Let's see your 10-22's!

[MCSCOTT]

Finally got my barrel in today, so here's some crappy pics of a couple of mine. First one is still a work in progress. The only thing I've done internally was polish out the factory overspray and put in a VQ buffer since I already had one, but several other things will get changed out in that department before long. I was going for light weight on this one because this stock doesn't hardly weigh a thing. I wanted to go with the BSA Sweet 22 2-7 x 32 on it, but the Simmons 22mag weighs 6oz less and since I've used the scope before and knew it was decent on a .22 I went that route. Looking back now, I could have used different scope mounting and probably made up the 6oz difference since what I've got on here now turned out to be a good size block of aluminum.

As it sits right now, according to my not so accurate scales, it is exactly the same weight with the cheap heavy bi-pod attached as my stainless one without a bi-pod.

And this is the one that sees alot of use. It's very accurate as it sits, but it really gets on my nerves sometimes because no matter what kinda parts I throw inside it the thing just continues to be a picky eater. Works good with CCI's though, and I still love it just the same.

[Oh Shoot]

... It's very accurate as it sits, but it really gets on my nerves sometimes because no matter what kinda parts I throw inside it the thing just continues to be a picky eater. Works good with CCI's though, and I still love it just the same...

Assume you've put a VQ (or other quality) extractor in?

Seems that half the "failure to feed" problems are actually "failure to extract" (fast enough).

The ejector, too, is just a flat piece of metal, but of course it needs to be straight and not worn down, too.

Have you ever taken barrel off and replaced? The ejector slot on barrel really needs to be perfectly centered for extractor on bolt.

You've probably covered all those bases, and didn't mean to be the least bit condescending, but thought I'd mention, as most all 10/22s WILL reliably feed with most everything, at least with factory mags, although they may need to be disassembled, cleaned, and re-tensioned once in a great while, too.

- OS

[Oh Shoot]

Garufa! Whar's yer newly remastered 10/22?

- OS

[gregintenn]

The "one that got away". The elusive 10-22 Magnum! One of our fellow TGO members is enjoying it now.

[Oh Shoot]

The "one that got away". The elusive 10-22 Magnum! One of our fellow TGO members is enjoying it now.

From everything I've read, you're safer now.

- OS

[MCSCOTT]

Assume you've put a VQ (or other quality) extractor in?

Seems that half the "failure to feed" problems are actually "failure to extract" (fast enough).

The ejector, too, is just a flat piece of metal, but of course it needs to be straight and not worn down, too.

Have you ever taken barrel off and replaced? The ejector slot on barrel really needs to be perfectly centered for extractor on bolt.

You've probably covered all those bases, and didn't mean to be the least bit condescending, but thought I'd mention, as most all 10/22s WILL reliably feed with most everything, at least with factory mags, although they may need to be disassembled, cleaned, and re-tensioned once in a great while, too.

- OS

Yup, all of that is pretty much covered, and it never fails to feed or extract. My problems are always fail to fire, which I know is common with .22 ammo but this one seems to have them more often than any of the others. I've upgraded alot of the parts in that process as well, hammer, firing pin, etc, and still have the exact same results. Next step would be replacing the entire bolt assembly, but I honestly think my problem is the chamber because the PO didn't take good care of this rifle. It had a ton of powder build up that once cleaned left a place on the chamber which isn't perfectly machined smooth anymore. I think it's highly possible that barrel replacement would fix the problem, but I hate to do it since this is the type with the longer than normal barrel that I haven't seen in the aftermarket lists. Like I say though, it's basically just picky as far as what it will fire. Right now it's not as bad with CCI's but I know if it's a chamber issue it's only going to get worse.

Any sources on getting an exact replacement for this particular barrel?

[Guest Broomhead]

You might want to look into having the firing-pin pinned. Sometimes on 10/22s the firing pin starts to jump around as the rifle ages. It can, and has happened with others that I have read about, caused the firing pin to only strike the edge of rim, not enough to actually set off the primer. Pinning the firing pin helps keep it from jumping around and will make it strike more directly.

Go to RimfireCentral.com - Rimfire Community! and do search for it. I think Nemohunter or Que do this for a nominal fee.

[Garufa]

Garufa! Whar's yer newly remastered 10/22?

- OS

[MCSCOTT]

You might want to look into having the firing-pin pinned. Sometimes on 10/22s the firing pin starts to jump around as the rifle ages. It can, and has happened with others that I have read about, caused the firing pin to only strike the edge of rim, not enough to actually set off the primer. Pinning the firing pin helps keep it from jumping around and will make it strike more directly.

Go to RimfireCentral.com - Rimfire Community! and do search for it. I think Nemohunter or Que do this for a nominal fee.

This was something I thought about trying out, but may just replace the whole bolt assembly. What lead me to thinking this could be the problem was that the factory firing pin was a little worn to where it was an angle more than flat on the end, which could have been pushing it up and past the edge of the rim. I kinda got away from the idea though after putting in the titanium firing pin only to have the exact same results. I think my next step may be pulling the factory bolt assembly out of one of my other 10/22's since the others are pretty much new now and running it in this one for a while to see how it does. Since I'm thinking of going with a complete VQ or Kidd bolt assembly in the one with the Blackhawk stock, it would leave me with a brand new factory bolt assembly laying around anyway.

It's not really a too big of an issue in most cases, and I'll get it figured out eventually. It just bugs me that I recently rebuilt a very old 10/22 for my step brother that looked like it had been laying out in someone's yard for about 10 years. I had enough spare parts taken out of others laying around that all in all I may have spent maybe $50 tops to get his carbine back to nearly new condition. From that concoction of my spare parts, he's ended up with a 10/22 that hasn't had a single fail to anything using Remington bulk ammo so far, and yet with this stainless one I can't get through 3-4 rounds of hardly anything without a fail to fire.

[mikegideon]

From everything I've read, you're safer now.

- OS

Yep. i would love to have one anyway, but they discontinued it for a reason.

[mikegideon]

I LIKE that, and I'm not that big on dolled up 10/22's

[Oh Shoot]

... but I honestly think my problem is the chamber because the PO didn't take good care of this rifle. It had a ton of powder build up that once cleaned left a place on the chamber which isn't perfectly machined smooth anymore....

Oh okay, you had said in previous post it was a "picky eater", so thought feeding/jamming.

Look, anything is possible, but I can't imagine a 10/22 chamber being screwed up short of being stuck with a mallet, or sulfuric acid or something.

Do unfired rounds look as well struck as fired ones? Is the strike in toward the center of the round enough? Compare to your other 10/22. See Broomhead's suggestion, that's a possibility.

Are the bolts that hold the barrel v-block retained tight? Again, have you removed the barrel at some point? Perhaps it's not evening torqued on the bolts, is slightly cocked?

Easy enough to prove if it's firing/pin block problem as suggested by Broomhead -- simply swap blocks between your two rifles. Far as I know, every block every made will fit every 10/22 ever made, they are not milled specific to each gun's receiver or anything. While you're in there, take good look at guide rod inside recoil spring, make sure it's not corroded or burred, could keep block from perfectly aligning with chamber even though it closes enough to be in battery and fire - you can polish it without removing spring, just push spring up on each end.

Etc. Again, anything is possible, but I seriously doubt chamber aberration unless something has happened to it way out of the ordinary.

- OS

edit: just saw your post. Yep, first logical thing to do is simply swap bolts, as I mentioned -- easily done. That will point to or eliminate bolt/firing pin prob.

Edited July 23, 2010 by OhShoot

[Oh Shoot]

I LIKE that, and I'm not that big on dolled up 10/22's

Yeah, that stock is nice, has great feel and balance with the bull barrel .. love the mag release too; I almost got one of those types, but was too cheap.

Garufa has great taste in toys. Plus he can shoot.

- OS

[mikegideon]

Oh okay, you had said in previous post it was a "picky eater", so thought feeding/jamming.

Look, anything is possible, but I can't imagine a 10/22 chamber being screwed up short of being stuck with a mallet, or sulfuric acid or something.

Do unfired rounds look as well struck as fired ones? Is the strike in toward the center of the round enough? Compare to your other 10/22. See Broomhead's suggestion, that's a possibility.

Are the bolts that hold the barrel v-block retained tight? Again, have you removed the barrel at some point? Perhaps it's not evening torqued on the bolts, is slightly cocked?

Easy enough to prove if it's firing/pin block problem as suggested by Broomhead -- simply swap blocks between your two rifles. Far as I know, every block every made will fit every 10/22 ever made, they are not milled specific to each gun's receiver or anything. While you're in there, take good look at guide rod inside recoil spring, make sure it's not corroded or burred, could keep block from perfectly aligning with chamber even though it closes enough to be in battery and fire - you can polish it without removing spring, just push spring up on each end.

Etc. Again, anything is possible, but I seriously doubt chamber aberration unless something has happened to it way out of the ordinary.

- OS

edit: just saw your post. Yep, first logical thing to do is simply swap bolts, as I mentioned -- easily done. That will point to or eliminate bolt/firing pin prob.

I have heard complaints about some aftermarket barrels being picky eaters. Not a chamber aberration, just a tighter chamber. I didn't keep my stock barrel because I'm cheap.

[Oh Shoot]

I have heard complaints about some aftermarket barrels being picky eaters. Not a chamber aberration, just a tighter chamber. I didn't keep my stock barrel because I'm cheap.

Well, even Ruger's target (bull) barrel says not to shoot Stingers, since they are slightly over standard length, and yeah, just like Ruger Mini 14 target barrel, the 10/22 target barrel chamber is more precise spec.

But that wouldn't really affect shell ignition once a round IS seated.

- OS

[mikegideon]

Well, even Ruger's target (bull) barrel says not to shoot Stingers, since they are slightly over standard length, and yeah, just like Ruger Mini 14 target barrel, the 10/22 target barrel chamber is more precise spec.

But that wouldn't really affect shell ignition once a round IS seated.

- OS

Right. I also heard of some going back to the stock hammer spring after adding a hammer kit, but I haven't had any problems yet.

[MCSCOTT]

Oh okay, you had said in previous post it was a "picky eater", so thought feeding/jamming.

Look, anything is possible, but I can't imagine a 10/22 chamber being screwed up short of being stuck with a mallet, or sulfuric acid or something.

Do unfired rounds look as well struck as fired ones? Is the strike in toward the center of the round enough? Compare to your other 10/22. See Broomhead's suggestion, that's a possibility.

Are the bolts that hold the barrel v-block retained tight? Again, have you removed the barrel at some point? Perhaps it's not evening torqued on the bolts, is slightly cocked?

Easy enough to prove if it's firing/pin block problem as suggested by Broomhead -- simply swap blocks between your two rifles. Far as I know, every block every made will fit every 10/22 ever made, they are not milled specific to each gun's receiver or anything. While you're in there, take good look at guide rod inside recoil spring, make sure it's not corroded or burred, could keep block from perfectly aligning with chamber even though it closes enough to be in battery and fire - you can polish it without removing spring, just push spring up on each end.

Etc. Again, anything is possible, but I seriously doubt chamber aberration unless something has happened to it way out of the ordinary.

- OS

edit: just saw your post. Yep, first logical thing to do is simply swap bolts, as I mentioned -- easily done. That will point to or eliminate bolt/firing pin prob.

Yeah "picky eater" was a poor choice of words. After thinking about it more today from what everyone has said I'm starting to lean back towards the bolt/firing pin which was what I first thought the issue was to start with. I noticed some good close pics of chambers on other rifles that have seen several rounds and I don't think that's my problem.

My question now to you or Broomhead is do you think that the issue of the firing pin slipping past the rim still be a problem with a new firing pin, if it's put into a worn out bolt. My thinking to start with was that the firing pin was just worn out, which turned out to not be the case. Now that I've been thinking about it more I'm starting to think that maybe the bolt is the culprit, and could be the reason that the firing pin I took out of it was worn at that slight angle because it was allowing it to slip past the rim.

I hadn't planned on taking it out shooting when I go fire this new one tomorrow, but now I think I'm going to take it along and swap bolts back and forth.

Oh and to the other question, as far as I know unless the PO took it off this barrel hasn't been off of the rifle yet. I'm pretty sure the bolts are tight on the V-block but I'll double check that as well. I'm not new to swapping barrels on them, and have never had any issues with the one's that I've built or rebuilt using new barrels, but I assumed this one hadn't been removed before because of who the PO was.

Heck that assuming, and being pretty sure on those things may be part of the problem.

Edited July 23, 2010 by MCSCOTT

[Oh Shoot]

..

My question now to you or Broomhead is do you think that the issue of the firing pin slipping past the rim still be a problem with a new firing pin, if it's put into a worn out bolt. ....

Broom likely knows more than me, and hopefully will retort, but yeah as I understand the firing pin "pinning" mod is that the channel that the firing pin rides in gets channeled out too far from use so even a new pin hits too far out to the edge of the cartridge. But again, would think this would only affect a gun with a LOT of rounds, but not sure.

Again, easy to prove, switch whole bolt assemblies.

For those who don't know 10/22's, "firing pin" is sort of misnomer with this, it's actually a good sized plate that moves in bolt:

You'd think that the pin would be softer than the bolt and would wear without affecting bolt channel in which it rides, but apparently not necessarily so, I guess.

Here's what the pinning modification looks like, and how to do it .. many folks might could do it themselves if they're handy:

http://people.virginia.edu/~rjs7m/10-22-Bolt/

- OS

Edited July 23, 2010 by OhShoot

[MCSCOTT]

Then I'm fairly confident now that it's back to being a bolt issue. This particular rifle has most likely been fired quite a bit over it's lifetime, and I should have just picked up a whole new bolt assembly from the beginning.

[Oh Shoot]

Then I'm fairly confident now that it's back to being a bolt issue. This particular rifle has most likely been fired quite a bit over it's lifetime, and I should have just picked up a whole new bolt assembly from the beginning.

Well, switch bolt assemblies to prove it.

I didn't catch it, but did you already change firing pin? It's cheap.

Ruger doesn't show bolt as a part you can buy, though, and the 3rd party ones I see on line cost about as much as a new rifle.

- OS

[Garufa]

I LIKE that, and I'm not that big on dolled up 10/22's

Yeah, that stock is nice, has great feel and balance with the bull barrel .. love the mag release too; I almost got one of those types, but was too cheap.

Garufa has great taste in toys. Plus he can shoot.

- OS

Thanks. Prior to last week is was just a run of the mill 10/22 that I've had since about 1979 or whenever I was in 6th grade. Have had the scope on there for some time but may need to stick with the see-through mounts as they are tall and the stock has a freakishly high comb. Last year put in a Volquartsen hammer and bolt release. Last week added the new barrel (Adams & Bennett), stock (Boyd's Blaster), Volquartsen target trigger and the best 10/22 upgrade of all time, a Tactical Solutions magazine release. That thing is awesome.

The only other thing I plan to do is get Volquartsen extractor. That barrel has an extremely tight chamber and the original extractor is just not up to the job.

Edited July 23, 2010 by Garufa

[Mike.357]

That barrel has an extremely tight chamber and the original extractor is just not up to the job.

I will keep bringing the litte screw driver until you get the part.

[mikegideon]

I will keep bringing the litte screw driver until you get the part.

Sounds like he just needs to wallow out the chamber a little. See the Wow thread for details

[enfield]

That would require a Porter Cable wallowing tool, $89.95 at your local Lowe's.

Come on guys -- this is a PICTURE thread.

Edited July 24, 2010 by enfield

[Guest Broomhead]

Broom likely knows more than me, and hopefully will retort, but yeah as I understand the firing pin "pinning" mod is that the channel that the firing pin rides in gets channeled out too far from use so even a new pin hits too far out to the edge of the cartridge. But again, would think this would only affect a gun with a LOT of rounds, but not sure.

Again, easy to prove, switch whole bolt assemblies.

For those who don't know 10/22's, "firing pin" is sort of misnomer with this, it's actually a good sized plate that moves in bolt:

You'd think that the pin would be softer than the bolt and would wear without affecting bolt channel in which it rides, but apparently not necessarily so, I guess.

Here's what the pinning modification looks like, and how to do it .. many folks might could do it themselves if they're handy:

http://people.virginia.edu/~rjs7m/10-22-Bolt/

- OS

Yep, that's the way I understand it. Talk to Que or Nemohunter on RimFire Central.