. But Kroil is also good. Made around Nashville as I recall.

[Mike.357]

Well between cussin' and another dose of penetrant I finally got the screw out. I think the key ingrediant was some blood. I have no clue how but I cut the knuckle on the base of my thumb. I should have known that busting a knuckle was the key.

Anyway I am good to go now!

Thanks for all the advice and encouragement.

[towerclimber37]

Well between cussin' and another dose of penetrant I finally got the screw out. I think the key ingrediant was some blood. I have no clue how but I cut the knuckle on the base of my thumb. I should have known that busting a knuckle was the key.

Anyway I am good to go now!

Thanks for all the advice and encouragement.

hahahahahah! your pistol needed to know you loved it THAT much. thats all! anyone who says that weapons don't have a personality never got to know one on an intimate level...