More appliance help needed (Gas Stove)

[kb4ns]

Now it's my turn to beg for appliance assistance!

Last Thursday, the fine folks at the utility company saw fit to replace the gas meter on the side of my house while I wasn't home. I called MLGW (utility company) the next morning and they sent someone out. After pulling the lock off of the new meter, he came in and lit the burners on the stove (worked fine) and lit the pilot light on the hot water heater (better him than me - it's in the 600 degree attic and hard to get to).

Anyways, Monday night, for the first time since the gas meter being changed out, we decided to cook something in the oven. Low and behold, the oven won't heat up. I can see the glow in the bottom of the oven, but it's not getting hot.

Called MLGW back out (thinking there might be a pilot light in there or something). The guy that came out today said that either the valve that realeases the gas is stuck or the heating element that tells it to release the gas isn't getting warm enough. He told me that I'd have to call an appliance guy out. He said he can't see how them changing out the meter would cause a problem, but if the repair man said it was their fault, I could always file a claim with MLGW.

Now I've seen some strange coincidences in my day, but what are the odds of a random problem occuring with my oven at the exact same time that they change out the gas meter? If it's something that they caused, I want to call someone out so that I can get a reimbursement from MLGW. If it's not related, I want to go through my list of friends & family that might be able to help me so I can save as much money as possible (money is too tight right now!). Thoughts anyone?

[Guest db99wj]

Only had a gas stove while in college, cooked spaghetti O's and lit cig's off of it, that's about it. No help from me, that's one thing I haven't had to fix yet...

[kb4ns]

Nobody?

My wife wants me to hurry up and get it fixed, but I'd really like some input. Hate to pay a repair man out of my own pocket if it isn't something that was in some way caused by the utility company.

[Loon160T]

What brand/model stove is it?

I had a similar experience a few years ago with our local electric co-op. A subcontractor of theirs changed out a power pole less than 100 yards from our house and we lost two TVs and a VCR the same day. The co-op refused to accept responsibility or even acknowledge that they caused a surge so we ended up paying for replacements out of our own pocket (the value of the damaged equipment was under our home owners deductible).

[Loon160T]

Here's a couple of links that might help:

RANGE-STOVE-OVEN-ANSWERS-TO-COMMON-QUESTIONS

How to Repair a Gas Range

[kb4ns]

It's a Kenmore. I've looked but can't find a model number. I took a (lopsided) picture if it helps...

[kb4ns]

Here's a couple of links that might help:

RANGE-STOVE-OVEN-ANSWERS-TO-COMMON-QUESTIONS

How to Repair a Gas Range

Found this on one of those links that seems to address my issue-

There is a red glow in my oven, but it isn't heating. Why?

Most modern gas ovens and many broilers use a "glow-bar" style of igniter that glows red-hot to ignite the gas. If the igniter doesn't reach the proper temperature, the gas valve won't open. You may need to replace the igniter.

That's pretty much in line with what the utility company guy said. So that brings me back to the original question. Is there any way this could have been caused by the utility company? I don't mind paying to fix my own problems, but I pay the utility company a lot of money and if this is their fault, I want to make sure they get to pay for it.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

Call me over-cautious, but I'd hire someone gas-licensed to work on any part of the gas line or a gas appliance.

[kb4ns]

Call me over-cautious, but I'd hire someone gas-licensed to work on any part of the gas line or a gas appliance.

Probably not bad advice at all...

[Loon160T]

I'm not too fond of working around gas appliances either but, if you have an amp/ohm meter, here's another link with some things to try:

Oven/Range Troubleshooting (second row from bottom of list)

[kb4ns]

Well, I talked to a buddy who does HVAC and knows a lot more than me about these things. He's way too busy this time of year to even think about coming over to look at it (he's pretty much working 14 hour days in this 100+ heat). He gave me an idea of what to expect repair-wise ($200 to $250). That got me to looking at new ranges. It seems a basic gas range runs less than $300 at the major stores. That's all we need to get us through for a few years until we sell the house and it really isn't any different (features-wise) than the one we have now.

Now off to google to see if I can install a new gas range without blowing myself up!

Thanks for the input, guys.

[Guest jackdm3]

You WILL NOT blow your family up. Just make sure that if you install teflon instead of pipe dope, use the teflon rated for gas! And apply the tape in the correct direction, so when you screw it together you don't unravel the tape while threading. Get a small spray bottle with a strong ratio of dish liquid to water, turn on gas and spray all fittings for bubbles. When done, you'll look just like this:

[Rightwinger]

I'd say your ignitor gave up the ghost because of the heat cycling. It was okay because it was always on until they turned gas off and let it cool. Now that it's going again, won't reach the temp needed to open your gas valve. Get the cost on the ignitor and replace. Not tough as stated above. Just be cautious.

[Guest 6.8 AR]

I'd say your ignitor gave up the ghost because of the heat cycling. It was okay because it was always on until they turned gas off and let it cool. Now that it's going again, won't reach the temp needed to open your gas valve. Get the cost on the ignitor and replace. Not tough as stated above. Just be cautious.

Either that or the line may just need

to be purged. To do that you will need a

wrench to crack the line open until you

smell a slight gas odor. Tighten the line

back and, just so you feel better, air out

the area and turn on the appliance. you

may or may not need the yellow Teflon

tape. If it is a fitting that has a big nut

that holds two pieces of pipe together,

Teflon tape isn't needed because it goes

on threads. If it needs purging, that's all

you do. A slight rotten egg smell should

be enough to get the gas flow adequate

to light the appliance. Igniters are not

difficult and don't need the gas turned off

to replace. The gas valve won't open if

the igniter can't spark. they are designed

to spark until the gas valve opens and a

thermocouple turns off the igniter.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and my fingers!

[Guest jackdm3]

He's so right. Last time I flipped a house, they turned the meter on and off and on and when the A/C guys came over, they opened lines. I thought I'd have to replace the stove. I just turned all the eyes on and waited till gas smell, closed them, aired out the house a bit. Turned on one eye and it lit. Totally forgot that. Your unit looks to new to need replacing.

[kb4ns]

Ok, well I guess I'll get an appliance repair guy to come out instead of buying a new unit. 6.8, I really appreciate all the detailed advice, but gas & electricity are two things I don't like messing with!

[Guest 6.8 AR]

Ok, well I guess I'll get an appliance repair guy to come out instead of buying a new unit. 6.8, I really appreciate all the detailed advice, but gas & electricity are two things I don't like messing with!

Glad to help. It's not very difficult to do. Stand over the

guy and watch what he does. You will be amazed how

simple it is. I don't blame you for using a repairman, but

you won't have to the next time.

[enfield]

Gas dryers use an electric igniter also, and it's the first part that fails. I've replaced several. No igniter, no gas, no flame.

[peejman]

I spent a year in college working in the Maytag cooking appliances R&D lab. Ranges are quite simple. Don't sweat blowing your house up. While that potential does exist, a little common sense and good ventillation go a long way. We only almost blew the building up one time while I worked there....

As stated, step 1 is to purge the lines. Fire up all 4 top burners and run them on high until they all run steady for a minute or two.

What type of igniter do you have? By your description, I assume it's a ceramic glow plug. If it's glowing hot, it's working properly. There's a thermostat next to it that verifies it's hot before turning the gas on to the burner. You should be able to hear the valve click when it comes on and it should only take a few seconds for the igniter to get hot.

If the valve doesn't click, stick a voltmeter on the wires to the valve. If the voltage doesn't change when the igniter gets hot, the thermostat on the igniter is bad. If it does, the valve is bad.

The fasteners that hold the igniter on will be a PITA to remove. All the heat cycles ruins them. Replace with quality stainless steel fasteners. A little high-temp anti-seize helps too. Take the bottom out of the range so you can access the burner/ignitor, the screws that hold it in are probably under it, in the drawer.

[hardknox00001]

I spent a year in college working in the Maytag cooking appliances R&D lab. Ranges are quite simple. Don't sweat blowing your house up. While that potential does exist, a little common sense and good ventillation go a long way. We only almost blew the building up one time while I worked there....

As stated, step 1 is to purge the lines. Fire up all 4 top burners and run them on high until they all run steady for a minute or two.

What type of igniter do you have? By your description, I assume it's a ceramic glow plug. If it's glowing hot, it's working properly. There's a thermostat next to it that verifies it's hot before turning the gas on to the burner. You should be able to hear the valve click when it comes on and it should only take a few seconds for the igniter to get hot.

If the valve doesn't click, stick a voltmeter on the wires to the valve. If the voltage doesn't change when the igniter gets hot, the thermostat on the igniter is bad. If it does, the valve is bad.

The fasteners that hold the igniter on will be a PITA to remove. All the heat cycles ruins them. Replace with quality stainless steel fasteners. A little high-temp anti-seize helps too. Take the bottom out of the range so you can access the burner/ignitor, the screws that hold it in are probably under it, in the drawer.

This

[kb4ns]

I'd say your ignitor gave up the ghost...

You were right on the money, Rightwinger. The ignitor was glowing and hot, but apparently not hot enough to trip the valve. Got a good appliance guy to come out today and it was fixed for $125 plus tax (parts AND labor). Not bad considering when I looked on Sears' website, I think the ignitor alone for my model was about $80 (retail price, of course). If anyone in the Memphis area needs an appliance repair, I can't recommend Chris Appliance Co (901-262-9141) enough!

[ls-vtec]

Wish i would have saw this sooner kb i coulda fixed it for just the parts . if u have any more problems give me a shout i can help u out.

Edited August 7, 2010 by ls-vtec
Iphone typing is the devil