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AR-15 first shots fired


Im Neero

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I purchased an M&P15 yesterday and when I took it to the range I experienced some malfunctions that I think were "failure to feeds" When I fired a round the action would cycle, but the bolt would not strip a round from the magazine and shut on an empty chamber so that when I tried to fire the next shot nothing happened. The magazine has a little play when seated and I can wiggle it back and forth a little bit from front to back.

The other issue that I encounter is I went to seat the magazine with the bolt locked back one time and the bolt was too far forward in the bolt carrier to allow the magazine to be seated properly.

I am not sure if these malfunctions are equipment related, or if I am doing something wrong. Any advice?

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Guest bkelm18

My AR did that the first few times I took it out. I bought some new AR Stoner mags and liberally lubed up the bolt carrier group and never really had anymore problems.

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Guest Crunchman

My M&P15 likes to be run wet. When I first got it, I was reluctant to put a lot of lube in it, but found very quickly that it ran better with visible oil on the bolt/carrier/rails. Also, it really didn't start to get smooth until I got 300+ rounds through it.

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Guest Shooting Coach

As one who has Patrol Rifle Instructor and old Colt's Registered Gunsmith creds, the AR-15 LIKES oil. As was said in an earlier post, VISIBLE oil on the carrier and bolt will make your gun more reliable.

Buy and use an AR-15 chamber brush. I put mine on a military rod and chuck it in a drill. Works great.

If you are using steel cased laquer coated ammo, the chamber MUST be kept clean as noted above. If you have failures-to-extract, go to Wolff Springs website and order the heavy AR-15 extractor springs. These three dollar springs really help the AR with mediocre ammo.

A good mag makes or breaks any self loading firearm. Brownell's has great mags. CDNN has cheap milsurp mags. Military mags should work in your gun.

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Guest mc30707

I'm new to AR's as well. Have had AK's for years. Do you guys find you need a break in period for your AR's? I have a stag 2L I've fired about 300 rds in two range trips and have had no FTE or FTF. Same with the wifes RRA entry tactical. We bought them, I took them apart, cleaned and liberally lubed both (read to do that on ar15.com), then went to the range. We also clean them after every trip to the range. your thoughts?

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Guest Crunchman
I'm new to AR's as well. Have had AK's for years. Do you guys find you need a break in period for your AR's? I have a stag 2L I've fired about 300 rds in two range trips and have had no FTE or FTF. Same with the wifes RRA entry tactical. We bought them, I took them apart, cleaned and liberally lubed both (read to do that on ar15.com), then went to the range. We also clean them after every trip to the range. your thoughts?

My S&W MP has had around 3k rounds through it and I've had (probably) 25 FTE's, all within the first 200 to 300 rounds and all with Wolf or Brown Bear ammo. So, yeah, I guess it did have a break in period. My Colt/Bushy combo was used when I got it and I've never had any kind of stoppage with it that wasn't my fault in not keeping enough lube in it.

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Guest Mugster
I'm new to AR's as well. Have had AK's for years. Do you guys find you need a break in period for your AR's? I have a stag 2L I've fired about 300 rds in two range trips and have had no FTE or FTF. Same with the wifes RRA entry tactical. We bought them, I took them apart, cleaned and liberally lubed both (read to do that on ar15.com), then went to the range. We also clean them after every trip to the range. your thoughts?

If its lubed it'll run with good mags, new or not, imo. I've never seen an AR needing break in. Once broken in with a few k rounds they might run dry if they are relatively clean, but be ready to stick a cleaning rod to knock out the deformed case. Also they like hot ammo, the hotter the better. M193 or the newer milspec 62gr stuff is your best bet, followed closely by US made .223 ammo.

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