Ruger .22LR Reassembly Made Easy! (or at least easier)

[StPatrick]

I've got a MKIII that I love to shoot, but hate to clean, like most anyone who owns one as well. I had a reassembly issue that no amount of tapping, tilting, pounding, or swearing could fix, so I called Ruger customer service this afternoon. No techs were available at the time, but 30 minutes later, I got a call back.

My problem was this - after getting the bolt retaining pin inserted fully, when trying to rotate the mainspring assembly into place, it would catch, and then cam the bolt retaining pin out of place.

Here's how it was solved (and it worked like butter; I took it apart and reassembled a couple times just to prove it to myself):

1. With the barrel pointed straight down, push the hammer to full forward if it isn't there already.
   
2. Insert the bolt retaining pin fully; tap into place with the tool of your choice if required
   
3. Put your left hand in the "pay up, sucka" position, then place the gun upside down, barrel forward, in your palm with thumb near the trigger. Insert an empty magazine.
   
4. Using your thumb, pull the trigger 5 times, keeping the trigger pulled after the 5th. Do Not Release the Trigger!
   
5. Keeping your grip with the left hand, rotate the barrel to ~11:00.
   
6. Still maintaining your grip, use your right hand to grab the "rat tail" of the mainspring, and rotate it into position.
   
7. When the mainspring is home, give it a good hard press - if it rebounds 1/8" or so, life is good. If not, start over.
   
8. Use "rat tail" to lock mainspring in place; rack bolt a couple times to ensure function.
   

None of the videos from Ruger or YouTubers have the critical "pull trigger" step, and with tighter guns, this seems to be important. The Ruger tech assured me that improving their videos is in process, but until then, I hope this works for everyone.

[ZZRguy]

I cleaned mine yesterday,and reassembled it, pulled the the trigger with empty mag it and nothing. I took it apart and put it back a couple of more times and it would not do anything. I looked online and found pictures on how to assemble it and it said push the hammer forward, did that and got it back together and it still would not dry fire. I tried to take it apart again and now I can not get the mainspring housing out of the grip. If and when I get it fixed I am going to sell it when it needs to cleaned again if not before. I worked two hours last just trying to put it together.

[StPatrick]

I did that same thing, when my mainspring decided to drop right into place for no obvious reason, but the bolt would only go halfway back...I tried to pry it loose to no avail (using a screwdriver as a lever), then gave up. This afternoon, I pounded the barrel on a silicone pad on the kitchen table a couple times, and the assembly released. At that point, I called Ruger. I haven't tried to get their advice for removing a stuck mainspring assembly, and I don't know why the kitchen-table pounding worked. If these guns didn't shoot so well, I'd bet we would all give up.

[mav]

I cleaned mine yesterday,and reassembled it, pulled the the trigger with empty mag it and nothing. I took it apart and put it back a couple of more times and it would not do anything. I looked online and found pictures on how to assemble it and it said push the hammer forward, did that and got it back together and it still would not dry fire. I tried to take it apart again and now I can not get the mainspring housing out of the grip. If and when I get it fixed I am going to sell it when it needs to cleaned again if not before. I worked two hours last just trying to put it together.

Don't sell the gun. The Ruger Mark III is a fine shooter. I have the Mark III Hunter. Yes, the disassembly is a pain at first (it is for everyone), but once you do it a few times it is a piece of cake. I can now completely gut (further than a field strip) the Mark III where there is nothing left except the frame and have it put back together in a matter of a few minutes. A field strip and reassembly in less than 30 seconds. Just be patient. Here is my procedure:

1. Make sure the gun is empty.

2. With an empty magazine in the gun, pull back the slide and release the slide lock to allow the slide to move back into position.

3. Dry fire the gun (Did I say make sure the gun is empty?) Make sure you dry fire the gun before trying to opening the mainspring housing latch.

4. After dry firing, pull the mainspring housing latch.

5. Remove the housing from the gun.

6. Remove the magazine.

7. Remove the bolt. If the bolt doesn't slide out, look at the back of your gun and stick something in the area where the mainspring housing fits and push the hammer upwards. The hammer strust should be above the little bar. Point the gun upwards and remove the bolt. If it still doesn't come out check to make sure the hammer strut isn't catching.

8. Remove the barrel. (after you have done this enough, it just pops off very easy).

9. Clean your gun.

10. Reattach the barrel. Make sure it is fully seated and properly aligned.

11. Put the bolt back in.

12. Put the empty magazine back in the gun.

13. While pointing the pistol towards the ground, squeeze the trigger and push the hammer up with something so the hammer strut is above the little bar.

14. Once the hammer strut is above the little bar, put the mainspring housing back in but don't close the latch.

15. Point your gun towards the ceiling and push the mainspring housing back into place (you should feel a little bouncing or squeezing at the bottom of the latch)

16. Close the latch.

17. Pull the bolt back and hit the slide release.

18. Squeeze the trigger and dry fire.

19. If it fires, congratulations, you have cleaned and reassembled your Mark III.

See there, that wasn't so bad. lol. It reads more complicated than it is.

[mav]

II tried to take it apart again and now I can not get the mainspring housing out of the grip.

I forgot to mention one thing. That has happened to me a couple of times when I was first getting used to the Mark III. A pair of vice grips and knocking the sh*t out of the mainspring housing with a rubber mallet got it out for me. I was cringing with each hit, but didn't affect the gun. I would have never done it with a more expensive gun.

[eapking]

Thanks for the tip StPat. I'm still in no hurry to try it. But when I get inspired I'll try this.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

If and when I get it fixed I am going to sell it when it needs to cleaned again if not before. I worked two hours last just trying to put it together.

I don't have any trouble with the Mark II. It hardly ever takes more than an hour and 59 minutes to reassemble.

[Capbyrd]

One of the biggest hurdles for me is that my sear spring stop pin is bent and the hammer strut gets caught on it constantly. I don't know if anyone else has a problem with this but I just thought i would say something. The new pin is only 2 bucks but I am waiting until I have enough stuff to order to make the order worthwhile.

[mav]

One of the biggest hurdles for me is that my sear spring stop pin is bent and the hammer strut gets caught on it constantly. I don't know if anyone else has a problem with this but I just thought i would say something. The new pin is only 2 bucks but I am waiting until I have enough stuff to order to make the order worthwhile.

I had a problem with that. I called up Ruger and order two of them and two magazine disconnector springs. The total was like $11. Got it shipped via the post office and received it in a couple of days. If you shoot the gun regularly and need the spring, I would go ahead and order it. I wouldn't think they would have a problem shipping it out to you even if it is only $2. They were very nice when I called them.

[Steelharp]

I can't believe anyone actually takes them apart. All I've ever done to mine is run a bore snake through it, and clean the area I can get to with the bolt open. Runs like a champ.

[Capbyrd]

I had a problem with that. I called up Ruger and order two of them and two magazine disconnector springs. The total was like $11. Got it shipped via the post office and received it in a couple of days. If you shoot the gun regularly and need the spring, I would go ahead and order it. I wouldn't think they would have a problem shipping it out to you even if it is only $2. They were very nice when I called them.

Ruger has a 10 dollar minimum order but I was going to be combining this into a larger order from Midway.

[Guest The Highlander]

You mean you disassemble your Ruger? I don't get it. Why? Is it broken?

I've owned Mk II's and such for 30 years and I learned LONG ago to run a Boresnake through it, clean it with a toothbrush, lightly lube and start shooting again.

Now, every ten years, whether it needs it or not, I do drop in a recoil spring. Obviously, I have to take it apart to do that, and I have learned a great trick for the Mk II's...the trouble is that I forgot to change it out in 2000, and I've forgotten the trick since the last time I did it in 1990, so I probably will not be doing it in 2010 either I'm thinking.

These things just shoot, and shoot, and shoot, and shoot.........

[Capbyrd]

Some of us like to tinker!

[ZZRguy]

Don't sell the gun. The Ruger Mark III is a fine shooter. I have the Mark III Hunter. Yes, the disassembly is a pain at first (it is for everyone), but once you do it a few times it is a piece of cake. I can now completely gut (further than a field strip) the Mark III where there is nothing left except the frame and have it put back together in a matter of a few minutes. A field strip and reassembly in less than 30 seconds. Just be patient. Here is my procedure:

1. Make sure the gun is empty.

2. With an empty magazine in the gun, pull back the slide and release the slide lock to allow the slide to move back into position.

3. Dry fire the gun (Did I say make sure the gun is empty?) Make sure you dry fire the gun before trying to opening the mainspring housing latch.

4. After dry firing, pull the mainspring housing latch.

5. Remove the housing from the gun.

6. Remove the magazine.

7. Remove the bolt. If the bolt doesn't slide out, look at the back of your gun and stick something in the area where the mainspring housing fits and push the hammer upwards. The hammer strust should be above the little bar. Point the gun upwards and remove the bolt. If it still doesn't come out check to make sure the hammer strut isn't catching.

8. Remove the barrel. (after you have done this enough, it just pops off very easy).

9. Clean your gun.

10. Reattach the barrel. Make sure it is fully seated and properly aligned.

11. Put the bolt back in.

12. Put the empty magazine back in the gun.

13. While pointing the pistol towards the ground, squeeze the trigger and push the hammer up with something so the hammer strut is above the little bar.

14. Once the hammer strut is above the little bar, put the mainspring housing back in but don't close the latch.

15. Point your gun towards the ceiling and push the mainspring housing back into place (you should feel a little bouncing or squeezing at the bottom of the latch)

16. Close the latch.

17. Pull the bolt back and hit the slide release.

18. Squeeze the trigger and dry fire.

19. If it fires, congratulations, you have cleaned and reassembled your Mark III.

See there, that wasn't so bad. lol. It reads more complicated than it is.

Did all all of that that and it would not dry fire, now I can not get it apart.

[Capbyrd]

Did all all of that that and it would not dry fire, now I can not get it apart.

Will the bolt cycle fully or only about halfway? If it only moves about halfway, its because the hammer strut is caught on the sear spring stop pin. You have to be very careful to get the hammer strut in the right position.

Get a pair of pliers or vice grips and give the mainspring housing a bit of a tug and it will come apart. I can almost guarantee that you just need to line up the hammer strut.

[ZZRguy]

I can't believe anyone actually takes them apart. All I've ever done to mine is run a bore snake through it, and clean the area I can get to with the bolt open. Runs like a champ.

That is what I am going to do when I get it fixed.

[ZZRguy]

Will the bolt cycle fully or only about halfway? If it only moves about halfway, its because the hammer strut is caught on the sear spring stop pin. You have to be very careful to get the hammer strut in the right position.

Get a pair of pliers or vice grips and give the mainspring housing a bit of a tug and it will come apart. I can almost guarantee that you just need to line up the hammer strut.

I can pull the bolt back but I have to lightly push on it to make it go forward.

Edited July 28, 2010 by ZZRguy

[Capbyrd]

I'm not entirely sure then. It could still be that the hammer strut wasn't lined up. Wish you were closer. I could help you out.

[ZZRguy]

I'm not entirely sure then. It could still be that the hammer strut wasn't lined up. Wish you were closer. I could help you out.

I know Thanks for your help.

[ZZRguy]

I finally got it. I got the mainspring housing out the first try after I worked for a hour last night trying to get it out. My main problem was I did not get the hammer all the way forward I had to keep wriggling the bolt untill I was able to push the hammer all the way forward, after that it worked fine. Thanks for all the help.

[Capbyrd]

There you go. Its not really hard as long as you remember to make sure that everything falls into the right place.

[Mike.357]

I am not taking mine apart until it quits running. There is really no point in it other than being anal.

[mav]

I am not taking mine apart until it quits running. There is really no point in it other than being anal.

Or changing the trigger group. I did not like the trigger on my Mark III Hunter. I bought a Volquartzen accurizer adjustable trigger group for mine. It basically requires you to gut the pistol and put it all back together. It was a PITA at first to install it, but the nice thing was I got a better trigger and I got to see how all the parts function on the gun.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

Ya'll who just boresnake and clean off obvious grunge around the bolt-- Ain't doubting what you say, but my 10 year old Mark II slabside target runs pretty reliable when relatively clean, but it misfeeds a lot when dirty.

I'll run a patch of Hoppe's or Shooters Choice first thing after every trip, let it soak thru the rest of the cleaning, and boresnake out at the end, and the barrel insides look shiny and clean. Will swab out the bolt and innards where I can reach with a brush, plastic pick, and Q-tips. Lightly oil with CLP or Rem Oil on a Q-tip.

If it starts misfeeding a lot, sometimes it works to spray out the innards with Gun Scrubber then dribble a little CLP down to replace the lube. But have had to take it down either 2 or 3 times for better cleaning.

Have had to disassemble and clean out the mags a couple of times. They can get nasty enough to cause misfeed.

I don't think mine would work reliably if all I did was boresnake and knock off the carbon.

====

Dunno how many rounds have gone down the pipe, but its doubtfully much more than 5000. Definitely not 10,000. Lately I try to shoot at least once a month yearly average, and run about 100 thru the Mark II about every time. So thats only about 1200 per year on a busy year, and some years I hardly shot at all.

Lately it doesn't seem as accurate as years past. In the past, the groups used to have a good statistical spread. A gaussian bell curve distribution with most of the shots forming a definite center of a couple of inches, and fewer shots smoothly distributed around outside of the group. On good days it wasn't over-optimistic to shoot at 10 yards, 8.5X11 inch paper targets with two or even four bullseyes per sheet.

But nowadays the groups are getting 'lumpy' and no obvious pattern to the lumps from one target to the next. Maybe am just getting old, but could problems with the gun affect accuracy like that?

If I'm not just getting too old, then maybe there is something slightly loose inside the red dot. Or maybe the barrel needs re-crown? Haven't taken a magnifying glass to the crown, but it doesn't look obviously worn or nicked. The bore still looks shiny inside.

Any suggestions?

[TnEngineer]

Step 1. Follow instructions in Ruger manual.

Step 2. There is no step 2

You guys stop being panzies. You all sound like a bunch of cry baby non-mechanical, sheeple.

Now, straighten up and fly right.

Wow simply wow:screwy:

Edited to add: I simply can not believe some of the steps I read in your postings. Inserting magazine? Left hand in some sort of gangsta position? Tell me this is a joke of some kind and I will relax. Otherwise, I may just post some of your stuff on another gunboard for laughs!

Edited July 29, 2010 by TnEngineer