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AR flash hider


Guest Rem_700

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Guest Rem_700
Posted

This is my first AR,I bought this back right after I turned 18 and jumped on it because it was my first and I was ignorant to them and didn't do my homework.But what I have a Colt match target light weight with a colt upper 16 in barrel marked C MP 1/7...It does not have a flash hider on it,it has a pencil barrel on it.I would like to have a flash hider of some sort.I was thinking of getting one pinned on??

Im just not sure.I've never had a problem out of my Colt,great shooter and very accurate.I almost sold it this weekend,so I could purchase another AR.But i decided to keep it,I need some oppinions on what kind of flash hider to put on it,a pinned on one? Or a threaded on one?I am going to order the Magpul stock with a set of quad rails on it,then going to save up for an eotech to mount on the handguards.What you see in the pic is a tru glo red dot,It works pretty good,I just put it on there to see how the sight picture was..Anyway,back to the flash hider,suggestions???

HPIM2065.jpg

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Posted

It would probably be cheaper to have it threaded than to have someone pin a flash hider on. The only reason to pin a flash hider is if your going with a 14.5 barrel and need to make it legal.

Personally I say thread the barrel and try to get a new stripped flattop upper receiver so you can use any optic you want.

Posted

I had one of those tru glo's on my AR and I couldn't hit the broad side of a barn. I took it off and used the iron sights and could group about 8 out of 10 rounds within a 10" circle at 100 yards.

Posted
I had one of those tru glo's on my AR and I couldn't hit the broad side of a barn. I took it off and used the iron sights and could group about 8 out of 10 rounds within a 10" circle at 100 yards.

Thats terrible accuracy. The last time I shot for accuracy was basic training and I put 9 round in a 4 inch circle at 300 meters. I would get your rifle checked.

Guest clsutton21
Posted

You could probably thread it yourself...or take it to any gunsmith to have it done...probably any machinist, too.

Guest Todd@CIS
Posted (edited)

Don't pin. Get a gunsmith to thread the end of your barrel and add a flash hider.

Which one? I'm perfectly fine with an A2 hider...they work well and are inexpensive.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21246/Product/AR_15_A2_FLASH_SUPPRESSOR

If you want a better one get this...

BROWNELLS : YANKEE HILL MACHINE CO., INC. : PHANTOM 5C1 COMP/FLASH HIDER - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

I'd get the Phantom without the "aggressive front end" (5C1)...you don't need the sharpness cutting up your gun cases and legs (think transition drills).

The Vortex (below) works very well as a flash hider, but I like the ones above better for two reasons...I like an enclosed front end and the Vortex will kick up more dust / dirt when firing from the prone. Just personal perference.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=18711/Product/AR_15_M16_G6_A2_VORTEX_FLASH_HIDER

Edited by Todd@CIS
Posted
Thats terrible accuracy. The last time I shot for accuracy was basic training and I put 9 round in a 4 inch circle at 300 meters. I would get your rifle checked.

Well I thought it was decent seeing that I have never been through basic, and it was my first time actually trying to hit something with the iron sights.

Guest Todd@CIS
Posted
Well I thought it was decent seeing that I have never been through basic, and it was my first time actually trying to hit something with the iron sights.

Well, since we're not sure how you achieved that (offhand, braced, standing, prone, etc.), it might not be bad for someone with your experience.

You'll only get better.

Guest Todd@CIS
Posted
Thats terrible accuracy. The last time I shot for accuracy was basic training and I put 9 round in a 4 inch circle at 300 meters. I would get your rifle checked.

?

LOL...9 rounds out of how many? :usa:

Posted

If you think that you may ever use a suppressor, have it threaded by a gunsmith and let him know this ahead of time. He can remove the barrel and put it on a lathe and turn it between centers. The threads will be based on the bore of the barrel and not the outside. Baffle strikes suck !!!

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