First 1911...barrel bushing?

[SavageSig]

I just picked up a Springfield Mil-spec from G&L and I really couldn't be happier. I want to shoot it some more before I start modifying, but it doesn't hurt to start looking, right?

So I heard replacing the barrel bushing is a good place to start as it gives a good performance return on investment. What should I look for in an aftermarket bushing?

What are other potential mods I can do that will be inexpensive and effective? Perhaps a heavier recoil spring? Does that reduce recoil?

[Guest redbarron06]

Barrel bushing has to be done by a gun smith if I am not mistaken.

I would start with grips and night sites.. Then extended safety and beavertail. then guide rod. May not need to change out the bushing.

[Guest SureShot308]

Get some ammo and shoot the hell out of it.

If it shoots good you probably won't see much out of changing the bushing, if it shoots like crap and it's not your fault then the bushing might help, but they do have to be fitted in most cases.

If you don't like the grips get new ones. the better it feels in your hand the more you will want to shoot it.

The recoil spring you might want to leave for now. if you plan on shooting something other than 230 Grain then maybe.

Night sights are good if you plan on using it for defense, extended controls depending on how big your hands are. I have tiny hands so the extended controls help me a lot running a 1911.

Shoot the hell out of it and see what you like and what you don't like about the gun.

[Mark@Sea]

Congratulations. True to form, the first thing new 1911 owners want to know is how to tinker with it. Usually the second thing they want to know is where to find a gunsmith that will fix it for them.

My very best advice to you is to leave it alone. I would wager the gun performs fine out of the box - it feeds, cycles, ejects and is more accurate than you are. Tolerance stacking in replacement parts, or parts (such as springs) that are purposely out of tolerance, means that "drop-in" parts can lead to trouble. I know of very few people that know the platform better than John Moses did. Are you comfortable with hand-fitting parts in a system you don't understand?

If you want to reduce the recoil, there is one change you can make with fairly minimal ill effect. Take a look at the firing pin stop. See how heavily the bottom edge is radiused? In the original design, the radius was much, much smaller. It was changed, at the request of the Army, in order to make it easier to cycle the slide by hand.

You can buy an unradiused firing pin stop from Brownells, and lightly radius the bottom rear edge yourself. It will reduce felt recoil, at the cost of making it more difficult to cycle the slide by hand.

The part will require handfitting.

Part: BROWNELLS : EGW : Series 70 O/S Firing Pin Stop, CS (296-000-058) - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

Info with pictures:

Irons in the Fire: 1911 firing pin stop modification

A bit more detail:

The M1911 Pistols Organization Forums Site - Amazing reduction in perceived recoil with a simple part change - EGW firing pin stop

Oh, and leave the barrel bushing alone!

PS Full length guide rods are the tools of the devil.

Edited August 31, 2009 by Mark@Sea

[SavageSig]

Thanks for the input fellas. I want to be perfectly clear: I love this pistol as is. It's American made and for once, that seems to mean something. This is a solid, well made pistol and for me, it was a natural fit. Recoil is nothing special. My GP100 in .357 mag easily kicks harder. I plan on keeping it stock for quite some time, but I want to be aware of any options out there and what they supposedly do versus what they actually do. The only mod I see in the near future would be new Wilson 8-round mags. I hear they're the bees knees.

The wood grips are very handsome and comfortable, and I don't plan on replacing them with Hogues or what have you. I actually have a large selection of .45 grips from my paintball collection, but these wood grips are as fine as anything I've got. I'm also happy with the sights I have on there, but who knows what the future holds.

[Guest SureShot308]

Wilson mags are definitely the bees knees.

There are endless possibilities with that gun. look around at the different manufacturer sites. Wilson, Ed Brown, Infinity.... and see what parts they have. when you see something you might like ask around and see if anyone has one you can see. Eventually you will figure out what you want to do or not.

I will warn you the 1911 virus is almost as contagious as BRD.

[SavageSig]

Wilson mags are definitely the bees knees.

There are endless possibilities with that gun. look around at the different manufacturer sites. Wilson, Ed Brown, Infinity.... and see what parts they have. when you see something you might like ask around and see if anyone has one you can see. Eventually you will figure out what you want to do or not.

I will warn you the 1911 virus is almost as contagious as BRD.

What's BRD? Something Rifle Disease?

Edit: Duh. Black Rifle Disease? If so, I plan on catching that one next

[Guest redbarron06]

I have wilson mags and my springer dont like them at all. they feed fine but will not lock the slide back after the last round.

[SavageSig]

I have wilson mags and my springer dont like them at all. they feed fine but will not lock the slide back after the last round.

No kidding....what do you use, may I ask? The regular Springfield 7-round flush fit mags?

[nightrunner]

Only thing I would change is grips, sights, mags. And shoot it alot.

[Mark@Sea]

Wilson mags' reputation for reliability comes from the fact that they mask feed errors by sacrificing control of the round, basically chucking it the last half inch into the chamber.

1911 Magazine Analysis: Conclusion

1911 Magazine Analysis Part 2

I'm pretty sure this is kicking a bunch of folks' sacred cows... but you might want to read the links. Granted, I usually shoot ball ammo, but I have a small quantity (about 25) of GI mags, and 3 wilson 8 rounders. I've found the GI mags to be more reliable.

[Guest redbarron06]

No kidding....what do you use, may I ask? The regular Springfield 7-round flush fit mags?

I am using the 7 round with a pad on the bottom of the mags right now. I still carry a wilson as a back up.

[gregintenn]

I'd spend my extra money on ammo or reloading supplies, a good holster and belt, and extra magazines. Practice will make the combination of you and the pistol more accurate than anything you can add on to it.

[DaveTN]

Since it is your first 1911 you will (like everyone else) be trading and moving up. I would shoot it and enjoy it. Maybe you will get an opportunity to shoot some other 1911’s for comparison.

It's American made and for once, that seems to mean something.

You need to check that if it is important to you.

[nolo]

You should look at some VZ Alien grips. I put some on my RIA and love them. I am going to put a set on my Kimber too.

[9teeneleven]

I've found wilson mags to be the most problematic.

[Guest mikedwood]

I had problems out of brand new Wilson 8 round mags with my Springfield. It works fine with the 7 round mags.

I want to tinker with my 1911, but it's farther down on the list than tinkering with my AR.

[leroy]

1911 Magazine Analysis: Conclusion

1911 Magazine Analysis Part 2

I'm pretty sure this is kicking a bunch of folks' sacred cows... but you might want to read the links. Granted, I usually shoot ball ammo, but I have a small quantity (about 25) of GI mags, and 3 wilson 8 rounders. I've found the GI mags to be more reliable.

Ive found that most times any magazine can be fixed with a new magazine spring. I've got several of the colt marked 8 rounders that were giving trouble. I tore them down and put xtra power wolfe springs in them. The work fine now.

Hope this helps,

LEROY

[Wakethor]

Since it is your first 1911 you will (like everyone else) be trading and moving up. I would shoot it and enjoy it. Maybe you will get an opportunity to shoot some other 1911’s for comparison.

Or even better, just keep adding to your 1911 collection.

[SavageSig]

Since it is your first 1911 you will (like everyone else) be trading and moving up. I would shoot it and enjoy it. Maybe you will get an opportunity to shoot some other 1911’s for comparison.

You need to check that if it is important to you.

You're right. I'm already eye balling a Dan Wesson of some sort.

By checking, do you mean look at the SN? Mine has the NM prefix, which supposedly means it was at least assembled in the US. I hope it was made in the US too, but I heard it was probably actually forged in Brazil.

[Kevo]

Enjoy shooting it! If you want to tinker you could buy a seperate frame or slide to "learn" on/ experiment with...

[Guest TackleberryTom]

If, you have any skills whatsoever, you can fit a barrel bushing. This notion that "you must have a gunsmith" do this or that for you is a crock of sh..!

When my grandfather started shooting and customizing 1911's there were only a couple of people in the world who would tackle such a modification. He did some of his own work, and through conversations with Jim Clark, he did some of those. Most of the first 1911 accurizers were just Joe Schmoes that wanted to make their pistol shoot better. I am sick and tired of this notion that only professionals can do such work! The only difference between a "professional" and a novice, is whether or not you are getting paid to do it!

I am not insinuating that there are not some pros that know more than the average bear, I am simply saying that if you are skilled with your hands, you can do the exact same thing that a "pro" can do, to a 1911. Remember, the gun was designated 1911 due to the year when it was adopted by the US military, it is currently 2009, we have access to more tools and information than was ever even conceived back then.

But, here is my caveat, if you have purchased a newly manufactured 1911 style pistol then you probably will not have to modify it to shoot decently well. If you want to make it shoot even better, once you shoot as well as it does, then... consider some mods. I my self would do those on my own, if you are unskilled, seek out a gunsmith. Just my two cents worth. If I don't know how to do something and have to have someone else do it, it will be the last time. I will learn how to do it on my own if I have to.

Edited September 10, 2009 by TackleberryTom
Run on paragraph

[SavageSig]

Just a quick update: I bought some used Wilson mags (Thanks again Mark) and gave them a work out. They worked flawlessly, but my stock mags have been flawless as well. Round count is now at 350.

I also disassembled and cleaned the pistol for the first time. Honestly, this was the first time I've taken a close look at an A1 1911's guts. After cleaning a Colt Officer's 1911 I always thought my M645 was a close clone of the 1911, but I was wrong. I now appreciate what S&W designers were doing when they set out to build a .45, but apparently nothing is wrong with the original 1911 design.

I almost cracked a mirror because I thought, "I've taken apart an Officer's model 1911, it should be the same thing" and removed the slide stop and took the slide off the frame with the recoil spring plug still in place. So I actually read the directions and learned about removing the recoil spring plug first. I also had to look into how to remove the barrel.

So how do you guys feel about lube and the 1911? I just used some CLP, but I heard about people using grease on their rails. Is this beneficial? I've noticed that my slide wiggles a little from side to side now, whereas before I couldn't get it to budge a micrometer. I have an excellent array of airgun safe (because they do not dissolve O-rings or other polymers) greases which ought to be OK on a steel pistol, right?

I also successfully avoided the infamous "idiot mark". Hooray!

[Guest Centennial]

My Springfield 1911 works just fine with Wilson mags. I highly recommend them.