what's the best kit to get into reloading

[Guest REDDOG79]

i am looking at getting into reloading mainly .45 ACP and .38 Special/357 Magnum and then going into some rifle calibers like 30-30 and maybe 7.62x39 and whatever else I can reload. So I have a few questions

which of these would be a better buy

Lee Anniversary Kit 99.99 or

Lee deluxe turret press 119.99

Are carbide dies better?

are 38 and 357 dies interchangeable or do i have to buy each caliber?

thanks this is going to be my father's day present so I want to pick the better deal

[56FordGuy]

The .38 and .357 use the same dies. The .357 case is slightly longer, so you will have to re-adjust them when you change calibers. No big deal. Carbide dies are what you want for straight walled handgun loads (where the brass doesn't bottleneck at the top) because you don't have to lubricate the brass before loading, and they last longer.

The single stage vs turret press is a personal choice. The turret will be a little faster, but not by much. I started with the Lee Turret Press, I would not do it again. I would get the single stage.

The single stage will always be useful. The turret press won't load as many rounds per hour as a real progressive, so if you're buying the turret for speed you may find yourself disappointed, and upgrading to a progressive press down the road. The turret will load more than the single stage, but with less precision.

I would go single stage. Even if you find yourself buying a progressive later, the single stage is great when you don't want to readjust the progressive just for 10 or 20 rounds to try a new load.

I'd recommend you pick up at least two load books, and buy/ borrow The ABCs of Reloading.

[Guest REDDOG79]

Thanks for the advice I am planning on ordering at least two reloading books when I order the press plus a set of dies (probably .45Acp)

[Guest REDDOG79]

i just ordered the Lee anniversary Kit set of carbide dies for .45 Acp The Hornady ABCs of reloading 8th edition and Hodgdons reloading manual Can't wait to get started

[56FordGuy]

Cool!

As you buy more dies for more calibers, take a look at Hornday. I don't have any of their dies, but I believe they're still running a special where you get 100 free bullets with the purchase of a set of dies.

[gregintenn]

Are carbide dies better?

The only way to go with straight walled handgun cases.

[gregintenn]

I bought an Anniversary kit 15 years ago, thinking I'd upgrade as finances got better. Finances have improved, but I've yet to see the need to upgrade. Unless you're loading 1000 rounds per week, I think you'll be more than happy.

[DWARREN123]

I have and started with the Lee Anniversary Kit. I only load 40 S&W now and am happy with my set-up. I have been known to reload a 1,000 rounds over the weekend but I had the cases prepped and primed.

I have come to love reloading as a hobby in and of it self. Great hobby!

Good luck and be safe.

[dlm37015]

breach lock is better kit as it has auto prime with it for 19.00 more

also look at the new smart reloader they have great tools at very good prices

[Guest friesepferd]

get the lee classic turret with carbine dies.

when i 'lost' my turret press, i decided to up to the the pro1000, but the turret is a GREAT press and what i always recommend to beginners.

[dlm37015]

the smart reloader mark16 is a very large press that you just screw the dies into no bushing i don't mind no bushing it is larger than the lee classic cast can remove insert and load 50 bmg and it sells for 79.99

[I_Like_Pie]

The lee single stage kit is the only way to go if you are new into it. It will teach you and you can still use it for rifle loads when/if you move on to something different.

Carbide....the only way to do it on straight brass. That is unless you are a masochist looking for the punishment that only a stuck piece of brass can dole out.

$150 and you have everything you need to get started with the lee setup + sundries...can't beat that anywhere

[SonnyCrockett]

Im looking for a reloader too......for a first timer like myself the kits are confusing

any thoughts on a Lee Pro 1000

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productnumber=730947

Edited June 7, 2010 by SonnyCrockett

[Dolomite_supafly]

I just want to make a correction.

I just went out and checked my dies again. Turns out all my pistol dies are carbide. I thought a few sets that I often use weren't but it turns out those are.

Sorry for the confusion and thanks I Like Pie for raising my curiosity.

Dolomite

[SonnyCrockett]

Troublesome to get to work right. You will have issues with powder gumming up the process.

I have a Lee 1000 in 45 ACP that is sitting under a bench. I got so frustrated with it I just used it to decap and bell the case mouths only. I have since removed anything I can use for my single stage and left the rest.

Some people have great luck with them, unfortuantely I was not one of them.

Also, I would not recommend a progessive as a first loader. A single stage is the best to learn on. I still use a single stage and can easily turn out a few hundred rifle rounds in an afternoon and probably 500 pistol in the same amount of time if I am feeling up to it. I weigh each charge for the rifle and use a powder dispenser for the pistol, only checking every the powder amount every 20-25 rounds if it seems to be running reliably.

Reloading isn't that complicated. I was helping a friend set up his equipment and show him how by loading a few rounds for him. Both him and another friend couldn't believe how easy it really is. The biggest part is paying attention and finding what works for you. Everyone does things a little different. What you have probably read makes it seem like it is rocket science. It isn't, all you have to do is just pay attention to what you are doing.

I really have no desire to make one bullet at a time

[SonnyCrockett]

I do it for precision not to make noise. Reloading for me is not about quantity but quality. I have my 9mm AR for shooting quantity while my 223 guns are for precision shooting.

I have a Savage that shoots .3's regularly at 100 yards. My AR shoots .5's regularly at 100 yards. Both are using ammo that is put together one round at a time. I don't mind doing it because the benefit is more than just cost savings. Someday when you are trying to squeeze the most out of your rifle you will understand.

If you want a progressive that works and works well then look at buying a Dillon. With quality comes expense and the Dillon is more expensive than Lee for a reason. I am about saving money when I can but when quality is put second to cost you are goign to run into issues no matter what it is, cars, guns, whatever.

Just because I like an accurate rifle doesn't make me crazy. When you are asking for advice you may want to listen before you judge.

Dolomite

your right......Dillon has a machine called a SquareDealB.....I think I can swing that......Lee has very mixed reviews and like most things in life,you get what you pay for

[Mark A]

Sonny, I think the Square Deal machine is a bit limited on calibers. You might want to check the available calibers before you make a decision.

I recently started reloading and ended up going with a 550, For me the first requirement was quantity as I shoot a ton of pistol. It is more expensive to go that way but my time is worth a lot to me. I knocked out 400 rounds of 40 in about 90 minutes saturday morning. Others can go faster but I am still watching things closely and stopping a lot.

I hope to buy a single stage this fall so that I can start loading precision rifle rounds. I'm slowly getting in to distance shooting and reloading for that will be fun but different.

Mark

[Guest Lester Weevils]

I haven't had problems with a square deal B. As its the only machine ever owned, and have only loaded 3 calibers, am too ignorant to comment on other options.

Lurking reloading sites, apparently some folks keep either single-stage, turret, or really fancy progressive presses for rifle loading, and still find it useful to have an SDB dedicated for pistol rounds. Some guys that apparently load lots of calibers, they claim that SDB is 'ideal' for cranking out pistol ammo. Dunno. Just reporting what have read.

AFAIK, the possible sources of buyer's remorse with an SDB compared to not a huge amount more money spent on a Dillon 550--

1. If in the future you ever decide to reload for rifle, ya gotta buy SOMETHING else in addition to the SDB. At least a rock chucker or whatever. SDB is pistol-only. After 10 years with the SDB, sometimes lately I think about reloading .223 and experience slight buyers remorse on this issue. But not extreme buyers remorse.

2. If for some reason the Dillon dies don't suit yer fancy, yer out of luck because Dillon is the only source for SDB dies. I haven't had any problems with the Dillon dies.

RL550 will take any 'industry standard' dies, but if I got an RL550 would probably just buy Dillon dies because I'm lazy and their stuff seems to work fine. Don't fix what ain't broke.

As far as I can tell, the possible biggest disadvantage of getting a 550 rather than SDB, except for a little more expense-- As best I know, the 550 is not a 'true progressive' press-- I think you have to manually turn the shellholder after every handle stroke. On the SDB the shellholder rotates automatically.

However, unless you go to the expense of getting auto-shell-loaders and auto-bullet-loaders, you have to manually insert a new shell and bullet on each handle stroke. It probably wouldn't be especially annoying to also rotate the shellholder, because your hands are already right there from inserting the case and the bullet. Dunno from experience whether this is a big deal or a trivial difference.

[SonnyCrockett]

You can do a lot better by buying individual parts. Most kits have good stuff as well as stuff you will never use. You are paying for both.

As far as carbide dies you can save yourself some money. I have used carbide and non on pistol calibers and never had a problem with non carbide dies. With rifle cartridges you are going to be lubing them anyways so save you money there as well. Lee dies work great for the money. Sometimes the decapper moves and has to be reset. RCBS dies don't do this because the decapper pin is threaded. This is the only reason ehy RCBS is better then Lee. The loaded rounds are no better and yes I own Lee, RCBS, Redding dies.

For longevity of the rifle cases get a Lee collet die and a Redding body die for the caliber you are loading. It adds an extra step to the loading process but you get 2-3 times the number of loads out of your cases versus a standard sizing die.

The Lee perfect powder measure looks cheap and the price is cheap but it is one of the best out there and even better when you consider cost. The Lee Auto Prime is really good also or for now you can use the down stroke on the press to seat the primers to save a little money.

The scale I recommended works great for my friend but turns itself off after 1 minute. My friend is a littel annoyed with that but for the price it is a decent electronic scale. It is still WAY quicker than a balance bean scale.

Here is a list I just recommended to a friend and he loves it. He is loading 9mm as well as 223.

118739

Lyman Electronic Scale Powder Funnel Pan

$6.09

136199

Lee Case Trimmer Cutter with Ball Grip

$4.99

519525

Imperial Case Sizing Wax 2 oz

$7.79

540522

Lee Perfect Powder Measure

$18.89

566058

Lee Auto Prime Hand Priming Tool Shellholder Package of 11

$12.99

807875

Lee Auto Prime Hand Priming Tool

$12.99

713372

Frankford Arsenal Micro Reloading Electronic Powder Scale 750 Grain Capacity

$19.99

814175

Lee Classic 4 Hole Turret Press

$94.99

You will still need to buy caliber specific stuff like the dies and case length gauge and holder for the Lee trimmer.

You will need some sort of dipper to move the powder around. A caliper, either digital or dial. I would recommend a kinetic bullet puller, I use mine every time I load.

For case cleaning use Lemishine. It is available at Walmart for a few dollars. Basically just soak your brass overnight then rinse and let dry. It works great, not as good as a tumbler but you are only spending a few dollars too. I bought my first bottle of Lemishine and I have done probably 1000 cases and still have well over 1/2 the bottle left.

lemi shine - Google Product Search

If you do get a tumbler do not buy the media for tumblers from a reloading site. Go to a pet store and get reptile litter. It is walnut hulls as well but it is finer so it doesn't get caught in the primer pockets. Noting worse than having to pick the stuff out of each case after you tumble.

Kaytee Pet Products Walnut Bedding 25 lb#

I generally soak my cases in Lemishine initially, I then pricess them, the into the tumbler to remove the sizing lube, prime and load the rounds. Then finally tumble one more time to make them laoded ammo pretty.

If you have any quesitons feel free to ask. I use a slightly different setup than this but what I use works great for me.

Dolomite

Actually.........I like this set up......Lees best press (from what I can read) with good bang for the buck tools and parts.....

I made my Midway wishlist up......added a few things but for the most part

I think this is just what a new guy like me needs to get started...

Now I have to start collecting Brass,I see some deals on gunbroker as well as find me some powder and primers

as well as a few books for reference

[McAllyn]

FWIW, I have a SDB, RL550B, and CH Single Stage. Yes, the SDB is full progressive, so I throw most of my bulk 9MM through there. I do 38SuperComp, 38TJ, 40, and 45 on the 550, and use the CH single as a random decapping station and Redding GRx 40 station.

As far as speed difference, the SDB and 550 tend to even out. The SDB is a little small, so it can jitter a bit and shake powder. The 550 is bigger and smoother, so manual index is very quick. The CH... well, it's single stage. No such thing as fast single stage, and there should not be either. Not what it's for.

Learn on a single. You'll see, feel, and know every aspect of what you're doing. Once you get it all down, then consider moving up to turrets, semi-progressive, or full progressive if you feel you just want to go faster. But start on a single.

Mac

[gsbell]

I know some people will say I'm crazy but I dove right into the deep end and started with a Dillon 650 with case feeder. I couldn't imagine loading without an auto-indexing progressive. Is it complicated? You have to have some common sense and ability to read in order to get started, but I really had no issues.

[Dolomite_supafly]

I know some people will say I'm crazy but I dove right into the deep end and started with a Dillon 650 with case feeder. I couldn't imagine loading without an auto-indexing progressive. Is it complicated? You have to have some common sense and ability to read in order to get started, but I really had no issues.

Not crazy. When you get a quality setup you are going to have a lot less problems than most. The 650 is a great progessive from everything I have read and been told.

Dolomtie

[tnhawk]

My first loader was a single stage RCBS. It did a good job over 30 years ago and still does. I've added a Dillon 550, digital scale, etc. but the RCBS is still seeing frequent use. One of the best investments you make for reloading is to get several good manuals and read them before starting.

[Independent_shooter]

I'm spending alot on ammo, 9MM and 45ACP...and considering reloading. Anyone have an idea of what it costs per round for reload ammo for 9mm vs. 45acp? I'm trying to figure out how many rounds I would have to shoot to get back my initial investment. For those wondering...yes I am a CPA.

[56FordGuy]

I'm spending alot on ammo, 9MM and 45ACP...and considering reloading. Anyone have an idea of what it costs per round for reload ammo for 9mm vs. 45acp? I'm trying to figure out how many rounds I would have to shoot to get back my initial investment. For those wondering...yes I am a CPA.

Handloading Cost Calculator

Try that for a start. I haven't done the math on mine for a while, but I think I recall saving 4-5 bucks on 50 rounds of 9mm vs WWB. More uncommon calibers add up faster.