Jump to content

Any experienced wood refinishers in the house?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a small chest of drawers that I am planning on using next to my computer desk for disks, paper, dictionary, etc., as the computer desk has no drawers. Here is the problem, it is the wrong tint. :)

The computer desk color (comparing to the Minwax stain chart) is similar to "Colonial Maple # 223", the chest of drawers is not really close to anything on the color chart but is in the range of "Golden Oak #210B or Ipswich Pine #221". The chest has only been stained, no poly or other "top coat" finishes have been applied.

I have never done any kind of wood work, much less finishing so I am an extreme wood finishing newbie. How do I go about getting the chest of drawers to the right tint? Do I have to get the existing stain out of the wood somehow and if so how? Or can I just go over what is already there with the new stain? :x:

Thanks in advance for all advice......

  • Replies 8
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest jackdm3
Posted
:x: Just marking the thread so I can track it. Gonna learn me sumpin' here.
Posted (edited)
One of my customers. Great guys.

Middle Tennessee Cabinets

105 College St, Liberty, TN 37095

615-536-5312

:x: I am 5.2 (google map) miles from there as I sit now and I've never heard of them (probably cause I have never needed to know about cabinet people before). Recon they would give advise or are you suggesting I take the problem to them?

Edited by hardknox00001
Posted (edited)
I have never done any kind of wood work, much less finishing so I am an extreme wood finishing newbie. How do I go about getting the chest of drawers to the right tint? Do I have to get the existing stain out of the wood somehow and if so how? Or can I just go over what is already there with the new stain? :shrug:

Thanks in advance for all advice......

I'm not a professional refinisher but I am a professional carpenter. If the wood doesn't have any varnish, polyurethane, or other top coat on it, and is a lighter color stain than what you want to match, you might be able to lightly sand it and stain directly over it, but it will be hard to match the color. To really do the job right you will need to get ALL of the old stain off. That means lots of sanding. You can use stripper if the finish is built up heavily on the wood, but stripper won't take the finish out of the wood grain. You have to do that with sandpaper.

This is the way that I do it: Start with 80 or 100 grit paper and sand everything down good, getting all of the old stain off. Then switch to 150 grit and sand it all again to make it smoother. Then switch to 220 grit to get it smooth enough to refinish. You can skip the 150, but that means you'll have to work twice as hard with the 220. After you sand everything down smooth with the 220, wipe everything down with a tack cloth to get all of the dust off. Then you can put your first finish coat on. After the first coat, lightly sand it again with 320 grit paper(the stain will raise the grain which needs to be sanded back down) and wipe it down with a tack cloth. Keep adding finish coats, sanding with 320 grit between each coat and wiping it down with a tack cloth until you get the finish you want. Then add several protective coats of polyurethane(whatever sheen matches your other furniture) to make the finish more durable. Again, lightly sand with 400 grit and wipe down with a tack cloth between each coat.

ETA: I am assuming that this chest of drawers is made of solid wood, right? If it is made of plywood, be very careful not to sand too deeply. Plywood only has a thin veneer on top and if you get through that, it's ruined. The veneer on most of the plywood I see nowadays is getting thinner and thinner. The birch plywood we are getting anymore has a veneer that is maybe 1/64" thick, if that. It doesn't take much sanding at all to cut right through it.

Edited by USMCJG
Posted

Short answer is that it is nearly impossible to match something that has already been stained before. You might can get it close, but it will not be exactly right. I worked in a cabinet shop off and on for about 9 years, and the only way I know of to get good results from this is good old fashion elbow grease. You need some sand paper and time. I would start will about a 120 grit, sand with the grain when possible, and take your time. Woodworking is one thing that I believe the best results are an indication of time spent on it. After you have gotten mostly fresh wood with 120, procede to 180 grit. This grit may be the final grit, but if you can still see sanding marks or scratches, you will have to go a 220 grit. Most people like to finish the process with steel wool. Generally a OOOO rating. Remember to use a block on flat surfaces and a rod on concave surfaces if you can find something to match the profile of the wood. This will keep the grain level. The end grain of the wood will be the most problematic, but like I said, it is almost impossible to get it perfect. Different woods will produce better results than others. If it is oak, you can pretty well count on not getting all the old stain off. I hope this helps, and just be patient. If you do a crappy job, you will always regret it, but if you do a good job, you will have a thing of beauty that you will enjoy.

Posted

USMC and Dat are right on target. I am NOT a professional wood worker, but I have dabbled in it for 30 or so years as the need came up. You should be able to match it pretty closely of you put forth the effort. As stated, since there isnt any top coat on it you dont need any chemical stripping, but you will need a lot of sanding. Good luck on your project. When done post a picture or two to let us see your handy-work.

I am about to build a custom sized book case. Which means I will have to go ahead and bite the bullet and get the edger/joiner that I have been putting off for way too long. LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

TRADING POST NOTICE

Before engaging in any transaction of goods or services on TGO, all parties involved must know and follow the local, state and Federal laws regarding those transactions.

TGO makes no claims, guarantees or assurances regarding any such transactions.

THE FINE PRINT

Tennessee Gun Owners (TNGunOwners.com) is the premier Community and Discussion Forum for gun owners, firearm enthusiasts, sportsmen and Second Amendment proponents in the state of Tennessee and surrounding region.

TNGunOwners.com (TGO) is a presentation of Enthusiast Productions. The TGO state flag logo and the TGO tri-hole "icon" logo are trademarks of Tennessee Gun Owners. The TGO logos and all content presented on this site may not be reproduced in any form without express written permission. The opinions expressed on TGO are those of their authors and do not necessarily reflect those of the site's owners or staff.

TNGunOwners.com (TGO) is not a lobbying organization and has no affiliation with any lobbying organizations.  Beware of scammers using the Tennessee Gun Owners name, purporting to be Pro-2A lobbying organizations!

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to the following.
Terms of Use | Privacy Policy | Guidelines
 
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.