??? on a S&W 686 .357 Mag

[Guest billwilly73]

I have the chance to trade for a S&W 686 with 6" barrel problem is I don't have a clue as to value of the 686 to make sure I'm getting a fair trade. What would be a fair value on a Stainless 686 with Hogue grips? Looks to be in great shape. Anything I need to watch out for?

Thanks in advance for the help guys

[DavidD]

I have the chance to trade for a S&W 686 with 6" barrel problem is I don't have a clue as to value of the 686 to make sure I'm getting a fair trade. What would be a fair value on a Stainless 686 with Hogue grips? Looks to be in great shape. Anything I need to watch out for?

Thanks in advance for the help guys

Does it have the internal lock? (i.e. hole above the cylinder release-http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/handguns/26337-used-s-w-642-a.html)

[hkusp40cal]

Which 686 is it? There are two models, a six shot model and a seven shot version. New the seven shot runs around $700 give or take. Blue book puts the value for 98% at 475 for the 6 shot and 495 for the seven. However take that with a grain of salt since most time s&w revolvers in good shape with the box and papers command a little more than book.

[nightrunner]

i would guess around 550-600 give or take

[Guest Grout]

$450 or so if it is in good shape,ie the timing and carry up are good.You really have to check all S&Ws for that.

[DavidD]

$450 or so if it is in good shape,ie the timing and carry up are good.You really have to check all S&Ws for that.

, well sort of

Grout, you seem to be knowledgeable about wheel guns and I am not, always been a pistol guy and have only owned two revolvers one of which is a 686-6 (7 round) with 4" barrel (paid $500 for it LNIB a year or so ago). I have a couple of questions though. First, I understand "timing" but what do you mean regarding carry up? Second, you say "You really have to check all S&Ws for that". Are they problematic or inferior in that regards in your opinion?

[Guest billwilly73]

Does it have the internal lock? (i.e. hole above the cylinder release-http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/handguns/26337-used-s-w-642-a.html)

It is six shot with no internal lock.............no hole

like I said I have no idea about S&W revolvers I wouldn't know a good one from the bad

[Guest Grout]

, well sort of

Grout, you seem to be knowledgeable about wheel guns and I am not, always been a pistol guy and have only owned two revolvers one of which is a 686-6 (7 round) with 4" barrel (paid $500 for it LNIB a year or so ago). I have a couple of questions though. First, I understand "timing" but what do you mean regarding carry up? Second, you say "You really have to check all S&Ws for that". Are they problematic or inferior in that regards in your opinion?

Carry up-Slowly cock the hammer and make sure all cylinders carry up (lock in place) I have seen "new" S&Ws not be able to do that.Yes some are problomatic.Smiths are good guns but they ain't perfect but then again none are.JMNSHMFO.

[DaveTN]

A fair value for a 6†686 round butt pre-lock with Hogue grips in excellent condition is around $500. I have seen them listed under $400 (they don’t last a day) and you will see them listed on GB at over $700 (they don’t sell). Things that add to the value are the original box with the serial number, Magnum grips, etc.

The K and L frame S&W’s were the most popular revolvers when cops were carrying revolvers and are probably the most popular home protection revolvers of our time. The 686 came on the scene in 1980 and dominated that market.

The stainless guns are popular because unless the stainless steel has deep scratches in it, they can be made to look like new. Lock-up, Cylinder gap, end shake, damaged forcing cone, flame cutting, bent ejector rods, side plate and frame damage are all things to look at. There are plenty of detailed articles and threads as to what to look for in a revolver. Check out the S&W forum.

Good luck with your deal.

Anything I need to watch out for?

The cost of .357 Mag ammo.

[glockster157]

One other thing to look for in SW's is buggered screw heads and "push off". Cock the hammer and gently push it forward with your thumb, don't exert a lot of force but a decent push, if it jumps the sear and goes down somebody has tried to slick up the action and rounded the sear. I have seen this a lot on SW's, too many shade tree gunsmiths. Not hard to fix if you know what to do but if you can push the hammer off, what else has been messed with?

I agree with the $450 price especially if it has rubber grips and is missing the wood w/o box. And that would be max for me.

[Guest billwilly73]

Thanks guys I think I'm gonna pass on it.

It is one of those that don't do anything for me, you know what I mean.