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Tread life on your tires??Ok


titan14

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Thanks eastenn....that helps A LOT!...and yeah...i looked up the tires too....i searched (on tirerack) by vehicle....it didnt show the AT's....i search the tire itself...and sure enough....there it is...same size as mine.

I guess I'll see what the local dealers can get them for...

thanks for all the input guys!

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I stated on the other thread that I got over a 100k closer to 120K with michlens on a chevy 2500. Honestly I wouldn't believe me ethier. I used nitrogen and it pretty much all interstate driving. I got it with 19K and a set of high end "bridgestones I think" that lasted 20 to 30K I replaced with the michelins. I commuted daily on I-40 204 miles and trust me the brakes weren't used. I have 235k on the orginal brakes. I'm not doing the "Cookeville turnaround" any more so this set is looking like they will get less mileage. I have had good luck with the michelin

Edited by laktrash
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Guest 70below

Back when I was in college, I had a '84 Toyota 4x4 with BFG AT TA's and got 65K on them before I sold the truck, they still looked like new. It wasn't used gently, but it was a very light truck.

I had a set of Kumho's on a Trans Am I used to have, and those were the best lasting sports tires I've ever had, I don't remember the mileage, but it was 50K plus of burnouts. They were a little hard though, didn't do well on wet.

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I stated on the other thread that I got over a 100k closer to 120K with michlens on a chevy 2500. Honestly I wouldn't believe me ethier. I used nitrogen and it pretty much all interstate driving. I got it with 19K and a set of high end "bridgestones I think" that lasted 20 to 30K I replaced with the michelins. I commuted daily on I-40 204 miles and trust me the brakes weren't used. I have 235k on the orginal brakes. I'm not doing the "Cookeville turnaround" any more so this set is looking like they will get less mileage. I have had good luck with the michelin

Do you think the nitrogen had anything to do with it? I'm just curious. I've not really heard

one way or the other. I thought it might have been a gimmick. May be something to it, though.

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Do you think the nitrogen had anything to do with it? I'm just curious. I've not really heard

one way or the other. I thought it might have been a gimmick. May be something to it, though.

Isn't the benefit of nitrogen that it is less prone to pressure variances (under inflated tires) which are the leading cause of tire wear and tire failure?

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That may be so. I don't know. Could be that, but I wondered why 20% more

nitrogen makes the difference. It may have something to do with getting the

CO2 and O2 out that makes the difference. Hey! Who's that Chemistry Prof

around here? Need some help:D

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That may be so. I don't know. Could be that, but I wondered why 20% more

nitrogen makes the difference. It may have something to do with getting the

CO2 and O2 out that makes the difference. Hey! Who's that Chemistry Prof

around here? Need some help:D

I'm no chem prof, but you hit the nail on the head. Air is already 78% nitrogen. The extra nitrogen does little aside from replacing more oxygen and water vapor. They are the real problem.

Water vapor and oxygen molecules are smaller than nitrogen molecules. Water vapor (1% of the air) permeates out of the tire 250X faster than nitrogen & oxygen (21% of the air) permeates 3X - 4X faster than nitrogen.

Having 20% more nitrogen means tire pressure stays up more giving you more mileage. Tires lose air slowly, so by time we check them and add air, the damage is done. If we all checked & topped off our pressure weekly, we'd see noticeable increase in tire life with all other things being equal.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I'm no chem prof, but you hit the nail on the head. Air is already 78% nitrogen. The extra nitrogen does little aside from replacing more oxygen and water vapor. They are the real problem.

Water vapor and oxygen molecules are smaller than nitrogen molecules. Water vapor (1% of the air) permeates out of the tire 250X faster than nitrogen & oxygen (21% of the air) permeates 3X - 4X faster than nitrogen.

Having 20% more nitrogen means tire pressure stays up more giving you more mileage. Tires lose air slowly, so by time we check them and add air, the damage is done. If we all checked & topped off our pressure weekly, we'd see noticeable increase in tire life with all other things being equal.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't think about that nasty stuff that loves to accumulate in air compressor tanks.

That makes sense.

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Guest KimberChick

I got about 30k out of a set of Falken Ziex912s, but that was with an entire year's worth of autocrossing on them. I just put a set of Ziex 512s on probably 8 months ago. Expect to see more mileage out of these as I'm not racing on them. These are great tires, but you'll lose wet traction long before the tread is gone. The 912s weren't in bad shape save feathering at the edges, I was just starting to hydroplane more and more.

Longest tire life, Firestone Affinitys on a Saturn. I think they were still good until I replaced them around 70k miles or so. OEM.

Shortest life, 17-ish miles on a Lexus IS F. Glad I didn't have to pay for those, they had a stack ready for us at the track.

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nitrogen ?

I thought it was gimmick but for the money "what the hey" I do think it gave firm feel and better ride. Tire mileage I don't know, but I did get good wear. Fuel consumption couldn't tell. Could it have been my imagination ? Maybe you know how a new muffler makes your car ride better. I wasted 20 bucks on alot worse. I never seem to have to add tire pressure

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Air pressure, regular rotations, and driving style are the big 3 for tire life.

Consider the air pressure value on the sticker in the door jamb the minimum and the air pressure value on the side wall of the tire the maximum. Set your air pressure somewhere inbetween. Generally, higher air pressure will help the tire run cooler and last longer.

The sole benefit of the nitrogen fill is the fact that it's DRY. Regular compressed air has a lot of water in it. A typical water separater on your compressor will get most of it out. The water combined with oxygen is what causes the degradation, the difference in pressure change due to temperature is minimal. Using dry air is 95% of the difference. Racers use bottled N2 because (1) bottles don't require power cords and are smaller than a big compressor; and (2) it's easy to predict the air pressure change due to temp because it's dry. For the average Joe's car, it's a waste of money.

Regular rotations are especially important for trucks due to the large front/rear weight bias.

Give Morgan Tire in Kingsport a call. I picked out what I wanted on TireRack, called them and got them installed with lifetime balance and rotation for about the same cost as just the tires from TireRack. I used to live in Church Hill too... *sigh* wish I still did...

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ALL my vehicles have Nitrogen in the tires...yeah the wear is better....blah blah blah....the MAIN reason i run Nitrogen....I dont have to see that DAMN tire pressure light every other week!!!!

Are you talking about a on board pressure monitoring system? If so and it made that much of a difference I guess that shows it works.

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Are you talking about a on board pressure monitoring system? If so and it made that much of a difference I guess that shows it works.
That is exactly what I'm talking about...the 3 I own now and the two before that...my TPS light never comes on anymore....
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I average about 10k on my tires. When I was running stock size I would get more. Once I changed to a larger diameter wheel and put performance tires on, longevity dropped.

I don't play nice with them.

My Celica is on her seventh set of tires in ten years.

I am trying a new brand out now, they are not a Ultra High Performance Tire like I normally run, but they are available locally, unlike my previous set. I am around 5k on them and they still look new. So they might be decent. They aren't as grippy though.

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2000 ford explorer oem goodyear wranglers 75000, on my second set @ 141000 at least half tread left.

2003 ford ranger oem goodyears 35000, firestone destinations @101000 more than half tread left.

2007 toyota matrix oem goodyears 18000, bridgestone insignias @ 80000 more than half tread left.

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275/70-18 285/65-18 305/65-18

titan, you may well know how to read tire sizes but sometimes it still helps to convert the sizes into something a little more familiar, such as inches. I looked up the BFG AT's and looks like they are offered in the above sizes.

You can take the first number, the width, and divide it by 25.4 to get it in inches, then the 2nd number is the height of the tire as a percentage of the width.

275 divided by 25.4 = 10.83" wide

10.83*0.70 = 7.58" tall

So, with you are currently running almost an 11" wide tire with a diameter of 18+7.58+7.58 = 33.16"

285/65-18 would be 11.22" wide and 32.58" diameter. So it would actually not be as tall as what you are running just because the sidewall ratio isn't as large.

305/65-18 would be 12.0" wide and 33.62" diameter. That size wouldn't be much taller than what you already have, and to see if it would rub turn your wheels all the way in both directions and measure to your inner fenders to see how much room you have left now.

My opinion, I wouldn't just add width without adding height because that will just hurt your fuel mileage anyways.

Hey eastenn....do you think 325/60's will fit?...they are Nitto Grappler AT's...

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