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The cost of starting to reload


Guest foister82

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Guest foister82
Posted

  • ABC of reloading - $20ish
  • Reloading Press - $140ish
  • Case Trimmer - $100ish
  • Deburring Tool - $14
  • Powder Scale - $50?
  • Micrometer - $20
  • Powder - ?
  • Primer - ?
  • Bullets - ?
  • Brass - Free from range and friends :cheers:

I'm trying to get a general cost setup of getting started with my own reloading. Several of my friends have been collecting brass from their shooting excursions as have i... I know the first start is the ABC book which i am gonna read thorughly before i even start with the other materials, but im interested in start up cost. I have a friend who's willing to fund my starting expenses and materials to reload a good number of rounds for him.

How much did it cost you to start off with your reloading? :drool:

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Posted (edited)

through the exercise recently, and still don't have everything I "need" I will take an estimated stab at my present outlay.

I have not pulled the handle yet, that is to say I have not loaded a single round. I'm not in any hurry, it has taken me two years of "putzing" and going it alone to get everything I needed. Much of this is due to my lack of diligence, the marketplace (scarcity/leadtime) of components and raw materials and recent demand increase in loading/reloading interest. Thanks Mr. President.

Based on a Hornady LnL Progressive.

Necessary items to reload: .45, .38/357, .223.

I still need to spend another $100 or there abouts for a tumbler and media for same. Probably another $100 in odds and ends.

I will hazard a guess....$1000 to 1200. in round numbers.

I have probably enough materials to do 500-1000 rounds of said rounds.

Not bad for a hobby that gives back.

I did it to learn something new.

Something to do now that I have a basement and winters.

Good investment in today's social condition.

Hornady could do themselves a favor by including a list of things that are:

Necessary to continue after the purchase of the basic press.

Nicities, but not necessary.

Luxuries.

I spoke to a factory representative who sent me a list of things I needed. Nice since it took me a year of stumbling around myself to get to that point.

There are some good videos on You Tube, take them with a grain of salt of course, but most of the people know what they are doing.

Edited by DAdams
Posted (edited)

the setup. I don't go at much lightly....

Like I said, I now have a basement/shop and TN winters to devote to loading/reloading.

The Room

P1010021.jpg

Parts/Components

P1010006-1.jpg

Loading Bench

P1010011.jpg

Bench is covered with black 1/4 inch Starboard.

Stuff

P1010016.jpg

Edited by DAdams
photo change
Posted

wow, dadams. it looks so . . . .so . . . . .civilized.

All nice clean, and new looking.

nice setup!

As far as start up costs, I couldn't begin to tell you. I didn't keep a running total for fear that the wife would find out EXACTLY how much we have invested. I don't ask her how much she pays for clothes / shoes, and she doesn't ask about my guns / reloading / fishing and hunting equipment. Our marriage just works better that way. :drool:

Posted (edited)

The someday retirement man cave. I have suffered w/o a basement living in FL for 20 years...it's tough to load in a garage when the feels like temp is 102 and the humidity is 98%.

Well Put...the foundation of a sound relationship:

I didn't keep a running total for fear that the wife would find out EXACTLY how much we have invested. I don't ask her how much she pays.....

Gregg Sayeth:

Primers PRICELESS!!!!!!:D

I have them all but small rifle. I going to Atlanta next week...maybe, just maybe.

Edited by DAdams
Guest foister82
Posted

nice :) my stepdad got me started with reloading several years ago... but he had his equipment mounted to a little table that could be moved around. Kinda scary considering it could fall over with all the little primers and powder

Posted

  • ABC of reloading - $20ish
  • Reloading Press - $140ish
  • Case Trimmer - $100ish
  • Deburring Tool - $14
  • Powder Scale - $50?
  • Micrometer - $20
  • Powder - ?
  • Primer - ?
  • Bullets - ?
  • Brass - Free from range and friends

If you're just getting started, don't need a trimmer, micrometer or deburring tool.

Avoid range brass if it's .40 cal. Might be from a Glock.

You can find a Lee kit for $100 or so that has everything to GET YOU STARTED. Lovingly hand-crafting every load comes later, unless you've got a lot of time on your hands.

Bullets, powders and primers....that's a whole different thing!

Posted

Avoid range brass if it's .40 cal. Might be from a Glock.

Mind clueing me in why you say that?

Enquiring mind wants to know.

What about other caliber Glock spent brass?

Posted

if you are going to reload for range practice, i would suggest using lead bullets. i purchase from Missouri Bullet, and 9MM round nose go for about $26/500. they ship flat rate, so if you order 4 boxes it cost the same as one box. Powder about $20/lb. Start with something like Accurate #2 for range loads and practice. Several guys here told me use lighter loads for practice. I was shooting Blazier @ $10/50, calculated reloads to go $5/50. Plus, i now have a new hobby. don't be afraid to ask questions on this forum, these guys are very helpful!!! good luck and nice man cave.

Posted
Mind clueing me in why you say that?

Enquiring mind wants to know.

What about other caliber Glock spent brass?

The 40S&W cartidge is a fairly high pressure cartridge, and Glock .40S&W chambers do not fully support the cartridge case.

From the Buffalo Bore Ammunition website:

40 S&W WARNING

"This data is intended for use in firearms which fully support the cartridge in the chamber. Use of this data in firearms which do not fully support the cartridge may result in bulged cases, ruptured cases, case head separation, or other conditions which may result in damage to the firearm and/or result in injury or death of the shooter or bystanders."

I'm not sure about the other calibers, but Buffalo Bore doesn't have the same warnings on their 9mm, .357Sig., 10mm, or .45ACP ammo. However, the Glocks do not have fully supported chambers in 10mm or .45 ACP, as well as .40S&W. But from what I've read, the Glock .40S&W's seems to be most susceptible to case bulge, case ruptures, and case head separation. I have no personal experience with these issues as I neither own, nor have the desire to own, a Glock. For what it's worth Glock recommends the use of only new manufactured ammunition, use of handloaded or remanufactured ammunition voids the Glock warranty.

Cliff

Posted

It is mostly hype and not restricted to Glock... all manufacturers will say the same thing about reloads. "Don't do it or we will not honor your warranty" I don't blame them because people are generally pretty stupid in that they often prefer "trial and error" learning rather than scientific reliance on existing bodies of study.

A glock, or any other hangun that "was" a 9mm but was redesigned for .40, has a partially unsupported chamber. Simply means that this is the weakest link in the chain if for some reason pressure is greater than the gun was designed for. Glock is not any more susectable to this condition than any other manufacturer...they simply produce 10 to 1 over any other .40s&w manufacturer

There are many warnings about .40 S&W because there were problems with them blowing up in the past. People loaded and unloaded the same bullets over and over without shooting them (police officers/security guards/HD guns)...this caused the bullet to eventually drive farther and farther in the cartridge. Because it is a high pressure round and it has a relatively small capacity the space restriction would cause pressure spikes that would go 80, 90, 100+ cup...causing a kaboom.

The solution? manufactures actually glue the bullets to the cartridge to help prevent this situation these days. It was too little to late before all sorts of hysteria about how crappy the cartridge, the gun, or the ammo could be with respect to anything .40s&w. That warning was a knee-jerk reaction because at the time no ammo manufacturer wanted to say what was causing the problem because they provided half the US police force with these guns. Self regulation and warnings was left to independant ammo makers like Buffalo Bore...which is known for pushing things right to the limis of SAMMI anyway unlike mainstream that stays 10-15% under.

If your brass bulges...it is loaded too hot or the gun is dangerously unsupported beyond the initial design of the gun. This is visually very obvious, but at the same time not common at all even with Glock handguns. Simply avoiding reloading .40 because it may have been shot through a glock is being way too conservitive. Visual inspection, sorting, and quality control is priority +1 with reloading. If you ever see a blulge there is something wrong with the gun and you need to put it out of commission until you fix it. Again...it has nothing to do with Glock (I am not a fan boy/kool ade drinker either...think they are utter utilitarian snit).

When brass is expanded and contracted it actually hardens...the amount that the brass bends with respect to a "short/unsupported" is minimal to the expansion that the mouth of the cartridge makes when the gun fires. Thus keeping the indication of warn out brass to neck splits...not Kabooms.

The 40S&W cartidge is a fairly high pressure cartridge, and Glock .40S&W chambers do not fully support the cartridge case.

From the Buffalo Bore Ammunition website:

40 S&W WARNING

"This data is intended for use in firearms which fully support the cartridge in the chamber. Use of this data in firearms which do not fully support the cartridge may result in bulged cases, ruptured cases, case head separation, or other conditions which may result in damage to the firearm and/or result in injury or death of the shooter or bystanders."

I'm not sure about the other calibers, but Buffalo Bore doesn't have the same warnings on their 9mm, .357Sig., 10mm, or .45ACP ammo. However, the Glocks do not have fully supported chambers in 10mm or .45 ACP, as well as .40S&W. But from what I've read, the Glock .40S&W's seems to be most susceptible to case bulge, case ruptures, and case head separation. I have no personal experience with these issues as I neither own, nor have the desire to own, a Glock. For what it's worth Glock recommends the use of only new manufactured ammunition, use of handloaded or remanufactured ammunition voids the Glock warranty.

Cliff

Posted (edited)

That being said the OP needs to get a C&R 03 FFL. While it is waiting to roll in study as much as you can about reloading

When it does roll in get your dealer cost discounted reloading kit delivered to your door from midwayUSA and hit the ground running. it is very easy to get everything you need for well under $500 and still have a setup reliable enough for you, your children, and your children's children.

Edited by I_Like_Pie
Clarify focus to OP and not USMCJG
Posted
It is mostly hype and not restricted to Glock... all manufacturers will say the same thing about reloads. "Don't do it or we will not honor your warranty" I don't blame them because people are generally pretty stupid in that they often prefer "trial and error" learning rather than scientific reliance on existing bodies of study.

A glock, or any other hangun that "was" a 9mm but was redesigned for .40, has a partially unsupported chamber. Simply means that this is the weakest link in the chain if for some reason pressure is greater than the gun was designed for. Glock is not any more susectable to this condition than any other manufacturer...they simply produce 10 to 1 over any other .40s&w manufacturer

There are many warnings about .40 S&W because there were problems with them blowing up in the past. People loaded and unloaded the same bullets over and over without shooting them (police officers/security guards/HD guns)...this caused the bullet to eventually drive farther and farther in the cartridge. Because it is a high pressure round and it has a relatively small capacity the space restriction would cause pressure spikes that would go 80, 90, 100+ cup...causing a kaboom.

The solution? manufactures actually glue the bullets to the cartridge to help prevent this situation these days. It was too little to late before all sorts of hysteria about how crappy the cartridge, the gun, or the ammo could be with respect to anything .40s&w. That warning was a knee-jerk reaction because at the time no ammo manufacturer wanted to say what was causing the problem because they provided half the US police force with these guns. Self regulation and warnings was left to independant ammo makers like Buffalo Bore...which is known for pushing things right to the limis of SAMMI anyway unlike mainstream that stays 10-15% under.

If your brass bulges...it is loaded too hot or the gun is dangerously unsupported beyond the initial design of the gun. This is visually very obvious, but at the same time not common at all even with Glock handguns. Simply avoiding reloading .40 because it may have been shot through a glock is being way too conservitive. Visual inspection, sorting, and quality control is priority +1 with reloading. If you ever see a blulge there is something wrong with the gun and you need to put it out of commission until you fix it. Again...it has nothing to do with Glock (I am not a fan boy/kool ade drinker either...think they are utter utilitarian snit).

When brass is expanded and contracted it actually hardens...the amount that the brass bends with respect to a "short/unsupported" is minimal to the expansion that the mouth of the cartridge makes when the gun fires. Thus keeping the indication of warn out brass to neck splits...not Kabooms.

Thanks for the clarification Pie. I was just reporting what I had read from numerous sources. As I mentioned, I have no experience with Glocks. I was just responding to why some think brass fired from Glocks, particularly in .40S&W, is not the best for reloading. FWIW, there have also been numerous reports of kabooms in HK USP .40's which DO have fully supported chambers. Like you say, I think it's because of the relatively high pressure/low capacity round where slight variations in seating depth can result in relatively large pressure spikes. Also, as you said, Buffalo Bore only loads heavy, +P, and +P+ ammo, so they are pushing the SAAMI limits with their ammunition.

Cliff

Posted
Cliff

Yeah...The really amazing thing is that there really isn't a definitive explanation for the problems as told by any of the manufacturers. There was in years past, but everyone seems to want to put those "developmental" years in a really deep well and pretend they never happened.

That being said...40s&w is not probably the best cartridge for one to cut their teeth on.

Guest FroggyOne2
Posted

I have found that RCBS Part Number 22115 40S&W/10mm Carbide dies will de-clock brass very well, shoots flawlessly in my PC Tactical 40.

Posted

Thank you for the info ... been out of the game for several years raising a family. Now that they are all on their own, slowly getting back in as finances will let me.

Keeping my eye out for an estate or divorce sale where I can pick up a reloading setup at a good price.

Guest MERRILL
Posted (edited)

I got started in reloading for less than $200. Lee Anniversary kit, bullets, primers, powder and carbide dies for 9mm. I don't need anything else. A tumbler may be nice, but it is not a necessity. All of this purchased at Reloaders Bench in Mt. Juliet TN.

Edited by MERRILL
Posted

I lost track of all the little things you need to pick up but the couple hours at the bench with no distraction priceless!!!!!

  • 1 month later...
Guest H0TSH0T
Posted (edited)

some say you should not reload glock .40 brass, due to floating barrel and case bulge, just inspect your brass well, if it is to thin cull it, but you can reload it, just not as many times as if it were fired from a different handgun. i do, and have no issues, you will have to run it in a full carbide die set anyways.

i got

$130 Lee 4 turret press with powder measure, scale, debur, primer pocket reamer,and case trim,

$35 lee carbide dies for .40 (free powder measure and base)

$34 rcbs reg .308 dies

$11 case lube and pad (not needed with carbide dies)

$25 rcbs powder tickler

$40 sierra reloading book

$25 digital calipers

$36 for 1000 primers lp or lr same price

$76 for 500 (ranier)fmj bullets .40

$16 lee auto prime

$5 case holders for auto prime

$14 rcbs crimp cutter, for .308 military brass.

$25 1lb gun powder

$75 for tumbler and media and re activator, and separator.

all in all around $400 for everything you will need, not counting time and setup. you can spend more, this is a low to mid range set up, my next press will be a t-7

Edited by H0TSH0T
Posted

  • ABC of reloading - $20ish
  • Reloading Press - $140ish
  • Case Trimmer - $100ish
  • Deburring Tool - $14
  • Powder Scale - $50?
  • Micrometer - $20
  • Powder - ?
  • Primer - ?
  • Bullets - ?
  • Brass - Free from range and friends :P

I'm trying to get a general cost setup of getting started with my own reloading. Several of my friends have been collecting brass from their shooting excursions as have i... I know the first start is the ABC book which i am gonna read thorughly before i even start with the other materials, but im interested in start up cost. I have a friend who's willing to fund my starting expenses and materials to reload a good number of rounds for him.

How much did it cost you to start off with your reloading? :up:

Just did this last week. (new myself)

  • Powder - $79 for 5 lbs of No2 at Reloaders Bench
  • Primer - hahaha.. funny joke. primers are MIA ($30-$50/1000 if you can find them)
  • Bullets - anywhere from .03 to .15 cents per bullet depending on type and quantity
  • Brass - harder to find on the range floor since everyone seems to be reloading these days... $40-ish for 500 rns.

Posted

Buddy of mine (who still hasn't started reloading) has been shopping for years in the want ads... he picked up a Dillon 450 for $150 bucks.

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