Jump to content

Black powder revolver question


Recommended Posts

Posted

Have 1858 blackpowder revlover haven't shot in a long time. I can't remember what amount of powder to use, I was thinking it was about 25 grains. But not positive. Thought I might try it out this muzzle load season. thanks in advance..:tinfoil:

  • Replies 19
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted
Have 1858 blackpowder revlover haven't shot in a long time. I can't remember what amount of powder to use, I was thinking it was about 25 grains. But not positive. Thought I might try it out this muzzle load season. thanks in advance..:tinfoil:

If it's a 36 caliber, 25 grains will be good. If it's a 44, 30 to 35 grains is good.

Kind regrds,

LEROY

Posted
If it's a 36 caliber, 25 grains will be good. If it's a 44, 30 to 35 grains is good.

Kind regrds,

LEROY

It is a .44 thanks :tinfoil:

Posted

Don;t do this until someone more knowledgeable confirms it, but I remember pouring the powder into the chamber, raking it off level with the cylinder, then placing a ball on top of the cylinder full of uncompressed powder and seating the ball, turn cylinder and repeat as necessary.

Posted
Is a revolver legal equipment for muzzleloader season? It doesn't load from the muzzle, hence the name

muzzleloader.

:P I'm not sure, it says that can't be loaded from the breech. So I guess that is something I need to ask about. Maybe I should start another post.

Posted

Yes they are legal Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency - Hunting Equipment & Methods

Hunting Equipment & Methods

Legal Equipment

Deer, Bear, Boar, Elk, and Feral Hog Hunting

  • Muzzleloading percussion cap or flintlock rifles, handguns or shotguns of .40 caliber (.40-inches) minimum. These muzzleloading firearms are legal during any gun season or hunt unless otherwise specified. Muzzleloading firearms are defined as those firearms which are incapable of being loaded from the breech.

Posted
:poop: Thanks 101, I had read that, and that is what I was assuming. I was sure someone would come along and confirm. This a very informative place, glad that I found it. Thanks to all that replied.:P
Posted
Don;t do this until someone more knowledgeable confirms it, but I remember pouring the powder into the chamber, raking it off level with the cylinder, then placing a ball on top of the cylinder full of uncompressed powder and seating the ball, turn cylinder and repeat as necessary.

You may want to do this:

1. Charge the powder -- measure it with the snout on your powder flask. The powder flask snouts screw on and come in graduated sizes; that is, they throw a constent charge of "x" grains of powder. I dont remember the graduations; but folks like dixie gun works and others sell them for the reenactors. ( I think the old "fill er up to the top of the cylinder" thing came from real old timers who used FF powder (you may want to look in an old Elmer Keith "sixgun" book for this one). I wouldnt advise doing it with FFF. Then you compressed the powder charge with the loading lever.)

2. Put in a lubed felt wad. Then the ball. Then compress.

The lubed wad does a couple of things. First, it keeps the powder charge from "chain firing"; which is a multiple cylinder ignition comming from firing one cylinder due to the fire jumping cylinder hole to cylinder hole. Secondly, the lubed wad makes it easier to keep the revolver clean. You can buy the high dollar lubed wads, but i always made them by the thousand by buying one tube of thompson center lube (or any other lube you like), melting the lube in a small pan or old coffee can over low heat, throwing in the wads and stirring them a little bit. The wads will soak the lube right up, and you can use the can to store them once it cools down. The wads and lube probably cost 10 or 15 dollars total, and make one thousand. That way they are cheap and you never run out.

3. Some folks put crisco or lube over the ball to lube it. We never did. Some use the lube over the ball method and get rid of the wad. I dont like that either.

We found that the accuracy with swaged round balls and lubed wads was super. Muzzle loading pistols are a blast to shoot and display amazing accuracy if you take the time to fugure out the right load and get the sights adjusted. The old timers who used the percussion guns were well armed indeed.

Hope this helps.

Kind regards,

LEROY

Posted
You may want to do this:

1. Charge the powder -- measure it with the snout on your powder flask. The powder flask snouts screw on and come in graduated sizes; that is, they throw a constent charge of "x" grains of powder. I dont remember the graduations; but folks like dixie gun works and others sell them for the reenactors. ( I think the old "fill er up to the top of the cylinder" thing came from real old timers who used FF powder (you may want to look in an old Elmer Keith "sixgun" book for this one). I wouldnt advise doing it with FFF. Then you compressed the powder charge with the loading lever.)

2. Put in a lubed felt wad. Then the ball. Then compress.

The lubed wad does a couple of things. First, it keeps the powder charge from "chain firing"; which is a multiple cylinder ignition comming from firing one cylinder due to the fire jumping cylinder hole to cylinder hole. Secondly, the lubed wad makes it easier to keep the revolver clean. You can buy the high dollar lubed wads, but i always made them by the thousand by buying one tube of thompson center lube (or any other lube you like), melting the lube in a small pan or old coffee can over low heat, throwing in the wads and stirring them a little bit. The wads will soak the lube right up, and you can use the can to store them once it cools down. The wads and lube probably cost 10 or 15 dollars total, and make one thousand. That way they are cheap and you never run out.

3. Some folks put crisco or lube over the ball to lube it. We never did. Some use the lube over the ball method and get rid of the wad. I dont like that either.

We found that the accuracy with swaged round balls and lubed wads was super. Muzzle loading pistols are a blast to shoot and display amazing accuracy if you take the time to fugure out the right load and get the sights adjusted. The old timers who used the percussion guns were well armed indeed.

Hope this helps.

Kind regards,

LEROY

+1

Posted

I use 40 grains in my .44 colt old army.

Check with your manufactures data for that gun to be safe.

And be sure you use grease or seals on the cylinder

so you don't get a chain fire! Safety First!

Posted

It is safe on a '58 Remington to load the cylinder full of black powder and then seat the ball. The pistol is built like a brick block house and can easily handle that load.

That said you may find that filling the cylinder fully is not going to give you an accurate shot.

I shoot mine with 25 to 30 grains and get good accuracy. 40 grains not so much.

Do not do it with non BP. I cannot vouch for that.

Posted

Hey, I would get me a catalog from Dixie Gun Works, Union City, TN. You will be able to find them on the internet the catalog is usually on $5 and has a world of info concerning blackpowder guns. The catalog is about 2-3" thick. You won't be disappointed. You will be able to see a lot of there stuff on line but the catalog gives a ton more detail. You will spend hours looking at the products they have to sell and the general reading literature. No I don't work for them.

Posted

If you are going to be using your pistol for deer hunting you will need all the velocity you can get. You are only shooting a 138 gr ball and 35 gr FFFG is the max suggested load and that will give you only around 750 fps muzzle velocity. That is about like the 38 special with the 158 gr lead RN bullet. It don't have a whole lot of punch. So keep your shots really close, under 40 yards, and be able to place that bullet perfectly broad side through the lungs or in the heart or you will loose a deer.

Posted

Thank you all for the info. I'll check on the catalog, and most of the shots will be 35 to 40 yards or less. I thought this would be a little different could be interesting. Thanx again..

Posted

it is considered a muzzloader, since it is loaded from the front. regulations state rifle, shotgun and pistol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

TRADING POST NOTICE

Before engaging in any transaction of goods or services on TGO, all parties involved must know and follow the local, state and Federal laws regarding those transactions.

TGO makes no claims, guarantees or assurances regarding any such transactions.

THE FINE PRINT

Tennessee Gun Owners (TNGunOwners.com) is the premier Community and Discussion Forum for gun owners, firearm enthusiasts, sportsmen and Second Amendment proponents in the state of Tennessee and surrounding region.

TNGunOwners.com (TGO) is a presentation of Enthusiast Productions. The TGO state flag logo and the TGO tri-hole "icon" logo are trademarks of Tennessee Gun Owners. The TGO logos and all content presented on this site may not be reproduced in any form without express written permission. The opinions expressed on TGO are those of their authors and do not necessarily reflect those of the site's owners or staff.

TNGunOwners.com (TGO) is not a lobbying organization and has no affiliation with any lobbying organizations.  Beware of scammers using the Tennessee Gun Owners name, purporting to be Pro-2A lobbying organizations!

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to the following.
Terms of Use | Privacy Policy | Guidelines
 
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.