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Gorilla Glue?


Guest countryfirecracker

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guess i will put in my 2 cents. my neighbor is a carpenter. he uses a product similar to liquid nails from the local hardware. it says and the tube will even bond wet plywood and it does. wish i had the name of it but just read the directions on the tube it fits a regular caulking gun. it even glued the worn out grips on my 4 wheeler for over a year. i had already tried all of the mentioned glues.

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Guest countryfirecracker
guess i will put in my 2 cents. my neighbor is a carpenter. he uses a product similar to liquid nails from the local hardware. it says and the tube will even bond wet plywood and it does. wish i had the name of it but just read the directions on the tube it fits a regular caulking gun. it even glued the worn out grips on my 4 wheeler for over a year. i had already tried all of the mentioned glues.

Will you get back with me on the name?

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Guest Lester Weevils

There are many fine adhesives for various tasks. IMO aliphatic glues like Titebond are USUALLY optimal for cabinet-making kind of tasks. But in certain situations maybe some other glue would work better even on a wood-to-wood bond.

The various liquid nails adhesives are fabulous for house or deck-building. Wood fences. Interior trim. Attaching various wall coverings or foam sheeting. Where the clamping is just from pressure of nails or screws, and the mess gets hid back behind the exterior surfaces so you never see the mess. It fills gaps and hold great.

Some jobs just cry out for contact cement and nothing else will do.

2 part epoxy will do some things nothing else will do well. A variant of 2 part epoxy is 'home repair putty' which is a 2 part formulation very similar to automobile bondo. It can be very strong and can fill gaps in rotted wood or whatever.

Silicone caulk sometimes makes a good glue. As does various polyurethane or latex caulks. If you have a few pieces of broken concrete, brick, or stucco that need gluing back in place, polyurethane concrete caulk is fabulous where a lot of other glues can be pretty useless.

One really excellent general-duty adhesive for many purposes is the Ace hardware brand "Ultra Clear High Tech Sealant". There is another brand name of the stuff I can't recall right now that can be found at Home Depot, but I think the Ace brand might be a little better. It is a 50 year clear sealant but it isn't silicone. Silicone cures from water or water vapor, and the Ace Ultra Clear is petroleum distillate based and smells something like contact cement. It will shrink a little if used as a caulk, so it is good to lay it on pretty heavy when caulking. But it makes a fabulous sticky glue. It will stick foam to foam and the foam will tear before the glue lets go. I've used it to glue in tight household wood trim, because it holds as good or better than liquid nails, but it is clear and doesn't look so bad if you accidentally make a mess. Before it sets, you can clean up residue with isopropyl alcohol-- the alcohol instantly takes all the 'sticky' away from spillage, and it just rolls off in little balls and cleans up great.

The "Ultra Clear" will glue leather shoes and hold as good as stitches. I've made minor leather shoe repairs-- Just glom some Ultra Clear in the gap where stitches have let go, clamp for 24 hours with a clothespin type clamp, and it holds the leather together as good as stitches.

For a minor repair on a cedar chest, if there was maybe a dado cut in the old joint with a lot of old hide glue to clean out, maybe I'd try "Ultra Clear" rather than try to remove all the old hide glue from the joint surfaces. Or 2 part epoxy. Epoxy squeezout would be more hassle to clean up and keep off the outside surfaces.

I'm not expert on any of that. Just opinions from personal experience.

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