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Epoxy or concrete anchors for my safe?


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My safe is in place and is too heavy for me to move (approx 900lbs). I want to bolt it down to the slab and went out and bought some red head trubolt concrete anchors (5 1/2 long by 1/2) ITW Red Head Trubolt

I was talking to a guy that I work with and he said that I would be better off using threaded rod and epoxy so now I am confused about what to do.

I can not move the safe but I guess I could squirt enough epoxy down the hole that I drill however it seems the anchors will be easier. What do you think?

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Guest jackdm3

I've done LOTS of anchoring with a hammer drill and various length 1/2 bolts. The last few required epoxy because the concrete was brittle and wound up leaving a hole wider than the 1/2" bit I was using. Your safe weighing in at 900 lbs should be imposing enough. Anyway, I would do this:

*Drill 1/2" hole with hammer drill and appropriate bit only so deep that you will have half a nut of thread on your anchor bolt exposed when it is to be fully inserted, allowing for the height of the nut and the washer. Use a pencil as a depth gauge. You don't want to go too deep.

*Test it for fit. If you can easily insert the entire bolt, the hole is too wide and will need properly mixed epoxy deep into the hole. A helpful hint--if you have a smaller bit, use it to chew up the bottom sides of the hole to created a bell shape. This will prevent the top of the hole from being egged out as you angle drill at the bottom. A batch of dried epoxy surrounding the bottom end of a 6" bolt is near impossible to lift out with prybars and ordinary human strength.

*On a loose bolt, when you are sure of your depth, put a washer on and then the nut, but leave the nut at the top of the bolt so that when you hammer, you don't collapse the threads. (Important to not screw yourself in case you later need to remove everything and take the safe with you.) A two pound hammer us sufficient. Ordinary hammers don't cut it.

**Use the anchor bolt! Not simple threaded rod. The anchor bolts are made for hammering, which you will probably do, even with epoxy, and anchor bolts have much greater holding strength than the flexible and ordinary threaded rod.

Edited by jackdm3
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I dunno if it is true or not, but it makede sense to me. I was told that a safe on a concrete slab will draw moisture from the concrete and may rust at some point. The guy told me you should wood between the two. Same theory with water heaters too.

Back to our regularly scheduled thread.

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I dunno if it is true or not, but it makede sense to me. I was told that a safe on a concrete slab will draw moisture from the concrete and may rust at some point. The guy told me you should wood between the two. Same theory with water heaters too.

Back to our regularly scheduled thread.

Wood will also wick moisture from concrete and eventually rot unless you use treated. Why not use some rubber gasket material like they do for bolting air compressors down if you're worried about rust.

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I did not use treated plywood unfortunately. I was looking to avoid the thermal transfer from the floor to the safe and just used what I had laying around. Thanks for giving me something else to worry about (heh heh) :biglol:

When I bought the safe I thought that 900lbs was a lot too but I was able to move it out of its old home and in to mine with the help of a friend and a furniture dolly. It was not easy but we were able to do it. Now that it is loaded with stuff I am sure it weighs more than that and might not be as easy as it was empty.

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We do a lot of this kind of work for DOD, anchoring safes, vault doors, grating and just about anything you can think of for a secure area. About 90% of the time for a safe we use a redhead wedge anchor in solid concrete with a weld on the treads to prevent the nut from being removed.

I also believe a vapor barrier of some kind is a good ideal.

I was told once by an inspector all the work we do is a deterrent just to slow criminal down and maybe sit off an alarm.

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As long as your concrete was of the correct type, mixed properly and has cured appropriately normal Redheads would be sufficient. If there is any doubt about any of the above, use some epoxy for extra assurance. Jackdm3 is right - it would take a lot more than a person with a prybar to get that out of its mount.

A vapor barrier is certainly recommended if you are on bare concrete.

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A lot of thieves are going to cut the safe

This is especially true with a residential security container, aka a typical gun safe.

I recommend if you own a sawzall that you keep it stored in the safe. No need to provide the proper tools to a criminal.

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This is especially true with a residential security container, aka a typical gun safe.

I recommend if you own a sawzall that you keep it stored in the safe. No need to provide the proper tools to a criminal.

You guys are making me paranoid but you have some great tips.

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seems like 900 lbs would be enought to stop just about anyone without anchors unless they bring a forklift to rob you.

You would be surprised how easy it is to move a 6ft tall 900lb safe if you have a low dolly and two somewhat large guys.

Have a look at this guy moving what appears to be a pretty heavy safe up stairs with a special dolly.

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