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New Plastic Pistol


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Looks great. They have the medium and large backstraps (think they're both in stock) for real cheap. The beavertail is kinda obnoxious looking, but may help with recoil management. I'll have to shoot mine some. It's 3-4 ounces lighter than my CZ, and maybe a little more for my other two S&W's, so I expect it to be a little snappier.

One thing's for sure... I probably won't make it thru the weekend without ordering the action parts. I'm all about great triggers. Since all my other pistols are DA/SA except the pocket rocket, the M&P needs some help.

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Apextactical.com

Randy is a good guy. The DCAEK is one of the nicest installations I've done on a pistol. A very good upgrade.

Mike

Ordered from Larry Land. Should see it Wednesday. Are the instructions pretty decent, or do I need to drag up some videos? I downloaded the lawyer tainted manual. Guess we're to stoopid to need a schematic.

Also ordered an Uplula that's been sitting on my wish list for awhile.

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Got four real reliable 9's now. Just thought I should get one plastic one to see what the fuss was about. I like the M&P better than the Glock, even tho it's a bigger pain in the butt to strip.

I don't understand theis statement, You pull the slide back, lock it, flip the take down lever, and push the disconnect (i use a pen, little screw driver. Finger is just too big). and release the slide. I never liked the "pull the trigger" to take down stuff.

Put the Apex sear and fpb in there and you will love that M&P 9. Those parts make the trigger butter smooth.

+1000

Apextactical.com

Randy is a good guy. The DCAEK is one of the nicest installations I've done on a pistol. A very good upgrade.

Mike

Randy is truely a stand up guy.

So, does the DCAEK kit cover everything?

Yes

Ordered from Larry Land. Should see it Wednesday. Are the instructions pretty decent, or do I need to drag up some videos? I downloaded the lawyer tainted manual. Guess we're to stoopid to need a schematic.

Also ordered an Uplula that's been sitting on my wish list for awhile.

Watch the videos, they do make it easier.

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I don't understand theis statement, You pull the slide back, lock it, flip the take down lever, and push the disconnect (i use a pen, little screw driver. Finger is just too big). and release the slide. I never liked the "pull the trigger" to take down stuff.

Yep. I said that after reading the instructions, but before I had actually done it. Even tho you need something to move the sear release, it's easier than my other pistols, especially since the tool is on board if you don't have something else handy.

BTW... I asked about the instructions because I've replaced action parts on several of my guns. Sometimes the instructions are great, and sometimes they really suck.

Edited by mikegideon
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Yep. I said that after reading the instructions, but before I had actually done it. Even tho you need something to move the sear release, it's easier than my other pistols, especially since the tool is on board if you don't have something else handy.

BTW... I asked about the instructions because I've replaced action parts on several of my guns. Sometimes the instructions are great, and sometimes they really suck.

I never looked at the inst. I used the videos, and I had never even attempted this before. I did it on all 4 of my M&P's. That being said I did not get that kit. I got the sear and the FPB.

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I never looked at the inst. I used the videos, and I had never even attempted this before. I did it on all 4 of my M&P's. That being said I did not get that kit. I got the sear and the FPB.

The springs in the kit make the reset very nice. It is much more forceful than the stock spring.

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Got the kit, and did the first pass through the videos. Looks like they included the slave pin for the trigger spring install. I was dreading having to drag something up.

Just finished assembling an AR stripped lower last night, so I'm waiting for my tedium tolerance level to come back. I'll probably do it tonight. I'm convinced it's really going to improve the gun. Good videos

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Finally got around to sticking the APEX parts in. New sear and trigger spring were both a breeze. I'm having a helluva time moving the rear sight to install the safety plunger. It's the factory Novak sight. Do I just need to beat the hell out of it, or is there a trick?

BTW... the trigger is much better already.

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