First set of reloads won't keep slide open

[analog_kidd]

Hey all, I just pressed my first set of bullets. I took them to the range today and they shot quite well. The only thing is that when I shot the last bullet, my slide does not stay open.

I suspect that there may not be enough powder, as I loaded the minimum. Does that sound right?

I have a Lee Turret Press, and the automatic powder measure device I'm using is set to the .61 mark, which comes out to about 5.6 grains. The next setting on the powder measure is .66, which comes out to 6.0 grains, which is approaching the max capacity of 6.2 grains.

First off, do you think it is safe to move up to the next measure?

Second, if I wanted to charge somewhere in the middle, can I do it with this Automatic Measure?

I can see that reloading could possibly be a new addiction. I just want to get it right.

Thanks for your help.

[nightrunner]

I would think that would be a magazine problem but im no reloader.

[glockster157]

What is your powder type, caliber and bullet weight? Sounds like since you loaded light your not developing enough pressure. If the pressures are low, the cases will usually have a lot of blackening as the gas comes back around the case, the cases are not thrown very far as they are ejected(compared to factory ammo) and primers are completely rounded on the outside shoulders as very little back thrust was created.

[analog_kidd]

I am using Alliant Unique powder. The bullets are 115 grain 9mm hollowpoints that are supposed to be similar in weight and shape to Speer Gold Dot.

I think the magazine is fine, it works perfectly for storebought ammo.

I wish I had thought to keep a few of the spent cases to look for the signs you mentioned. Unfortunately, I just tossed them into my brass bag with all the others. DUH!

[Guest 6.8 AR]

I think you are loading light, too. Go up to the next mark. I usually load a .1-.2 below the max recommended by the manufacturer and have had no problems. but I won't speak on Alliant. Someone else

might, since I use Accurate #5 in 9mm and .45acp.

[gregintenn]

I'd say your hunch is correct. Most factory ammo is loaded for maximum performance; aka maximum load. Most factory guns are designed to function with this ammo.

[glockster157]

I am using Alliant Unique powder. The bullets are 115 grain 9mm hollowpoints that are supposed to be similar in weight and shape to Speer Gold Dot.

I think the magazine is fine, it works perfectly for storebought ammo.

I wish I had thought to keep a few of the spent cases to look for the signs you mentioned. Unfortunately, I just tossed them into my brass bag with all the others. DUH!

I would recommend you try the .66 setting on your powder measure. 6.0 grains of Unique with a 115 JHP as this is well within most loading manual maximums and in my experience they are already pretty conservative. The Alliant web page shows 6.3 grains as max which still leaves you a bit of room for error. Keep your overall length as long as your magazine and chamber will allow as this increases case capacity and lowers pressure also.

One other thing, when you can afford it, get a low priced chronograph to measure velocity. I did not do it for years as they used to be expensive and I never really knew what my loads were doing. Now a good chrono can be had for a 100 bucks and it really makes a difference. You will also discover a lot of loading manuals are exaggerating velocities.

[SpacemanSpiff]

If you have a Lee Auto Disk powder measure, get one of these Lee Auto-Disk Adjustable Powder Charge Bar - MidwayUSA

[LngRngShtr]

if you have any loaded rounds left,..pull one or two and measure the charge with a scale... just to verify your charge weight.. if you don't have a scale,..put it on your next thing to get list...I always verify by weight

From the Alliant guide:

POWDER BUSHING CHARTS

A reloading scale is required to check the nominal weight of a powder charge.

Powder bushings can vary in the charge weight they drop and could vary as much as several grains under certain conditions. Powder density, moisture content, and loading technique can cause a variation from the bushing weights listed on the charts. Also, the loading machine vibration affects charge weights. A complete loading cycle should be completed to assure an average powder charge weight.

When you are talking a spread of 1 , 2 or 4 tenths near max or trying to find that "perfect load" again bushings may not repeat it but a scale will. I learned on a LEE Load-All that bushings will vary LEE instructions with my Load-All stated to check with scale also IIRC.

Also when getting used to working an auto powder measure the press strokes should be smooth and consistent with a pause at the top (down handle) of the ram travel to allow everything to settle in. I am not familiar with the autodisk but have one in my bin of "old gear" but with other designs I find this helps with a good charge weight result..

Crimping will also change the pressures, rifle reloaders refer to it as neck tension, so you may want to check that measurement also

I resize a casing and then taper crimp to .003"-.004" smaller than resized,.. less crimp means less pressure and less velocity with the added chance of projectile setback which is bad as some gun/ammo combinations will pressure spike.

When looking for a new pet load I usually go mid-way between min and max for my semi's then load a spread of 10-15 rounds each to see where the desired result is,taking careful notes and putting the rounds back in the ziploc bags I label to take them from bench to range

Hope this helps,..

John

[analog_kidd]

Everyone, Thanks for the tips. I think I'll go ahead and load some up to the next setting and give them a try.

I think a good scale will definitely be on my short list of things to buy. The one that came with the kit does not seem to be very good. I have difficulty even zeroing the thing out.

[glockster157]

Everyone, Thanks for the tips. I think I'll go ahead and load some up to the next setting and give them a try.

I think a good scale will definitely be on my short list of things to buy. The one that came with the kit does not seem to be very good. I have difficulty even zeroing the thing out.

One other bit of experience on scales as I have been reloading since 1981. You will be tempted to get a electronic scale. I have tried several and they are ok but I have found them finicky. Nice to have to to quick checks of bullet weights and such but a good beam scale is absolutely invaluable.

I would recommend the RCBS 5-0-5 and if you can afford it the RCBS 10-10. I have used my 10-10 since 1987 and it is still dead on accurate and I have not had to buy the first battery for it.

[leroy]

Everyone, Thanks for the tips. I think I'll go ahead and load some up to the next setting and give them a try.

I think a good scale will definitely be on my short list of things to buy. The one that came with the kit does not seem to be very good. I have difficulty even zeroing the thing out.

Analog:________

For what it's worth; always check the bullet weight and velocity published for factory loads and use that data to pick a handload out of your loading manual. That being said; dont necessarily use Cor Bon or Double Tap (...high velocity stuff...) as the source for velocity data. Use the Remington, Winchester, Federal, etc. (...you get the picture...); as they are the "normal" velocity range for the caliber you are loading. Consult several reloading sources (...I like lyman, speer, and hornady... also, factory reload data from Hogdon, Alliant, etc..). Semiauto pistols have to have the "right" combination of impulse energy to operate the slide. That "right" combination is usually a pretty quick powder - factory bullet weight combination that matches are exceeds the factory velocity. They are finicky when it comes to handloading. You can play around with revolver loads a bit; but the auto handloads have to be pretty close to the factory data.

Hope this heips

Kind regards,

Leroy

[Guest pig832]

I too reload with a lee turret press, and powder measure, first, do what the other poster said and get the micro measure to go into the lee powder measure in place of the discs. Those discs will not give you the same amount of grains depending on the powder, since powders are different (some tubular, some round, etc) Another thing, sad to say, is every once in a while those lee powder measures don't give the same amount of powder, you have to be pretty aggressive on the powder stroke. I put a powder checker in the turret behind the powder measure just to make sure.

[Guest FroggyOne2]

One other bit of experience on scales as I have been reloading since 1981. You will be tempted to get a electronic scale. I have tried several and they are ok but I have found them finicky. Nice to have to to quick checks of bullet weights and such but a good beam scale is absolutely invaluable.

I would recommend the RCBS 5-0-5 and if you can afford it the RCBS 10-10. I have used my 10-10 since 1987 and it is still dead on accurate and I have not had to buy the first battery for it.

I have to agree that one needs a scale.. a beam scale is good.. I personally have moved away from a beam scale (actually wore it out).. I now use a Acculab VIC-123.. I love it.. acurate and allows me to measure to the .02 hundreth of a grain.