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Sandblasting help needed


Guest HCRoadie

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Guest HCRoadie
Posted

I am looking to get some firearms media blasted in order to re-finish. I reqd the thread that TGODavid started and I PMed him. If anyone can recommend a shop or an easy way to DIY it, please let me know. Thank you in advance for all your help.

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Posted

It’s simple to do if you can justify about $300 for a small cabinet and media. And have an air compressor that can deliver 90 PSI of air and maintain it for however long you want to blast.

NO NOT use sand. Use the finest glass bead you can get.

If that’s more than you want to spend, take it to a shop. Many shops will have sandblasters, you need to find one that has a fine glass bead blaster.

Guest HCRoadie
Posted

Thanks for the tips. I fund a metal prep shop in the downtown area that I will call.

Posted (edited)

You may in fact want sand on some types of metals such as aluminum. Glass beads will polish the surface instead of of giving the type of surface that is required for the proper adhesion of paint or finish materials.

If you have a compressor you can pick up a small gravity feed gun that you can refinish small items with. Norther Tool sells a small hand held pressurized unit that is about $40 that would work well also. If you do not have a compressor then I would just source out someone to do it for you.

Edited by mhm2a
forgot some information
Guest Tusculum
Posted

I dont know how close you are to Greeneville but your welcome to use my outfit. I use a mix of fine sand and 80gt. Black Diamond. It works great for parkerizing but couldnt say on bluing, If thats what your gonna do. It may be too coarse for bluing. Its a somewhat home made outfit but it works well. I have a fresh air supplied hood and protective clothing and a large wooden box that the parts go into. 80gal 2 stage comp which is more than enough air.

Guest HCRoadie
Posted
I dont know how close you are to Greeneville but your welcome to use my outfit. I use a mix of fine sand and 80gt. Black Diamond. It works great for parkerizing but couldnt say on bluing, If thats what your gonna do. It may be too coarse for bluing. Its a somewhat home made outfit but it works well. I have a fresh air supplied hood and protective clothing and a large wooden box that the parts go into. 80gal 2 stage comp which is more than enough air.

Hey, I really appreciate the very generous offer. It is very kind of you to offer. I live in east Nashville, so it would be a bit of a drive. But thanks again:)

Guest Britestar
Posted

Why would want to blast a gun with either glass or other media to refinish it? There are chemicals designed for the express purpose of refinishing. Just wondering here, I might see it if you are parkerizing but for a great rebluing I think I would reconsider. Just a thought.

  • 8 months later...
Guest Fuernis
Posted

What did that metal prep shop quote you? I need my AR blasted.

Posted
Why would want to blast a gun with either glass or other media to refinish it? There are chemicals designed for the express purpose of refinishing. Just wondering here, I might see it if you are parkerizing but for a great rebluing I think I would reconsider. Just a thought.

Depends on the condition of the gun. Phosporic acid stops rust sure enough...but it doesn't remove the need for blasting

I reblue a lot and blasting provides a matte finish to contrast against the more polished portions of the gun. 1911 is the textbook example.

  • 4 weeks later...
Guest Fuernis
Posted

So I took me AR to Rehorn and kelly at 1104 Lebanon rd (Phone 255-3864). They charged me $30.00 to blast my upper. lower, free float handrail, barrel, and flash suppressor. Did a good job of it and only waited about 15 minuets for it to be done. They didn't have 120 grit so they used the 180 grit they had, it was still a good prep job.

I didn't get any pictures of the parts in the white but here is one after getting sprayed with tactical dark earth.

Imageshack - darkearth002blur.jpgdarkearth002blur.jpg

  • 8 years later...

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