S&W .38 spl issue

[ftncityfatboy]

yesterday I was at my sister's house, and she told me the night before it sounded like someone was wiggling the front door handle and trying to get in. She was in the downstairs portion of her house and she keeps her .38 spl in a drawer downstairs. He pulled the hammer back to use as SA and after the incident was over, she went to release the hammer and it had stuck. I tried for several minutes to get the hammer to release and somehow unbeknownst to me I did. Has anyone else had this happen? Did she simply pull the hammer back too far in the heat of the moment or could there be something else? I have shot this pistol several times before in SA mode and had no issues. Humm, all you S&W guys chime in here......

[Hgunner]

I've seen revolvers bind up for a couple of different reasons, mostly related to a dirty

gun. It could be as simple as the case head of a cartridge bound up on the backstrap

or even dirt build up at the forcing cone binding the cylinder. I would do a really good

cleaning and then test with fresh ammo (being very carefull) for function.

Take it out and shoot it if possible and then re-clean.

THIS APPLIES TO S&W REVOLVERS ONLY

DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU HAVE A HAMMER LOCK AS I HAVE

NEVER HAD ONE APART.

1. Use a brass brush and clean forcing cone area aggressively.

2. If visable gunk on backstrap (where firing pin is) use brass brush and clean aggressively.

3. Take an old over caliber bore brush (.40 or .45) and scrub out chambers in cylinder again be aggressive. Make sure rounds seat flush to cylinder face when done and are free, loose in chamber.

4. Carefully inspect the hand opening in the backstrap area, the hand rotates the cylinder make sure its clean and free of obstructions.

DO THE FOLLOWING ONLY IF YOU ARE MECHANICALLY INCLINED

5. Remove the grips. With proper size gunsmith screw drivers remove the three screws holding the sideplate on, mark them and make sure you know which screws came out of which screw holes.

6. Take the wooden handle of a small hammer and rap the grip frame holding the revolver in your hand with the sideplade facing up. After several raps the sideplate will loosen and you can remove it.

7. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE ANY PARTS OR PRY ANY PARTS OUT OF THE ACTION. SPECIAL TOOLS ARE REQUIRED TO REINSTALL.

8. Use a quality gun parts cleaner to spray out the action and q-tips to work out any gunk or dirt. Dry as best you can then lightly lube. Note. If this has a transfer bar saftey it will fall out, the top u shaped portion goes between the firing pin and the hammer, the slotted end goes over the tit/pin on the rebound assy. The rebound assy is the assy at the bottom of the frame between the trigger and grip and has a strong spring inside it. The transfer bar is then held in place by the side plate

when it is re-installed.

9. Re- install the sideplate, there is a small tab on the sideplate and this fits in a slot under under the frame. Place the tab in its slot and then work the slideplate back on by pressing around it. Its a tight fit don't panick and be patient. When the sideplate is back on re-install the screws in the holes from which they came. The screw in the front of the sideplate closest the barrel controls tension on the yoke (what the cylinder rotates on) don't torque it down or the cylinder will be hard to swing out.

10. Test for function

Edited March 12, 2010 by Hgunner

[Westwindmike]

Good tutorial Hgunner!

I think the owner of the revolver needs to be trained a little better in the use of the double action revolver and not go cocking it like in the movies.