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Reloading just started to look a LOT better due to ammo price hikes


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Posted
25 - 30% hike in price across the board at Wal-Mart according to other forums, and this link (above) from Natchez Shooter Supply shows similar information. :D

Glad I have been keeping my brass... Anyone teach a reloading class? :P

  • Administrator
Posted

I'm glad I saved the majority of my ammo this past year as well! I just have no idea how to even start reloading it. :P

Guest Verbal Kint
Posted

Noticed this, while checking out the HGR Firearms website (See Len's user profile), in their list of instructors and the various qualifications that they possess. Not sure if that refers to speed/tactical reloading or actual ammunition reloading, but I would assume the latter.

LEN ASSANTE ............PISTOL, RTBV, SHOTGUN

FAWN FENTON........PISTOL [RTBV]

FREDDIE RIVERA.......SHOTGUN

RAY WHITE..................PISTOL, SHOTGUN

ERNEST PLUS.............SHOTGUN, ARMED GUARD,

WAYNE BURNET.........RELOADING, SHOTGUN

Might be something for you guys to look into. I'm sure Len can chime in on if this guy is available for instructing such a class. :P

Posted

I know this isn't much help just this minute, but I have reloaded for rifle and pistol in the past. I'm hoping to get my reloading bench back together when I come home in November - still have the equipment (and even some excess), just need to finish out the reloading room in the new garage.

Would be happy to demonstrate how easy and inexpensive reloading can be. First things first - save your brass. Save anyone elses', if they don't want it.

Guest utarch00
Posted

I would definitely be interested in learning.

Guest Mugster
Posted

Reloading is just not that difficult if you want to just reload plinking or hunting grade ammo. It can be somewhat time consuming, especially if you are learning. And building the match grade stuff takes some experience and patience.

General advice would be to buy a complete set of stuff for one caliber with a single stage press from. After you've loaded for awhile, you can buy more stuff or upgrade to whatever suits. Also, if you get to where you are ready to load your first round, I'm sure someone off this board or from someplace else would be happy to come watch you for the first couple rounds.

This one would be a good for a beginner:

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1188760677.5369=/html/catalog/anivers.html

The only thing I'd possibly add to it would be a micrometer for measuring anything you want to measure. It is not strictly necessary if you use the lee case length trimmer tool however.

Posted

I started reloading because of the last price hike and as long as you pay attention (very important!) it's so easy it feels like cheating. With 200gr lead semi-wadcutters I reload .45 for around 8 cents a round. Last time I checked WWB at Wal-Mart it was 29 cents a round, and that was before the price increase.

Guest volgunner
Posted
Reloading is just not that difficult if you want to just reload plinking or hunting grade ammo. It can be somewhat time consuming, especially if you are learning. And building the match grade stuff takes some experience and patience.

General advice would be to buy a complete set of stuff for one caliber with a single stage press from. After you've loaded for awhile, you can buy more stuff or upgrade to whatever suits. Also, if you get to where you are ready to load your first round, I'm sure someone off this board or from someplace else would be happy to come watch you for the first couple rounds.

This one would be a good for a beginner:

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1188760677.5369=/html/catalog/anivers.html

The only thing I'd possibly add to it would be a micrometer for measuring anything you want to measure. It is not strictly necessary if you use the lee case length trimmer tool however.

Mugster, couple of questions. Assuming I get this kit and a micrometer, and assuming I've got brass saved, exactly what else do I need to actually reload my first round? (I plan on reloading .38 Special/.357 Mag).

If I understand it, I need dies, bullets, primers, and powder. Let me know if I need anything else. Also, are there particular brands of these that I should consider?

Is it worth buying bullets, primers and powder over the Internet, or are you better off buying locally if you have a Sportsman's Warehouse, Bass Pro Shop, etc.?

Finally, for range loads, should you use jacketed bullets, or is there any downside to lead?

Thanks for any help you can give me. Shooting's becoming really expensive.

Regards,

Russell

Posted

Here's the link to Dillon Precision. It's for a Square Deal "B" progressive loader. For the money, it's the best on the market and Dillon's cust. svc. and NO BS lifetime warranty can not be beat. I have a SDB and crank out about 300 rds. per hour. You definately want a set of calipers,tumbler,media,powder scale,primer flip tray,extra primer tubes, chronograph,etc. If you are going to be loading high pressure rds. for competition, 40 SW, 38 super, 9mm major, definately get help to start with from an experienced loader. Otherwise get some good manuals and check out brianenos.com for loads and always start out 10% less and work your way up. Hope this helps.....

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/catid/1/pid/25237/?viewImg=0

DaG

Guest Verbal Kint
Posted
:confused:x's 2 for Dillon Precision! Best way to go.
Posted
You definately want a set of calipers,tumbler,media,powder scale,primer flip tray,extra primer tubes, chronograph,etc.

I've got a Shooting Chrony with printer, software, some extra parts, etc. that I'd part with. I was always very happy with it. Have access to some other equipment these days. I'll have to put together a description if anyone is interested in it. Just let me know. I used it in putting together my .308 accuracy load.

Also have some gauges and stuff too that I no longer need.

Posted
Also have some gauges and stuff too that I no longer need.

Those wouldn’t be bore gauges or TE gauges would they?

Guest Mugster
Posted
Mugster, couple of questions. Assuming I get this kit and a micrometer, and assuming I've got brass saved, exactly what else do I need to actually reload my first round? (I plan on reloading .38 Special/.357 Mag).

If I understand it, I need dies, bullets, primers, and powder. Let me know if I need anything else. Also, are there particular brands of these that I should consider?

Is it worth buying bullets, primers and powder over the Internet, or are you better off buying locally if you have a Sportsman's Warehouse, Bass Pro Shop, etc.?

Finally, for range loads, should you use jacketed bullets, or is there any downside to lead?

Thanks for any help you can give me. Shooting's becoming really expensive.

Regards,

Russell

I wind up buying bullets over the net, when I can get them on sale. There are also a couple of discount places. I only buy primers 1000 at a wack usually, so with the $25 hazmat fee, I think you are better off buying local unless its a huge order. For just starting out, why not pick up 100 primers and a pound of powder and maybe 100 cheap bullets and your dies? That way the next time you go about getting components, try a different brand. Half the fun of reloading is varying the recipe looking for that really accurate round. Once you get into it, there's plenty of time to buy bulk of stuff you like or that works well in your pistol. Also, you can decide if you like it and its something you want to pursue long term.

You need a complete reloading manual that not only has load info, but also how to do it in addition to what you listed. There are alot of web guides as well, but a reloading manual should be your primary source of info.

When buying powder/primer/bullets for the first time, if you can get to knowlegeable reloading shop, you'll be well served. I like the reloaders bench out in mt.juiliet...just explain your situation to the tall guy with white hair. He'll recommend and help you pick stuff out. I don't know of any other place around the nashville area.

For pistol, if you load .38 you should be fine with lead or copper coated bullets. Copper coated are not jacketed. Ranier and a couple of other brands cater to this market, which is sort of the indoor shooter that can't shoot any lead at all. If you really pump up to .357 velocity, you are going to lead your barrel some even with a hard lead alloy I think. I only load .45acp in pistol, but thats what I've heard. I mean you can clean it out of there, so its not the end of the world, but shooting at least copper coated might be wise to reduce leading.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I reload every thing I shoot, I save the most on .223. I have bullets I bought before the price increase. I can reload 1000 for under $100. Shot shells are a toss up, I make special loads for my super2x that cannot be bought, lite charge, heavy shot weight. .40 using 180gr. JHP run me about $150 per 1000 or $125 using FMJ, still about half price. 9mm run me about $100 per thousand using 124 gr. JHP.

  • Administrator
Posted

I think I'll be investing in a Dillon progressive press this Christmas. It will pay for itself easily over time and will be an enjoyable way to get to know another aspect of this hobby. :koolaid:

Guest EasilyObsessed
Posted

If you end up with some excess free time...A narrative of your experiences in beginning reloading would be an incredibly interesting read. Or even just a "things I didnt expect" thread. I have been considering reloading for awhile now as well.

Posted

I have reloaded for years for my 45 and 44 spec using hard cast lead bullets. At the 800 fps velocity range leading isn't really that big of an issue. When you get into the magnum loads and rifle ammo, jacketed bullets are the way to go.

Posted

I still use the old cheapie Lee press that came in the Anniversary kit. If I loaded to save money, I'm sure I'd go to a progressive press. But I load for accuracy. That means rounds that you can't buy at the store. Fine tune the powder and load the bullet a bit long so it is closer to the lands.

Now if I could just find a local range over 600 yards....

Posted

Now if I could just find a local range over 600 yards....

ORSA....1000 yds.

DaG

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