DIY parkerizing......

[Guest 70below]

How many on here have done parkerizing themselves? I've been toying with the idea of trying it out on some smaller items (mags, replacement parts, maybe an old worn pistol). I've heard lots of people say that "stove top" parkerizing never looks good, and some that say they've had very good results.

Now......I realize that there is the "right" equipment for the job, and professionals that do it for a living. I don't expect it to be quite the same quality necessarily as if I paid for it, but I want a good decent looking end product.

Whats your prep method?

What products do you use?

What would you say the quality of your finished product is?

[141FE]

I've done quite a bit of it. Most important is the prep. Degrease, glassbead.

Brownell's has a product is very user friendly and reuseable.

I do small items in a stainless steel pot on a hotplate.

I have been very happy with the results. A friend that owns a gun shop asked me to do a 45 slide - he said it looked like a factory job. Your results may vary.

Shoot me a PM if you want to try it.

[LA_357SIG]

I have a home parkerizing setup.

$50 pawn shop 5 gallon air compressor

$99 chinese blasting cabinet off ebay (caulk sides while assembling (not in instructions:mad:)

$50 Maganeese parking and post treatment solution from Lauer Custom $50 stainless 18x6x6 stainless tank (not needed for most jobs)

$10 stainless pot set from Walmart

$15 Aluminum Oxide blasting media from Tractor supply

$20 Candy thermometer, tongs, milsurp rubber gloves, brake cleaner, latex gloves, gallon koolaid pitcher

$10 hotplate. (having a MAAP torch helps getting solution up to 180* faster)

foam earplugs work well for barrel plugs.

I am also happy with my results. I've done barrels, a revolver, misc AR parts, bolts for outdoor fixtures etc. The most work is in the blasting. I boil most small parts first in distilled water (and rinse in distilled water) The only problem is not being to park stainless steel and alloy recievers. I found Brownells Maganeese Parkerizing grey Alumahyde II dosen't match perfectly, but it is close.

tag for pics.

[LA_357SIG]

[1gewehr]

I've used a home parkerizing kit. It's not difficult. The key is preparation. When you think that all the parts have been properly degreased, degrease them again. It only takes the slightest hint of grease or oil to totally ruin a nice, even finish.

[Guest 70below]

I gotta get into this.............I love a nice parkerized finish.........that stuff looks great LA_357sig

[Guest Caveman]

I heard your mom is good at parkerizing, why don't you ask her???

[Guest Dragonman]

Parkerizing isn't hard at all. Make sure the original finish is all off, use some distilled water, get solution to around 190 degrees, dip parts for a couple minutes until the metal stops bubbling, remove. In a condensed version that's the basic premise of the procedure. Some folks have even used their gas grill as a heat source for the park tank on small jobs.

[I_Like_Pie]

YOu can use cheap steel or porcelain pots bought at goodwill also. If you need to do a barrel you can buy two stainless spackeling trays as Lowes and silver solder, braze, or tig them together.

The only thing that makes parkerizing hard is getting the parts free of contaminants first. It is a very rewarding skill/hobby.

[LA_357SIG]

I gotta get into this.............I love a nice parkerized finish.........that stuff looks great LA_357sig

Thanks. I even might do my mosin one day.

[Guest jnkent]

Is there a parkerizing touch procedure for scratches?