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Wood finishing question


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I lucked up on a new grip for my S&W 66 today. It's a Laminate grip. The only problem is it does not appear to have a "finish" in it. I was wondering what I could put on the wood to seal it and give it the gloss look of most of the laminates I see.

Here is a picture or 2:

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I have test fitted them and they do fit and look great on it, but I would like to get a protective finish on them before installing them completely.

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Guest Crunchman

I agree with DaveTn. I used Clear Gloss Poly. on several of my laminate rifle stocks. On one that I used Tung Oil, it darkened the colors. On my .17HMR the finish has lasted for 4 years of fairly heavy use with no problems.

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Guest Calaloo

A very good product that I have just recently discovered is made by Minwax and is called Wipe On Poly. It produces an extemely hard, durable finish and is easy to apply. I've used Truoil almost exclusively for years but have switched to WOP. Try it, you'll like it.

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A very good product that I have just recently discovered is made by Minwax and is called Wipe On Poly. It produces an extemely hard, durable finish and is easy to apply. I've used Truoil almost exclusively for years but have switched to WOP. Try it, you'll like it.

That's funny because that's what I bought. In the process of doing it now.

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Looks good.

Thanks,

After looking at it close I decided to wipe a few more coats on.

Info for anyone who is thinking about doing this, word of advice, rub the poly oil in like you are waxing a car, don't worry about the fact that the first 4 of 5 coats won't really have a shine to it. If you don't rub it in the you will have flaws in it (mine does,but they are not shown in the picture), luckily mine is not "cured" (takes 24 hrs to cure) so I just rubbed out the flaws with another coat, I figure another 3 or 4 coats and then let it cure until the weekend before mounting it and it will be great looking.

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Guest H0TSH0T

use some 2000 grit sand paper just to ruff it up a little, so you can use a sandable sealer (so your colors don't change), once dry, take some fine steal-wool and smooth it out, after that i would recommend a satin rub-on poly urethane, let dry and repeat the last step until smooth and thick to your liking. you will have to put on about 10 coats for a factory look. remember to tap up the rubber butt-plate and plastic.

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use some 2000 grit sand paper just to ruff it up a little, so you can use a sandable sealer (so your colors don't change), once dry, take some fine steal-wool and smooth it out, after that i would recommend a satin rub-on poly urethane, let dry and repeat the last step until smooth and thick to your liking. you will have to put on about 10 coats for a factory look. remember to tap up the rubber butt-plate and plastic.

Don't have a rubber but plate or plastic, it's all wood with a hole in the bottom (non threaded) so no worries there.

You my friend are about 12 coats to late with the advice on sandpaper and sealer, I'm using Minwax wipe on poly and it's coming out fine. It does not change the colors.

More pictures to come later this week.:D

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Looks great. Obviously you didn't use my furniture finishing method:

Sand, poly, sand, poly, sand, poly, sand, poly, sand.....

Not turning out

sand, varnish, sand, varnish, sand, varnish

crap

sand, boiled linseed oil, sand, boiled linseed oil

damn!

sand, paint, sand, paint, sand, paint

WTH?

go buy furniture from a store

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