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Norrell's Moly Resin


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I've begun using Norrell's Moly Resin on some of the firearms that I'm refinishing and this is some pretty rugged stuff! :P

Last night I took a spare parkerized combat style 1911 rear sight from 10-8 Performance, prepped it and then shot it with two coats of flat black moly resin. After curing it in the oven for an hour and then letting it cool, I took it and started subjecting it to some abuse.

I ran it into the sight dovetail and back out using a MGW sight pusher. No affect on the finish. Marginal scuffing on the dovetail shoulders. Parkerizing almost always rubs off when I do this.

I smacked it with a hammer. Minor scuffing, some of which I was able to rub off with my thumb. Not bad. Duracoat will evetually chip at points of impact, but this stuff didn't really budge.

I then flipped the sight over and took a bent, heavy duty paper clip and raked the sharp edge of it across the bottom of the dovetail. It left a small scratch but not all the way through the resin.

Like I said... tough stuff! ;)

(Canned photo from Norell's web site... not mine!)

Pic2.jpg

I will be posting price information soon on all of the firearms finishes that I will be providing.

Edited by TGO David
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That pic is actually a canned photo from Norrell's web site but it's highly indicative of what the product looks like. I was trapped in the lobby at the dealership, waiting for my car's oil change when I posted that.

I used to be a "change my own oil" kind of guy until the Acura place pointed out that they would do it for about $10 more than it was costing me to do it myself, and in exchange I get to sit in air conditioned comfort and let someone else get dirty. Deal!!!

:P

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I 100% agree with the moly resin being a quite good product...didn't push it earlier as you were working comfortably with the Duracoat product. It seems to spray better and is easier to work with.

Advice if you are going to do this a lot/as a side business. I highly suggest looking into parkerizing....it is very easy to do and requires very little in special equipment. Since you are prepping the surface for the paint the parkerizing would only be 1 additional step. Pick up an electric eye for $20 at wal mart and you can do it outside the kitchen so the wife doesn't freak out.

Parkerizing + Moly resin = the most durable finish on a firearm...period. Much more corrosion/wear resistant than even stainless steel.

Edited by I_Like_Pie
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Guest Sherman A. House

David,

I agree! I have guns that are finished with Norrell's, Duracoat, Birdsong's Black T, and NONE of them have worked out as well as the Molyresin over parkerizing.

Here are a couple of my guns, with the Molyresin finish.

3611189826_d246394d69_b.jpg

3611189426_7caefa5c29_b.jpg

Both guns were assembled and finished by Jim Fuller, at Rifle Dynamics:

RIFLE DYNAMICS - Tools and Training for the Professional Warrior

I've beaten the tar out of these two guns, cleaned them with diesel, kerosene or brake cleaner, lubed them with lithium wheel bearing grease, and they still work (no surprise) and they actually still look good. For colored finishes, I won't use anything else.

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