smith wesson 642 snub

[bayouvol]

I recently bought a 642 from a local shop. It's been a week and I finally got to put some rounds through it. The rounds are all over the place, but mainly to the right. At seven yards I was barely able to hit a gallon milk jug. I am normally a pretty good shot. I was able to keep my keltec p11 centered up from that distance. So, a couple of questions? What bullet weight is the 642 sighted in for? Next, Could there be something wrong with the gun? Need help. I would like to keep a revolver because of hurting my wrist, but if it is not accurate past seven yards then I may need something else.

[Trekbike]

What ammo where you shooting? It does take a little practice with snubs due to the heavy trigger and short sight picture.

Don't give up too quick as the 642 is a great gun.

[gregintenn]

Are you left handed?

[bayouvol]

I fired it both left and right handed. I used some reloads, some remington factory loads and even some 135 grain +p. I would think it was me if the shots had been all over, but most were to the right so I don't know. Could still be me.

[LngRngShtr]

http://www.neshooters.com/awerbuck.pdf

Here is a modern error chart,.. This document was developed by Louis Awerbuck. 2 handed semi-auto but should give you some food for thought

Short sight radius will really magnify sight error,.. you can actually shoot pretty straight with a snub once you get used to it.. Aslo not squeezing your whole hand while taking in the long ( compared to the KelTec) DA trigger pull will get you closer to center

Hope this helps,.

John

[gregintenn]

I can make a very nice holster for a 642.

[gregintenn]

The reason I asked is because I'm left handed. I can shoot a 642 about as well as any revolver I've met, but I shoot some revolvers waaaaaaaaaaaay to the right. Namely, Ruger single actions. I'm not sure why, but I'm looking into it. Your input could help. Thanks, Greg

[ShamGlock]

You just gotta practice. 642 is a great gun snubbies just take some gettin' used to.

[jaredshs]

Start using Speer Lawman 158gr+P practice rounds. Take a 9 inch white paper plate

with a 2 inch magic marker circle in the center. Start your shooting practice at what

ever range you can put all five rounds in the 2 inch circle and gradually move out

from there. You may find yourself "starting" at five or ten feet, it dosen't matter===just keep working at it. When your not at the range shooting, practice

at home with empty gun....dry firing.

[Guest davidz71]

While on the range, when I see someone who is right hand with rounds to the right, I check trigger pull and see if it is accompanied by "heeling" or "breaking the wrist" which will place rounds a little high to the right or low to the right respectively. This diagnosis has worked for me for years as a firearms instructor.

[Guest 270win]

I sent my 642 to S&W for an action job to smooth out the trigger. It costs about 80 bucks. It is well worth the money and makes the trigger smooth as butter. The triggers on new 642's are very very stiff compared to older S&W revolvers. Pick up an old S&W revolver at a shop or show and you'll notice how smooth the DA trigger is compared to your 642. You'll be happy with the S&W factory action job.

[bayouvol]

Is the 642 sighted in from Smith using 158 standard pressure? I am trying to determine if the bullet weights will cause that much variation in impact.

[jaredshs]

My wife's 637 is dead on at 25 yards with 158 gr Speer +p lawman.

[Sandman]

When I first shot my 642 I was having similar problems. I'm a decent shot and although I could hit my target, I wasn't very accurate with it. The next time out, I tried pulling the trigger halfway back (right before the "shooting" point), re-aimed the gun, and finish pulling the trigger. Once I got use to the feel doing it this way, I went back to "normal" trigger pulls and it helped significantly. Hope this helps you.

[Guest cheez]

I sent my 642 to S&W for an action job to smooth out the trigger. It costs about 80 bucks. It is well worth the money and makes the trigger smooth as butter. The triggers on new 642's are very very stiff compared to older S&W revolvers. Pick up an old S&W revolver at a shop or show and you'll notice how smooth the DA trigger is compared to your 642. You'll be happy with the S&W factory action job.

+ 1 Trigger job will help on just about any revolver.

[bayouvol]

Well, it must be me. I took my 642 down to the local range where a gentleman who shoots snubs often could try it out. At 7 yards he put 4 out of 5 on a 2inch shoot and see. I will go back and try to find out why I pull to the right. Thanks for your help and I will look at the link showing typical causes.

[DAdams]

Improper grip and trigger finger placement really amplify poor performance with snubs.

Also 7-10 yards is about all I really care about since these are the classic up close and personal revolvers.

I settled on Speer Gold Dot Plus P 135 grain for practice and carry. With these guns you really need to just shoot the heck out of what you plan on carrying IMO.

You can dry fire the X42 to your hearts content. The trigger will begin to smooth out after about 2000 pulls. Hand strength is also important so while driving work those muscles.

Snub Training – Stocks and Grip Strength

Here is how the Master, Jerry Miculek recommend holding a 642. Note the finger placement.

Remember these are COM, point and shoot revolvers. They can be challenging and yet nothing is more rewarding than the mastery.

I wasn't a big fan of the standard grips. Try some Hogue Monogrips to start with. Then if you plan on pocket carrying get some Hogue Bantams.

I prefer the Crimson Trace 405s myself. I have them on two J frames.

Bantams on the left. 642 and 442 in a Smart Carry. TN reload.

Here is a J Frame with the Hogue Monogrips, which if you plan on using the revolver for around the house, IWB or OWB is just a great grip.

You may find the following insightful:

The Theory of the Snubnose

Edited March 4, 2010 by DAdams
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[redfsr]

I shoot a 640-1 and can group pretty well out to about 15 yards as that is as far out as I've shot with it. I used to be all over the place with it but after painting the front sight bright orange and getting a feel for the sight picture, I shoot it better than some of my autos. That gun made me a real fan of wheel guns. I carry it almost exclusively now. I'm still amazed at how accurate those short barrels can be.

I use the same thumbs forward grip as I do with my autos. I let them ride the cylinder. After hundreds of rounds I haven't been burned by any gasses.

Edited March 4, 2010 by redfsr

[GLOCKMEISTER]

its a great gun but if you cant solve you issue take it in and let a gunsmith in your area look at it. We had to send some back to Smith last year for rifleing problems. We had two that left the factory ... get this... WITH NO RIFLEING IN THE BARREL AT ALL!!!

They were shooting all over the place keyholing.

[Trekbike]

WITH NO RIFLEING IN THE BARREL AT ALL!!! They were shooting all over the place keyholing.

Were they consecutive serial numbers or very close? I hope they were limited to a small batch due to some freak situation at the factory.

I guess that shows you can never assume anything.

[gregintenn]

its a great gun but if you cant solve you issue take it in and let a gunsmith in your area look at it. We had to send some back to Smith last year for rifleing problems. We had two that left the factory ... get this... WITH NO RIFLEING IN THE BARREL AT ALL!!!

They were shooting all over the place keyholing.

I imagine collectors would pay a premium for an example of this.

[GLOCKMEISTER]

they will, and we were goign to try and sell them... but we determined they may actually not be legal to own at that point, you know being a smoothbore shorter then 18in and such.

[DAdams]

Good point Glockmeister. I recall those issues being reported and had forgotten that.