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Muzzleloader Suggestions


Guest clutepc

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Posted

I'm thinking about trying a Muzzleloader this year,

This is my 2nd season and I normally bow hunt but a Muzzleloader seems like another challenge.

I've been looking at the CVA Optima, just curious what different models people were using.

I'm not planning on using a scope since I've always liked shooting with the standard sights.

Any suggestions or info you can give would be appreciated.

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Posted

Go old. Patched round ball is the way forward!

To be honest, most modern inlines are on-par with centrefires as far as power & range go (upto a point) & you'll not really notice any difference between a .50 inline & the likes of a .30-30 upto 100yds

If you fee like a challenge more on par with bowhunting, try a patched roundball out of a sidelock. For the money (if this is the way you feel you'd like to go) a Lyman Great Plains Rifle is about the best bang-for-the-buck rifle out there. In either .50 or .54 (I have one of each barrel) you can accurately take deer out to 100-125yds, however, much like tuning your bow to the arrow, every single sidelock is different. The fun is in finding out exactly what powder charge/ball diameter/patch thickness combination works best for your gun. Believe it or not, you don't need 150gn of Pyrodex to kill a deer (as the TV shows would have you believe) Anywhere upwards from 50gn will get it done cleanly & well. The key to good frontstuffer hunting is the same as bowhunting, that is; Getting in close & being pinpoint accurate with your shot. A roundball (contrary to belief) can be outstandingly precise. Here's one of my work-up targets.......

targets54005.jpg

That's a 1-¼" 5 shot group out of a barrel that I was in the process of shooting in (If memory serves they were shots 70-75) & I'm a long, long way from being a great shot! Now the barrel has had 200+ shots the group has shrunk to one ragged hole with the same load combo.

If you ever fancy trying out my GPR in both .50 & .54 fell free to PM me & we can go shoot somewhere! Be warned though, the black stuff's addicting!

Posted

I have a CVA Wolf. I bought it from Wal Mart a few years ago. It was less than $100 at the time. I was going to see how it shot and get rid of it. I still have it. I love it! It has a good trigger, it's very easy to clean, and with PowerBelt bullets and 2-50 grain 777 powder pellets, it will shoot 1 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards. I like the fact that it breaks down like a single shot shotgun, giving you unrestricted access to the bore. I also like the fact it takes shotgun primers instead of caps. I mounted a scope on mine, but it came with pretty good glowing hi-vis sights. It ain't a pretty rifle, but it does everything I want a muzzleloader to do well, and it didn't break the bank. I've killed several deer with it, and I'm taking it this year.

Wolf 209 Magnum Break-Action:: CVA

Before it, I used a Thompson Renegade. It is a well made muzzleloader with traditional looks, but it was a pain in the butt to clean.

Posted

To me CVA has come a long ways in making muzzleloaders, they are inexpensive and shoot just as accurate as the more expensive ones. You may not have all the fancy new features but you will have a good smoke pole.

Posted

I have a CVA Appollo in 50 cal., a hand built .36 Kentucky longrifle for squirrel hunting, and a .50 cal Kentucky longrifle for deer hunting. Both Kentucky rifles are flintlock and was built by me. I love them and hunt with them all the time! There are plenty of options out there, and everyone on here has given good advice. The hardest part is choosing which rifle to buy/build!

Posted

I went with a CVA Optima Magnum.

If I understand correctly they are all Magnums now which basically just allows you to shoot more powder with a heavier grain bullet?

I'm planning on starting with 100 grains of the Triple Seven Pellets and the Powerbelt 245 bullet.

I hear that each gun is different and they all seem to have a combination they like so it should interesting figuring out what that is..

Now my problem is finding a place to shoot because I don't know anyone with any land.

Is the TWRA Stones River Range ok with Muzzleloaders? I've never shot there but I know they have a lot of rules so I just thought it best to ask.

Posted (edited)
The 295 grain Powerbelts shoot better in mine than the 245 grains. I expect each muzzleloader will be different, however.

I'm probably going to try those to, I wish I could buy a pack with the different grains bullets with about 10 each to shoot.

How much powder do you normally shoot with the 295's?

I noticed some Powerbelts have the plastic tip and some just have the normal hollow point, do you see a difference there?

I think the 295 are just the normal hollow points.

**I looked at them again, I see that they are the Aero Tip bullets with the plastic on the end.

Edited by clutepc
Posted
Not sure which end of Nashville you are on, but the Montgomery County shooting complex is nice and ML friendly.

I'm in south Nashville so that one is a road trip for me, looks like it's going to be the Stones River range.

I've never shot a Muzzleloader so I'm sure if I have any questions someone there can help.

Posted

I personaly use 80gr of 3f black powder with my powerbelts in my CVA, and 80 gr of 3fin my .50 cal flintlock with round ball. It all works great for me!

Posted
How much powder do you normally shoot with the 295's?

Two 50 grain 777 Pellets. I think my CVA is rated for three, but two shoots a good group.

Posted

Is there a big difference in Hollow Points compared to the Aero Tips?

My shots will be under a 75 yards being I'm not using a scope.

Posted (edited)

I may be wrong on this but I think the Aero Tip is a hollow point with the plastic tip in it. Just the same bullet with a aerodinamic tip. I've got a CVA Staghorn inline that I bought for a hundred bucks. It shoots great with 90 gr. Triple 7 and a 350 gr. Maxi-Hunter. I've also got a old T/C New Englander .50

Edited by roverboy
Posted
I've never shot a Muzzleloader

I would suggest to you that a must for any muzzleloader shooter is to thoroughly clean it as soon as possible. If you don't, you'll find a red muzzleloader in your cabinet the next time you want to shoot it.

  • 5 weeks later...
Guest clutepc
Posted

Thanks for the cleaning suggestion, I always try to clean all my guns the same day after shooting them. Something my dad taught us when we were kids. So It became a habit.

I ended up getting together with a friend and going to a Farm in White House and we spent some time shooting and getting our Muzzleloaders sighed in.

Mine did really well with 100gr of 777 and the 245 gr PowerBelt Hollow points.

Only took up a few shots to get it on, then I spent time shooting it and just getting use to it.

My friend was using a sabot bullet and couldn't get it hitting worth anything,

He his sights back to where he started, then shot one of his bullets, it ended hitting far right of the target.

Then I had him shoot one of my powerbelts, what a difference, ended up being just shy of dead center.

So he raised his sights a little and took it out to 100, again just a little off center.

Not sure what the issue what but his gun liked the PowerbBelts better than the Sabots

Posted

I'm thinking about buying a new,year old, CVA Optima Elite. It's a .50 caliber and also comes with a .243 barrel all for $399. That's a little more than I was wanting to spend and I really don't have any great desire to own a .243 ... but it also comes with the extra barrel which is hard to pass up.

Is this a good deal or not?

Guest clutepc
Posted
I'm thinking about buying a new,year old, CVA Optima Elite. It's a .50 caliber and also comes with a .243 barrel all for $399. That's a little more than I was wanting to spend and I really don't have any great desire to own a .243 ... but it also comes with the extra barrel which is hard to pass up.

Is this a good deal or not?

I would say it is but if your not going to use the 243 then myself I would spend the money on a cheaper model and use the extra money to by powder and bullets.

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