Gun safe torture test ideas

[56FordGuy]

I've happened across a trashed safe. It's already been subjected to a lot of testing, and as a result the door locking bolts are bent, the lock knob and handle are broken, and the body is slightly twisted.

However, it's still closed, locked, and secure. Before disposing of it, I want to see what it takes to actually open it. How effective are grinders, saws, and torches? I want to know.

The question is, what else would you like to see done to it? I plan on attempting to open it with a reciprocating saw, angle grinder, and a cutting torch. I've even thought about dragging it out and shooting at it, just because.

What else would you like to see tried on it?

[gregintenn]

If I were trying to get into one, I'd go in from the back or maybe the side. The door looks to be the most secure area to me. I don't know what the fireliners are made of. You might want to find out before breathing dust from it.

[56FordGuy]

I plan on attacking the sides, along with the door. I would guess most thieves are smart enough to do the same.

Fireliners are sheetrock on the sides and bottom, I believe the same for the door.

[gregintenn]

Sheetrock?!?! I expected some space age wonder material.

[56FordGuy]

Sheetrock?!?! I expected some space age wonder material.

I've looked at Sentry, Champion, and Browning safes in detail. All three use sheetrock for fireproofing. I'd guess that most gun safes are similar. Granted, the Champion and Browning have more sheetrock than the Sentry, but that's all I've found in them.

[Garufa]

Screw all that...shoot it.

Seriously, take it out back or wherever you go and just shoot it.

[56FordGuy]

Screw all that...shoot it.

Seriously, take it out back or wherever you go and just shoot it.

I plan on it, before I get rid of it. I'll use the tractor and haul it down to the field, then shoot at it. I'll be sure to provide pictures, if not video, of all the testing (and shooting) here, too.

[gregintenn]

:DLet's all go shoot it!!!

[Jasongar8]

I've got a M2HB with some API ammo that we could try on it.

[Mike.357]

try a sawzall on the sides of it. Let me know how easy it worked

[Guest DeadEye]

try a sawzall on the sides of it. Let me know how easy it worked

Very easy! No matter what Gauge steel!

[hipower]

Sheetrock?!?! I expected some space age wonder material.

Nope. Just plain old sheetrock. Possibly a slightly better grade than standard builders grade, but sheetrock none the less. And I can verify that. I'm refinishing mine. It was under two feet of water for 24/36 hours and I've stripped out the interior, sanding and repriming it; then will paint and seal it before building new shelves for it. The only difference I can see is that this one ( a 45 gun Stackon) has full 3/4 inch sheets used to line it.

Before it's all over I may wish I'd just replaced the safe. But if it doesn't satisfy me, at least I'll have a dandy ammo box.

[Rightwinger]

I plan on it, before I get rid of it. I'll use the tractor and haul it down to the field, then shoot at it. I'll be sure to provide pictures, if not video, of all the testing (and shooting) here, too.

Must be cognizant of ricochets!!! I think a wall of timbers in front of a depression so you can be almost fully covered is in order.

Now for the serious part of the post.....you didn't state that you were inviting me! My AR is highly offended.

(I thought you took it to the scrap metal place today??)

[mikegideon]

Nope. Just plain old sheetrock. Possibly a slightly better grade than standard builders grade, but sheetrock none the less. And I can verify that. I'm refinishing mine. It was under two feet of water for 24/36 hours and I've stripped out the interior, sanding and repriming it; then will paint and seal it before building new shelves for it. The only difference I can see is that this one ( a 45 gun Stackon) has full 3/4 inch sheets used to line it.

Before it's all over I may wish I'd just replaced the safe. But if it doesn't satisfy me, at least I'll have a dandy ammo box.

There's fire rated sheetrock used in commercial buildings for fire exit paths, like hallways. Those walsl are rated the same basic way that safes are rated. Increase the hour rating by increasing thickness or adding layers.

[Erik88]

Must be cognizant of ricochets!!!

Don't let Ohshoot take aim to it. Someone will get shot in the forehead!!!

[USMCJG]

Type X drywall is used(or at least should be) for all walls and ceilings in all commercial buildings. As far as construction goes, two layers of 5/8" Type X drywall, one layer on each side of the studs, equals a 1 hr. fire rating. Two layers on each side equals a 2 hr. rating. As has been said, if you want to increase the fire resistance of your safe, add extra layers of Type X drywall. In a safe application, the steel body should do most of the actual flame resisting, the drywall will help to hold the heat down.

The reason that drywall is used in gun safes is because the gypsum that drywall is made of contains hydrates that boil off as they are exposed to heat, keeping the temperature down to the boiling point or less on the side of the board that is not directly exposed to the heat source(the inside of the safe). The more layers of drywall you have, or the thicker the drywall, the more hydrates that have to be boiled off before the drywall becomes ineffective at resisting heat.

Typically, the only real difference between Type X drywall and regular drywall is that Type X drywall has glass fibers running through it that helps it maintain its shape once the paper burns off and the hydrates in the gypsum are exhausted. If you look at the end of a Type X drywall board you will be able to see the tiny glass fibers sticking out.

[hipower]

Type X drywall is used(or at least should be) for all walls and ceilings in all commercial buildings. As far as construction goes, two layers of 5/8" Type X drywall, one layer on each side of the studs, equals a 1 hr. fire rating. Two layers on each side equals a 2 hr. rating. As has been said, if you want to increase the fire resistance of your safe, add extra layers of Type X drywall. In a safe application, the steel body should do most of the actual flame resisting, the drywall will help to hold the heat down.

The reason that drywall is used in gun safes is because the gypsum that drywall is made of contains hydrates that boil off as they are exposed to heat, keeping the temperature down to the boiling point or less on the side of the board that is not directly exposed to the heat source(the inside of the safe). The more layers of drywall you have, or the thicker the drywall, the more hydrates that have to be boiled off before the drywall becomes ineffective at resisting heat.

Typically, the only real difference between Type X drywall and regular drywall is that Type X drywall has glass fibers running through it that helps it maintain its shape once the paper burns off and the hydrates in the gypsum are exhausted. If you look at the end of a Type X drywall board you will be able to see the tiny glass fibers sticking out.

That definitely identifies the situation. As I was pulling the sheets out I noticed what I thought was fiberglass threads in the board.This was full 3/4 thickness with spacer blocks about every 12-16 inches to attach to the metal walls. The interior wall was held off the safe wall about a half inch by these spacers. The basic constuction was quite simple so I expect that with cleaning, painting, and sealing; the safe should still be just fine for it's intended purpose.

[Guest 70below]

How about some movie mythbuster stuff! Fill it with water then set off a small charge or air pressure to blow the door!

[Kegger]

Get a squad of joes, a couple crowbars and prybars, and about an hour.

They'll jack that thing up.

Edited July 11, 2010 by Kegger

[Guest billwilly73]

TANNERITE.............1 lb jug on the inside back, and see if you can blow the door off.

[56FordGuy]

:DLet's all go shoot it!!!

I've got a M2HB with some API ammo that we could try on it.

Now for the serious part of the post.....you didn't state that you were inviting me! My AR is highly offended.

I'm afraid it will be a couple of weeks before I'm ready to shoot it. When the time comes, I'll make sure y'all know.

How about some movie mythbuster stuff! Fill it with water then set off a small charge or air pressure to blow the door!

Had the safe not been severely damaged before I got it, that would be possible. As it sits now, the body is not square anymore, and there's a hole gouged in it at the edge of the door.

Get a squad of joes, a couple crowbars and prybars, and about an hour.

They'll jack that thing up.

It's been done. One guy bent a 6' pry bar attempting to force it open.

[fastbs]

i'm tagin this to look at later. Lookin forward to seein what happens here.

[monkeylizard]

What else would you like to see tried on it?

http://ec-mosnay.tice.ac-orleans-tours.fr/eva/IMG/jpg/800px-Trebuchet_Castelnaud.jpg

[56FordGuy]

http://ec-mosnay.tice.ac-orleans-tours.fr/eva/IMG/jpg/800px-Trebuchet_Castelnaud.jpg

I like the way you think...

Unfortunately, I don't really have the facilities or equipment to hurl a roughly 700 pound safe out of a trebuchet. I think shooting at it will be the best we can do along those lines.

[av88tor]

If you are wondering what the safe has been through before hand here is the video,

it was dropped 6 times and then a pry test was performed on the door.