Idiot Scratch

[Guest dboonekilledabearhere]

Well I was hoping this would never happen but it did today. I have put a scratch on the left side of the stainless slide of my Defender during re-assembly. It is very slight and can only be seen when held in the light just so. Is there any way I can buff/polish this out? I have cleaned this gun a few times so I can kick myself for letting this happen.

[Guest jackdm3]

Eapking has a very minor blemish on his, but you gotta realize these things will just happen on any finish, unless you want to make it a "Safe Queen." And where's the fun in that?!

[Guest BEARMAN]

Eapking has a very minor blemish on his, but you gotta realize these things will just happen on any finish, unless you want to make it a "Safe Queen." And where's the fun in that?!

+1

[Links2k]

+1 Shoot it and enjoy it.

[Kevo]

Unless the scratch goes all the way into the trigger guard, just consider it proof that you actually disassemble your pistol for cleaning. I have known 3 grown men, blue collar guys like myself, that I've had to show how to disassemble their semi autos. Everyone has to learn but each of these guys pistols were "nasty" dirty inside and pristine outside. That darn slide stop requires finesse, don't feel bad at all.

[Guest 10mm4me]

It happens bro. Guns are tools, meant to be used. I slid my G20 in it's holster last year after a hunt, it had a little sand in it & that friction put 2 nice inch long surface scratches on the left side near the muzzle. It sucks, but it happens.

[DarrellG]

You can try using a scotch brite pad rubbing it in one direction. I agree with 10mm... It does happen (scratches).

[K191145]

Unless the scratch goes all the way into the trigger guard, just consider it proof that you actually disassemble your pistol for cleaning. I have known 3 grown men, blue collar guys like myself, that I've had to show how to disassemble their semi autos. Everyone has to learn but each of these guys pistols were "nasty" dirty inside and pristine outside. That darn slide stop requires finesse, don't feel bad at all.

I know the type, and then they whine about malfunctions.

All my handguns have a good deal of holster wear, I don't think you can keep them too pretty if you carry and shoot them alot.

[Currently]

There are two schools of thought regarding material possessions ...

1. They are jewels, works of art where insane amounts of time, money and effort are expended to keep them perfect and pristine.

2. They are tools, used for a purpose and any wear or blemish is a patina reflecting its respectful usage.

With the first option, the possession owns you.

With the second option, you own the possession.

It was a painful lesson for me to learn.

Looking back, I am glad I learned it because there are things in life that are much more important than possessions.

Keep seeking that perfection and slowly lose sight of what it really means to be human.

Edited June 27, 2010 by Currently

[Guest Arko]

Character mark.

[Guest Plainsman]

The first 1911 I bought was a Springfield Loaded. I purchased it used and got a great deal on it, which I credit to the nice idiot mark the previous owner had left on it. I think the past owner must have been the epitome of "idiot" because the scratch looked like he had done it over and over in its usual scratching spot, and had even swung the dang thing up to the slide and down to the tigger guard. I went ahead and purchased it because I knew that I had a lot of learning to do regarding 1911's. I hoped it would be a shooter (it is) and just wasn't that worried about the asthetics of it. I'm sure that I added to that scratch the first few takedowns, but its allowed me to learn the process. Now I don't have to worry so much about doing that to a Dan Wesson.

You may want to put a patch or two under the slide stop while you insert the stop. Then you can just pull out the patch right before pushing down the stop into position.

[gotigers]

stainless? polish it out.....

[TGO David]

I'd think that buffing that spot sufficient to remove the scar will result in a spot that is shinier than the rest of the frame.

[Guest Plainsman]

I'd think that buffing that spot sufficient to remove the scar will result in a spot that is shinier than the rest of the frame.

Depending on the depth, I'd probably stay away from this too...the buffed spot would be more noticable than the scratch itself.

[I_Like_Pie]

Only gun snobs who are more talk than material look down on the "idiot mark" It is akin to seeing a used car with a scuffed wheel and automatically assuming that the oil has never been changed.

If you shoot it and clean it - there will be wear. It is not unusual at all to have the stop slide accidental glide across the frame to leave a very faint line. Gouging a trench is a different story....then the name suits.

It doesn't affect the function of the gun at all. Just means that the gun is used. Don't worry about it, shoot it, and enjoy it.

[Guest TargetShooter84]

Just enjoy it.

[TNRat]

...just one more reason to further support the firearms and knife industry by buying at least two of everything. Then you have a beater and a safe queen.

[strickj]

I'd think that buffing that spot sufficient to remove the scar will result in a spot that is shinier than the rest of the frame.

Naa....

Just use a more coarse jewelers rouge and don't go too fine.

You can also blend it in,too. Shouldn't be a problem.

[mousegunner]

Some other stuff to try...experiment on something else first!

"Barkeeper's Friend"

Baking Soda and water

White toothpaste

Let us know how it goes.

[Guest TargetShooter84]

Toothpaste?

Who wants to brush the gun's teeth?

[mikegideon]

Naa....

Just use a more coarse jewelers rouge and don't go too fine.

You can also blend it in,too. Shouldn't be a problem.

There was another thread on this. You can also try to match the finish texture with the right texture of scotchbrite. I have a scratched 1911 and a scratched Marlin 336SS, so I've been looking for a good way to buff them out. Marlin recommends Scotchbrite.

[gotigers]

I'd think that buffing that spot sufficient to remove the scar will result in a spot that is shinier than the rest of the frame.

It depends on what type of finish. I have a brushed polish. So i used a little CLP with a scotch brite pad. Looks perfect.

If he has smooth finish and wants the gun to look perfectly consistant, he can strip it and buff the entire side to a nice even finish. It doesn't take much and is easy to do. I would use a cotton cloth for this with some non abbrasive buffing cream.

I he has a custom high refletive finish, i would leave it until the entire gun needs a re-finish. Then send it off for a pro finish.

[Guest david_g17]

Don't beat yourself up too much over it. Remember, it's a gun, not a prom dress. Relax and enjoy it!

Edited June 27, 2010 by david_g17

[eapking]

Yeah, I'm not too worried about the one I did (same place). Gonna let it ride until I make some more marks on it, then get it buffed out by a pro. I've pretty much realized this is going to my my EDC so I'm ready for some more scratches. When I hit the lottery I'll get the Safe Queen 1911.

[Guest dboonekilledabearhere]

Well, I did enjoy the gun a little more today. I put another 50 rounds through it. I was a little irritated when I first put the scratch on the slide but no big deal. I am going to get a different CCW. When I do I will have the slide polished and the scratch should buff out easily. Whether it is guns, tools, cars, lawnmowers, or whatever I do use & enjoy them but I also like to take good care of them. Thanks for the comments and advice.

On another note I finally got to sight in my Ruger Mark lll today. I had a H%$# of time due to the fact that the boresight I purchased from Dick's had an off-center laser. Of course I did not catch this right away. I have an iTAC Defense Holo sight on the pistol I was trying to sight in. Anyway, after I figured out the boresight was way off I made the necessary adjustments and at 50 yards I was able to blow the center out of the target. By the way I will be returning the boresight.