Primers

[Guest Sec334]

Since I am beginning my reloading career, my question is are Federal primers any good ? CCI primers are hard to find at the moment and I have found a few Federals. Also, on the reloading data will I have to make any adjustments to the grains if I use these.

Thanks for any info

Rick

[Guest FroggyOne2]

Yeah Federal primers are good.. now as for the adjustment in powder.. well that is a different ballgame.. first of all..what are you loading for ?

[Guest Sec334]

38 special, 357 and maybe 9mm.

I have some reloading books on order, but I thought I would post the question so I would have a heads up.

Thanks

Rick

[Guest Astra900]

Unless you are pushing your loads close to maximum, There's not much to worry about. You may notice some changes in accuracy, but I seriously doubt it. I use whatever primers happen to be cheapest most of the time, never have a problem. Fact of the matter, I started using Wolf primers for my .308 target loads, and actually saw my groups tighten a bit, go figure.

As far as pistols are concerned, I've changed primers many times, I can't tell any difference. Only exception would be going from a standard primer to a magnum primer, could raise chamber pressure; but even with that, I've loaded very light .38's with magnum primers before, I can't tell any difference.

Summary: Be safe, but don't worry about it too much.

[Guest FroggyOne2]

Ok.. here we go! First.. take the data from the reloading books or company websites. There are two thoughts of how to start to find a working load. One is to just start at the lowest and work up.. till you find a load that works. The other is to take the max that is listed and reduce it 10% and start there.. I like the later, now.. don't worry about the primer and trying to adjust from what is in the book because you are starting from 10% below the "lawyer driven" max listed. Now every firearm has a node. One where the best accuracy will occur. Now.. Since your loading for the 38, 357 and 9mm, the best thing to do is start at that 10% reduced load and load five, increase one tenth of a grain at a time and load five for each subsequint load. Depending on your ability to shoot well off a bench.. you should find a load that groups better than the others. Half the fun of it is trying to find that combo that works best in that particular firearm.

With your wheel gun. I would mark (temp of course) One those cylenders will or may throw the round out of the group.. if you discover this.. then you will want this cylender marked so that when your testing for accuracy, you can advoid using that particular cylender.

[Guest FroggyOne2]

Only exception would be going from a standard primer to a magnum primer, could raise chamber pressure; but even with that, I've loaded very light .38's with magnum primers before, I can't tell any difference.

Summary: Be safe, but don't worry about it too much.

There is a difference in primer compound in most brands.. except in the Wolf brand.. magnum primers have the same amount as the standard.. but do have a thicker harder cup.

[Guest Sec334]

This is unreal, I ask, I guess a simple question, and get two GREAT answers in a few minutes. You guys have saved me hours or days of research. As I said "I'm starting my reloading career" and the info I find in the reloading manuals I have either list cci or winchester primers. I didn't think there would be that much difference in primers or maybe even in brass. I have an old speer book and a new hodgdon manual to read while my new books are on the way. I will read and study for a while before I start reloading and may post a question or two now and then.

Thanks for helping a beginner get started on the right foot.

Rick

[Cannon Fodder]

***Warning nothing I say may be correct***

Lee recomends only CCI and Winchester primers on their presses. They state that "Other brands, especially Federal, can explode with sufficient force to seriously injure the user or persons nearby."

I spoke with one of my co-workers about this, he stated to me that he has never had a failure with Federal because they were a little hotter and softer than CCI.

Is there any validy to this? I wonder if Lee had a lawsuit where someone blew their eye out or thumb off?

[glockster157]

I cannot begin to tell you how many Federal small and large rifle primers I have loaded with two different Lee hand primers. I wouldn't worry about it, but...always wear safety glasses when working with primers, they are the real volatile item in the reloading process.

[gearyr]

I have been using Winchester small pistol primers in loading 9mm. Reloaders Bench in Mt. Juliet, TN didn't have any Win. So I bought Federal SP primers. I am using a 115 grain FMJ, with 6.0 grains of Power Pistol, and col at 1.120. Thisa the load with the Win. SP primers. The Hornady 6th Edition has the max load at 6.7 grains of PP. I have used CCI and Win. primeres with no problem. I also, picked up 1000 CCI LR primeres while I was there. Thanks, gearyr

[Guest Grout]

What's the frequency Kenneth?

[Guest Astra900]

I had to do the same thing. I hate federal primers. They are soft for one, and another, WHY THE HECK DO THEY PUT THEM IN THOSE RIDICULOUS BOXES!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[timcalhoun]

I couldn't find SP primers and I had to buy federal SPM primers. Just had to bump the powder down one tenth. No, big deal. I wish this shortage would end.

[deerslayer]

Nothing wrong w/ Federal primers. A lot of competitive shooters actually prefer them--the softer primer is more reliable with titanium strikers/firing pins, tricked-out 1911s, etc. Be proud that you were even able to find SP primers.

[Guest DaG]

Does anyone know if Reloaders Bench still has primers?

BTW, anyone that doesn't like Federal SP primers, I'll gladly take'm off your hands, just tell me where to send the funds to.

DaG

[alwayspackin]

Has anybody used magnum primers in 9mm or 40. I was told to reduce the load by 10% and it would be fine. Anybody have any suggestions. I am very new to reloading so any advice will help.

[Guest goomba]

Ive just started reloading myself.

I picked up small pistol magnum primers by accident...(I was just happy to find small pistol primers.) so I called my buddy thats been reloading for years.

he said as long as I stay around the start load from my Lee data book, I should be fine.... I'm also shooting just the .38special right now. but he did say not to play to above the start load.

I assume you would be fine with a 9 or 40 also. but I would of course take some precautions with the first few rounds fired.

[Curiousgb]

Has anybody used magnum primers in 9mm or 40. I was told to reduce the load by 10% and it would be fine. Anybody have any suggestions. I am very new to reloading so any advice will help.

You should be fine. I loaded a thousand rounds of 9mm using magnum primers (all I could find). I used MY standard load and it didn't cause any issues.

[timcalhoun]

Has anybody used magnum primers in 9mm or 40. I was told to reduce the load by 10% and it would be fine. Anybody have any suggestions. I am very new to reloading so any advice will help.

No big deal. Bump your powder down a tenth or two if you are near max. When I can't find regular small pistol I use magnums and bump them down a tenth it will usually give me the same average FPS.

[Guest weemsf]

I have used small magnum primers in 9MM's several times. I would not use a max load, but a moderate to warm load with a magnum primer will not over pressure things.

[towerclimber37]

I've never used them and all the books I've ever read have told me to NEVER use them.

[Guest Matthew]

Anyone have any experience using magnum primers in 270 Winchester? I've got a bunch (5000) that I accidentally ordered and I am stuck with them. LR magnum primers.

I've discussed it with another friend. He uses them. He's backed off the powder charge and has had no indications of overpressure or other problems with his gun. I wondered if anyone else has had experience with this?

I also wanted to throw in a comment about understanding what the book says about this. I know nothing recommends the use of magnum rifle primers in this cartridge.

Thanks

Edited May 10, 2009 by Matthew

[Guest Mugster]

Magnum primers typically burn longer than a standard primer, but not necessarily hotter, and might actually burn at a lower temperature. They are primarily designed to get a heaping wad of slow burning powder going, like in a 7mm or 300 win mag. They may cause pressure decreases or increases vs a standard primer in any particular application. The military uses "magnum" SRP's in 5.56 so they can get good ignition in the arctic at -50F if they have to fight there. The cup is usually harder in a magnum primer as well.

I use "magnum primers" in well, my magnum rifles. I also use them in .223 and .308 self loaders to help resist slamfires. I'd have no problem using them in anything else for plinking or hunting if they cost less than standard primers. Like any component change, start at the minimum in the book and work up.

If you have a real question about a component, call the maker. Sierra, hornady, speer, accurate, etc...they all answer the phone/email, and can give you a pretty good answer to a specific question. Sierra's guys are really good, imo.

[Guest MERRILL]

Anyone have any experience using magnum primers in 270 Winchester? I've got a bunch (5000) that I accidentally ordered and I am stuck with them. LR magnum primers.

I've discussed it with another friend. He uses them. He's backed off the powder charge and has had no indications of overpressure or other problems with his gun. I wondered if anyone else has had experience with this?

I also wanted to throw in a comment about understanding what the book says about this. I know nothing recommends the use of magnum rifle primers in this cartridge.

Thanks

I use magnum primers in my .270. The load is 59.5gr. of RL22 with a 130gr bullet. I cannot tell any difference from normal primers.

[leroy]

Magnum primers typically burn longer than a standard primer, but not necessarily hotter, and might actually burn at a lower temperature. They are primarily designed to get a heaping wad of slow burning powder going, like in a 7mm or 300 win mag. They may cause pressure decreases or increases vs a standard primer in any particular application. The military uses "magnum" SRP's in 5.56 so they can get good ignition in the arctic at -50F if they have to fight there. The cup is usually harder in a magnum primer as well.

I use "magnum primers" in well, my magnum rifles. I also use them in .223 and .308 self loaders to help resist slamfires. I'd have no problem using them in anything else for plinking or hunting if they cost less than standard primers. Like any component change, start at the minimum in the book and work up.

If you have a real question about a component, call the maker. Sierra, hornady, speer, accurate, etc...they all answer the phone/email, and can give you a pretty good answer to a specific question. Sierra's guys are really good, imo.

This is a great bit of information. It parallels my experience with magnum primers. As i remember, magnum primers were developed to help ignition of very slow powders and to help with ignition in extremely cold regions for hunters (both rifle and pistol).

I have interchanged primers (magnum for standard) for both rifle and pistol with no real problems. It is a wise precaution to drop the powder charges 5 to 10% then go back up slowly, watching for pressure signs (if you are close to a max load). Hard extraction or severely cratered primers are a pretty good indication that the load is too hot. For revolvers it's easy to tell how you are doing on easy extraction. You shuld always be able to work the ejector rod with normal finger pressure. With autos, I always look closely at the rimers and case headstamp. If the primers are cratered and the headstamp battered on the auto; you might want to tone em down a little bit.

Hope this helps.

Kind Regards.