I'll be the first!

[willis68]

I have collected knives my whole life. I was never one for sharpening them. I have always sent them back to the Manufacturer to get the factory edge put back on. Last year when I was offshore, a welder asked me if I wanted him to sharpen my Spyderco Pacific salt, I let him and 2 hours later he brought it to me with a better edge than it had when new.

The Blade was not scratched in anyway and still looked brand new. He then laid a piece of paper on my desk and filleted it and I was amazed. I asked him to bring his sharpener for me to look at it. Anyway that was enough to convince me to spend $200.00 on the Edge Pro Apex Kit.

I bought it late last year and a few months ago I took it with me offshore and practiced on some older cheap knives. It took me about 2 days or 8 hours until I mastered it and now I can put a polished edge that is sharper than my Microtech knives come from the factory, It is nice never having to rely on anyone else to do this for me, this was money well spent

http://www.edgeproinc.com/Apex-Model-Edge-Pro-System/Apex-4-kit-p7.html

Edited May 3, 2010 by willis68

[Guest Republican]

You cant mess up knife sharpening with this thing. Razor Sharp everytime.

[Guest italia]

You cant mess up knife sharpening with this thing. Razor Sharp everytime.

What is that called? Sorry, can't read the name on it. Thanks!

[Oh Shoot]

What is that called? Sorry, can't read the name on it. Thanks!

Another from Smith's.

Smith's 10 second knife & scissor sharpener | Smith's - The Edge Experts

- OS

[Guest Bronker]

Another from Smith's.

Smith's 10 second knife & scissor sharpener | Smith's - The Edge Experts

- OS

Gosh, Chief, enough with the Smith crush. We get it.

(Busting your chops, Mac! I actually have a couple of the ones you posted!)

[Oh Shoot]

Gosh, Chief, enough with the Smith crush. We get it.

(Busting your chops, Mac! I actually have a couple of the ones you posted!)

Heh heh...

Just answering a question on the last one.

These are all just quickies.

No true knife sharpening guru would use any of them anyway, but some do well enough for many uses.

True sharpening masters will generally use a combination of flat stones or one of the sharpening systems that clamp the blade into an exact angle position.

- OS

[Guest Bronker]

Heh heh...

Just answering a question on the last one.

These are all just quickies.

No true knife sharpening guru would use any of them anyway, but some do well enough for many uses.

True sharpening masters will generally use a combination of flat stones or one of the sharpening systems that clamp the blade into an exact angle position.

- OS

I'm honored to have inherited my great-, great-grandfather's old pocket knife and sharpening stone.

Looks like a hand-hewn and chipped 'flat-rock' basically. It now has a concave side that he must have used as the sharpening side. Not telling how old it is and how many thousands of sharpening strokes it took to carve out.

[Oh Shoot]

I'm honored to have inherited my great-, great-grandfather's old pocket knife and sharpening stone.

Looks like a hand-hewn and chipped 'flat-rock' basically. It now has a concave side that he must have used as the sharpening side. Not telling how old it is and how many thousands of sharpening strokes it took to carve out.

Yeah, have an oldie well worn thick one like that too... 1/2" drop from edge down center.

I used it myself for many years for sharpening our standard fish knives, cheap Old Hickory fillet models. Have a couple of Rapala ones after they came out way back when but still mainly used the Old Hickories.

- OS

[Guest Bronker]

Yeah, have an oldie well worn thick one like that too... 1/2" drop from edge down center.

I used it myself for many years for sharpening our standard fish knives, cheap Old Hickory fillet models. Have a couple of Rapala ones after they came out way back when but still mainly used the Old Hickories.

- OS

I have several Old Hickory knives myself. Use them for rendering out hogs, etc. when we do our own. My buddy has some old hog-killin' knives that are well over 100+ years old. Pretty cool.

[Guest Broomhead]

I use a butcher's sharpening steel, like this:

After watching a butcher, and a weeks worth of practice. I can fix most blades and put a durable, sharp edge on them. I have even used it to hone an axe after I used a file to fix the big gouges. I have stones that I know how to use, but the steel works better, for me, and is much, much easier and faster. Sometimes, when I'm bored, I will strop the blade afterward.

I got my steel from Target for ~$25. My wife gave it to me for my birthday two years ago. It still works just as good. I will wipe it off with a paper towel dampened with 3-in-1 oil.

[G27]

you'll like it Crimson. Takes about all of 5 seconds to use.

I'll be danged, you aren't kidding! I'm amazed at how sharp it got my Gerber Crucial in less than a minute.

Highly recommended!

[Guest Bowdenknxvll]

I have tried most everything. For scandi grinds a benchtone works best. For convex grinds sandpaper over a mousepad, and for flat grinds I have the most luck with a KME sharpener. It is like an EdgePro but less expensive. I have used a Sharpmaker and it does fine for touch ups but I don't use it anymore since I bought the KME and a strop.

[TNRat]

What do you guys recommend for sharpening a pocket knife? I want something cheap but effective.

Anyone have experience with these?

Amazon.com: Lansky 6" Soft Arkansas Bench Stone: Sports & Outdoors

Do you know how to sharpen a knife? If not you are in the right price range but will also need a course stone. I have found the two sided for as little at $10 before. Start with that and something you don't mind scratching up to begin with. You also need a sharpie marker.

[TNRat]

I really need to get educated on sharpening. I understand that some steels are best when sharpened at a 15 degree angle, and others at 20 degrees. There's more to this than I have the knowledge about.

Some steels are better at certain jobs than other steels. Some angles and types of edges are better at certain jobs than other steels. Generally the harder and less resilient the steel the thicker you want the edge so it will hold up to use. The same goes for super soft hardened steels.

Don't worry about all that in the beginning. Get a simple stone you can use in your hand or on a bench and learn to hold a consistent angle. The angles on each side don't even have to match.