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SIG P6 Refinishing - Flat Tan Moly


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Daniel, one of our moderators, took me up on my offer of a complimentary refinish job using his well-worn SIG Sauer P6 as the subject. He was even kind enough to completely detail strip it for me ahead of time, so all that was required was to have the slide and frame media blasted and the rest of the parts thoroughly degreased.

Here are some photos of the slide and frame "in the white" fresh from being media blasted.

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After discussing it some with Daniel, I encouraged him to let me use Norell's Moly Resin product on the firearm rather than Duracoat. Moly resin is a more durable finish, although a bit more picky about how it is sprayed and a lot more noxious when being sprayed. Hence, a proper respirator and good ventilation are required.

Moly resin also must be thermally cured rather than left to air dry the way that Duracoat can be. You can bake Duracoat also to expedite the dry time, but it is ultimately still a paint. Moly resin is not properly cured until it is exposed to at least 300 degrees for at least an hour. Once it cures, however, it is highly resistant to all common solvents and extremely resistant to chips, scrapes and scuffs.

Since Daniel wants to treat this firearm like a tool rather than an heirloom, moly resin was the best choice.

Here are some photos of the slide and frame, post-curing. The color is Flat Tan (U.S. Military mid-east desert tan 30118 color fed standard 595B. Also known as "Dark Earth.")

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Firing controls and other external pieces, including the sights, were finished in SOCOM Black Flat moly resin and also oven cured. I will be reinstalling the sights for Daniel before returning the remaining pieces to him for reassembly.

I'm probably as anxious to see it put back together as he is. :D

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Tacticool Black is definitely an option with the moly resin finish, and of course I can still do Duracoat in just about any color under the Lauer Weaponry sun.

I'll be posting some pricing information soon. :D

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Not one to be content with anything that strikes me as being not quite perfect, I shot the frame and slide again tonight but this time used my airbrush instead of the HVLP spray gun that I had used earlier.

This time the finish looks absolutely STUNNING. The color is absolutely FLAT and shows no shine or sheen. Exactly the way that I had hoped they would have looked to begin with.

The finish on the SIG looks like the finish on the new FN-SCAR rifle. It's got that awesome powdery flat tan that MILSPEC requires.

I'm blown away with what a difference this second set of coats with the airbrush made and I think that Daniel will be even more pleased with this than he was with the previous photos. The pieces are curing in the oven right now and I will get photos of them tomorrow morning out doors when the light is best.

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I'm working on pricing information and will post something no later than this upcoming Monday. I just need to make sure that I have all of my bases covered before I put a rate schedule out there. I'm not looking to get rich off of any of this but I need to at least cover materials and make a little pocket money. There's about 3 hours worth of work in doing one completely, but I enjoy it. :up:

Obviously certain considerations will have to be taken, such as whether the firearm is completely detail stripped before it is sent to me or if I have to do it.

I have an assortment of firearm-specific MGW sight installation tools and have ordered a B&J Machine universal sight tool to take care of those that I don't have a specific tool for. So sight removal and installation is something that I won't factor into whether or not a firearm is completely stripped. I'll take care of that as part of it since the sights will need to be reinstalled correctly to prevent the slide being banged up after being refinished.

Anyway... more on all of this come Monday. :)

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Hey David, you are bringing this Sunday right? I think we'd all like to see it up close.

buk

Unfortunately, probably not. Daniel and I need to discuss having the slide re-blasted and then me shooting it again with moly resin to remedy a problem that I spotted after it was done. I'm not going to be happy unless it's 100% and right now it's not.

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