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AK Build


pegasusrider

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Not hard with the right tools. Bare minimum you need a rivet tool. Modified bolt cutter works well.

Removing barrel pin can be difficult without a press.

Barrel can be pulled from trunnion with a gear puller and pressed in with a threaded rod. Pressing barrel with a trunnion support on a press is better.

Shoot me a PM.

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Guest TwoLaneBlackTop

If you do not already have the tools why bother?

The only reason it became so popular to build your own AK was because it was so cheap to do but the days of cheap parts kits with factory barrels are long gone. Back when the AK kit building trend started in 2002 or so The Chief sold krinkov kits for about $250, like new Polish kits (fixed or under-folder) were $150, AMD-65 kits with matching numbers as low as $60 at tapco! AK-74 kits when they showed up en-mass during 2004 were only $200 to $250 in new de-miled condition even with matching number bayonets! Those days will not return.

Because the parts kits were so cheap it was worth making or paying someone to fab you up a riveting jig and barrel pressing jig but these days? Now even the crummy condition Romanian non-matching kits can bring $250, add in another $100 for a NDS receiver, another $75 for various U.S. compliance parts (trigger group, piston, brake, etc..) and finally $15 for a rivet and center support and this totals out to..... $440 and still there is the cost of a rivet jig and barrel pressing jig (you can find them for about $150 for the pair) and you will need a 12 ton hydraulic press ($100 at harbor freight) even then you might find some rivets like the trigger guard rivets difficult to do and you might just need a special jig for them..... It keeps adding up.

If you want an AK it is cheaper to just buy one as of now, if you already have a parts kit laying around that you bought cheap there are various qualified AK builders around that you can pay to build your rifle or just sell the kit and buy a complete AK.

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Anyone willing to share techniques used to drive the front trunnion rivets? I'm concerned about marring the head. I'm familiar with bucking rivets in aircraft, but this has me a bit apprehensive. Has anyone used the heat the rivet and then buck it method? If so, did it work ok without blemishing the head? My kit is a Romy G, and I just want it to look good when it's finished. Thanks.

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Guest TwoLaneBlackTop
Anyone willing to share techniques used to drive the front trunnion rivets? I'm concerned about marring the head. I'm familiar with bucking rivets in aircraft, but this has me a bit apprehensive. Has anyone used the heat the rivet and then buck it method? If so, did it work ok without blemishing the head? My kit is a Romy G, and I just want it to look good when it's finished. Thanks.

The best way to do the rivets by yourself is to purchase or build a "Plinkers rivet jig" and use a 12 ton or greater press.

Plinker7.62s Rivet Press: The ultimate press for AK Rivets - Quarterbore's Forums

This is by far the best way to rivet on your own, but buying the tooling to only build one AK is just not worth it. You would be better of selling your G kit for $200 to $250 or so and then buy a complete rifle.

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The best way to do the rivets by yourself is to purchase or build a "Plinkers rivet jig" and use a 12 ton or greater press.

Plinker7.62s Rivet Press: The ultimate press for AK Rivets - Quarterbore's Forums

This is by far the best way to rivet on your own, but buying the tooling to only build one AK is just not worth it. You would be better of selling your G kit for $200 to $250 or so and then buy a complete rifle.

Thanks Two Lane,

At those prices I would have to pass. Don't suppose he has a rental unit, do you? They look sturdy enough that even a klutz would have a hard time damaging one. Even if one was damaged, he could charged for the damaged part, out of the deposit. I'd be interested in renting one, if the logistics weren't too complicated. Thanks again. Where is he located?

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Guest TwoLaneBlackTop

Pinker is just the username of the guy that designed, built and tested the jig on the old gunsnet AK47 forum. If you search around there are several that build and sell the jigs. When kit building was more popular there were a few jigs that were constantly sold at a good price, the intention of the low price was for people to keep passing the jig on once they used it. This might be going on still.

For the cost of a jig and rivets once you pay shipping you could about pay for a build and refinish service by one of the better AK builders. In-Range in Kodak TN is taking work right now and they have reasonable prices.

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Pinker is just the username of the guy that designed, built and tested the jig on the old gunsnet AK47 forum. If you search around there are several that build and sell the jigs. When kit building was more popular there were a few jigs that were constantly sold at a good price, the intention of the low price was for people to keep passing the jig on once they used it. This might be going on still.

For the cost of a jig and rivets once you pay shipping you could about pay for a build and refinish service by one of the better AK builders. In-Range in Kodak TN is taking work right now and they have reasonable prices.

Thanks. I've been doing some of that Jethro Bodine "cyphering", and being an ex ol' aircraft rivet smasher, I'll probably get something cheap figured out. I have a press, and lots of shop tools, so I'll get it figured out somehow. I've got an Sk I can shoot in the meantime.

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All you need is a pneumatic air hammer/chisel and a couple of bucking bars. If you drill out the head of the rivet in the both the bucking bar and the air hammer end it will form the rivets for you. You will have to make an offset bucking bar for the ones near the mag well and other "one per side" rivets. It is easier to use the modified bolt cutters for these. I built a hybrid using screws and rivets and it had zero problems. That is when kits were $89.00 and it was just for sh*&ts and giggles.

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