Rattle Can Camo How To

[fastbs]

By request from some pics i put up earlier.

How To Rattle Can Camo

Yes after you drag your gun around the finish will get worn a bit but i have been amazed at the abuse it can take.

Stuff needed:

rubbing alcohol, few rags, masking tape, scotch brite pad, ear plug, card board cut into various strips (used a shoe box from the wifes collection), and desired camo colors (the ultra flat krylon stuff works great)

heres my card board strips

i like to take the barrel/action, and all small bolt on parts such as butt pad and bottom metal out of the stock and paint these seperate. This provides for much nicer finished product

i do not take the scope, rings, and base apart. i leave these peices on the action. May just be me but i don't want anything extra such as paint on these mounting surfaces.

!! REMEMBER THE PREP WORK IS VITAL TO A NICE FINISHED PRODUCT !!

1. tape off everything you do not want painted; such as numbers on scope. cover or plug any threaded holes. if your rifle is bedded also tape off the bedded surfaces on the action/barrel and stock

2. take the bolt out and tape off any of it you don't want painted.

3. stuff a rag into the action to keep paint from getting in there.

4. put ear plug in the barrel. it should expand enough to also keep paint off the crown vitals.

5. clean everything you want to paint by rubbing it down with the rubbing alcohol

6. scuff everything you want to paint good with the scotch brite pad. this gives the paint something to bite to and the finish will last much longer. I avoid scuffing the very end of the barrel (the crown). make sure to get all the little recesses, nooks, and crannies.

7. clean everything again by rubbing it down with rubbing alcohol and avoid touching anything with your bare fingers. (Paint doesn't stick to oily finger prints well)

8. lay or hang everything out and paint with your base coat (for mine i like to use tan as the base). do a couple-three coats follow the directions on the can. Don't try to get it all covered with your first coat of paint. multiple light coats work much better than trying to glob it all on in one coat.

9. let everything dry for a little while. If you're using the Krylon camo it dries to the touch fast.

10. if you laid everything out rotate all your parts and paint the other side. let that dry

11. scatter the card board strips randomly over your parts and spot paint or tiger stripe the next desired color over the strips. let dry for a couple minutes.

12. pick up the strips

13. repeat step 11 with the next color. then repeat steps 11-12 till all the desired colors have been used.

14. rotate the parts and repeat steps 11-13 again

15. once you're done painting pull the tape off, ear plug out the barrel, and rag out of the action

16. it's best to let the paint dry for a few hours but i never can wait. if the paint is dry enough reassemble the rifle.

17. let the paint cure for a couple days before hitting the woods.

You can also do stincels

here's another one i did the stock on a while back

if you have questions ask.

Edited June 1, 2010 by fastbs
to much to get right the first time

[Westwindmike]

That's really cool camo, but doesn't the overspray get on the couch and carpet?

[Guest Jamie]

That's really cool camo, but doesn't the overspray get on the couch and carpet?

Yeah, but since it's camouflage you can't really see it.

J.

[towerclimber37]

Thanks, Fastbs!

very informative!

[Kenstaroni]

Add in a laundry bag liner and you get Snakeskin Camo

[fastbs]

i've seen a few nice ones with the snake skin pattern. gotta try that next

Edited June 2, 2010 by fastbs

[Guest ls2tiger]

That Remington looks wicked,thanks for the tutorial. Someone needs to put together a step by step on that snake skin look for those of us that are creative challenged......hint......hint......

[Kenstaroni]

Snakeskin is pretty easy to do...

Spray rifle sections with randomly dispersed desired colors....lay a laundry bag liner (avaliable at walmart for a couple bucks) closely over the area to be painted. Paint opposite or different colors back over the painted areas.

Example....paint area Tan....lay liner over area....paint area brown...you get brown scales outlined in Tan.

Doing a rifle is sometimes tricky because you need to get the liner close to if not laying directly on top of the rifle to get a good pattern. Too far away and it looks cloudy or you will get no pattern at all. It's a good idea to pick up a bag of clothespins to help hold the material close to the surface. Painting the picatinny rail was interesting to say the least...lol It took me about 4 careful hours to paint the rifle above. I was very meticulus though. Even the charging handle and trigger have a pattern on them...lol

I did my rifle above with Tan, Green, and Brown. I would recommend trying some different color combinations on a test area like a cardboard box or something to see how much of which colors you like.

I like to follow with a Matte finish acrylic. This keeps the paint from being damaged by gun cleaners. If you do Duracoat you might not have this issue. I used Krylon Flat Camo colors from Wally World. Total materal cost was less than $30.

Good Luck!

[fastbs]

the snake skin look does turn out looking sweet!!!