1911 upgrades

[nightrunner]

what kind of upgrades can i install on my 1911 WITHOUT machine work or filing or other gunsmith-type work?

current gun on the surgery table is SA GI 1911 A1, also curious about upgrades to a S&W SW1911PD tac. rail scandium frame

thanks

[Guest Plainsman]

There are tons of accessories for the 1911 these days. It seems as if there are replaceable or upgradable parts floating around everywhere. You could go to brownells and order their free catalog, which is full of ONLY 1911 parts. A lot of it depends on what kind of gun you are trying to transform it into...ambi safties, beavertail grip safety, grips, hammers, mainspring housings, guide rods (controversial debate), etc. Whats your use for it?

I do know that you've got a great gun. I've got a SA loaded model in SS that I absolutely love.

[nightrunner]

just to clarify, i know that there is an extensive amount of parts for the 1911. i am looking for stuff i dont have to file this down or hand-fit that to make it work or fit right.

what parts?

a fairly low-profile mag well, some type of skeletonized trigger, hammer, night sights, match-grade barrel.

i know grips dont need machining done.

can you add a pic. rail to it or does it have to forged into the frame?

how do you make the grip safety any better?

what will replacing the mainspring housing and guide rod change?

sorry for all the questions, i am new to the 1911 pistols

[Guest c.a.s.]

Sorry, but largely a lot of things need to be fitted to be the most reliable they can be. That generally requires gunsmith work of knowledge and tools. The magwell might fit, depending on how it's attached. You might have to do a bit of trimming on the back sides of the grips if it attaches to the grip screws.

In order of questions, and I am no expert:

They shouldn't

I do believe that the rail needs to be a part of the frame, I may be wrong

Probably change it to the size nad profile you want, and then possibly changing the spring in the detend to make it stiffer or lighter.

Changing the mainspring housing changes the grip shape, as far as I know. Changing the guide rod doesn't change much unless you go from a shorty to a full length. A full length guide rod adds weight to the front of the gun for sure, and any other benefits are still in debate. Supposedly, it makes taking down harder (if you have a two-piece guide rod, it does), but from my experience it isn't any harder with a single piece full-length guide rod to a stubbie.

[AH1356]

The short answer is it depends - this is one of those short questions with lots of long answers. Any one of the answers will be right in some circumstances, wrong in others, and likely to cause arguments among the 1911 fans.

You're right that grips are a piece of cake to change, assuming you stay with the same thickness. Changing grip thickness may require you to change bushings, but that's generally not tough.

Beyond that, trigger, hammer, barrel, and other parts may drop in on one 1911, require a ton of work to fit in another, and never fit others.

With what you list, mainspring housings are fairly easy to replace and in my (limited) experience have not required any fitting. I'm sure there are some mainsprings that do not fit some pistols, and obviously a Government MSH won't fit an Officer grip.

I just replaced my trigger today. The new one did not drop in to the frame and required some patient sanding to fit. I'm sure other pistols with looser tolerances would have allowed it to drop in.

I believe there are screw-on pic rail options out there but that is one that I have not personally tried.

If the grip safety improvement you're looking for is to add tension that can be done by bending the right portion of the sear spring slight backwards. Be careful and go in small increments. If that's not what you're referring too then I might be able to help if you're more specific.

Guide rods may drop in or may require fitting or may not fit at all, depending on what kind of setup you have now and what kind you want. If you have a standard GI guide rod a full length guide rod will add weight forward, which may help reduce muzzle flip. Guide rod preference will cause arguments. Go with what works for you.

Disclaimer - Disclaimer - Disclaimer. Your mileage may vary. Results not typical.

I am not a gunsmith or an 1911 expert, nor do I play one on TV. I'm just a shooter who enjoys tinkering. There are no doubt many people here with more experience than me. If you really want to learn more about 1911's, check out 1911 specific forums like forum.m1911.org. When in doubt, get an expert opinion from a gunsmith. 1911's are pretty robust, but you can break stuff if you're not careful.

Hope this is helpful.

[Guest Plainsman]

In my opinion, I would stay away from anything that "screws" onto the frame, like the rail you had mentioned. I currently have a two piece guide rod in my SA and don't care for it one bit. I have to use locktite on the screw every time just to keep the thing from coming loose during fire. Its just part of it. I'll be switching to a one piece or a short very soon simply because I hate the locktite process. Not to mention the fact that a tool is necessary to unscrew the rod to begin a field strip. I would hate to see you screw a rail onto the thing with a nice light or laser system and it all fall off at once.

Word of advise, that ya'll "senior members" probably don't need....learn how the 1911 works. Learn how to detail strip the gun. And make sure that you always go through the checkpoints of making sure the gun is rendered safe after every takedown.

[EMB145]

On the Springfield you could change to a traditional, (non-ILS), mainspring housing with a "stock" 23# mainspring. It should help it to cock a lot smoother than an ILS housing which comes with, (I think), a 28# mainspring. It should result in a lighter trigger pull as well.

I dislike the ILS because (1) It was a lawyer induced add-on. (2) If it needed it, John Browning would have designed it that way. (3) Standard parts are easier to find.

Keep us informed to what mods you make.

[StumpyBeagle]

This might be worth taking a look at. Clamps to the trigger guard instead of mounting to the frame.

Command Arms Accessories 1911 Underbarrel Rail, Shooting Supplies, Caa at Sportsman's Guide

[nightrunner]

Word of advise, that ya'll "senior members" probably don't need....learn how the 1911 works. Learn how to detail strip the gun. And make sure that you always go through the checkpoints of making sure the gun is rendered safe after every takedown.

point taken

just because i have wasted more time here than someone else does NOT mean i know anymore than the next guy

[Guest Mugster]

In my opinion, I would stay away from anything that "screws" onto the frame, like the rail you had mentioned. I currently have a two piece guide rod in my SA and don't care for it one bit. I have to use locktite on the screw every time just to keep the thing from coming loose during fire. Its just part of it. I'll be switching to a one piece or a short very soon simply because I hate the locktite process. Not to mention the fact that a tool is necessary to unscrew the rod to begin a field strip. I would hate to see you screw a rail onto the thing with a nice light or laser system and it all fall off at once.

Word of advise, that ya'll "senior members" probably don't need....learn how the 1911 works. Learn how to detail strip the gun. And make sure that you always go through the checkpoints of making sure the gun is rendered safe after every takedown.

+1.

Detail stripping a 1911 style handgun thats tightly fitted can be a beast.

The better made 1911's (arguable how much better) are all coming with rods. I wound up with a sig because it has no rod and the whole thing is machined stainless steel.

Start with a trigger job, imo.

[leroy]

+1.

Detail stripping a 1911 style handgun thats tightly fitted can be a beast.

The better made 1911's (arguable how much better) are all coming with rods. I wound up with a sig because it has no rod and the whole thing is machined stainless steel.

Start with a trigger job, imo.

I second Mugster's advice. Just went thru all this with an old 1911 lw commander for carry. A long trigger, trigger job, and good sights (those you can see -- take a close look at all of em) made the most difference in shooting. All the neat stuff; like beavertail safties (unless you have small hands), two piece guide rods, on and on; seem to be just stuff to have; and that's ok if you like them. An ambidexterious safety is a good thing if you are left handed (I am). It has been my experience that most 1911's shoot better that their owners can hold; so accuracy is always good. I don't like to do anything to a pistol or revolver that reduces the potential for reliability -- many "accurizing" accessories do just that. That said; it is probably a good idea to find a 1911 pistol smith that you like; talk to him, and tell him what you would like to do. Then you will have exactly what you want. Nineteen eleven stuff is kinda like AR 15 stuff; there's lots of toys out there that are really neat. Pick out the one's you like and get someone you trust to install 'em and make sure that they work and are reliable. The 1911 is a great thing; originally designed as a calvary arm -- the only acceptable replacement for the great colt single action army (Take the time to google for some punitive expedition pictures). Enjoy!!

Kind regards,

LEROY

[Curiousgb]

I am no expert but I have put may thousands of rounds through my 1911's. My SA has had many "accessories" added. I don't know of too many 1911 accessories that don't take some sort of fitting.

If your current pistol is reliable (feeds and ejects all ammo). I would second getting or doing a good trigger job. Also a good set of sights, though my Springer still has the stock sights. Next I would lay in several thousand rounds and shoot the snot out of it.

[Motasyco]

I just wish I had a 1911 to upgrade. I actually have had dreams about 1911s. My version of a wet dream. Yes, I know, I'm sick.

[TGO David]

Sorry, but largely a lot of things need to be fitted to be the most reliable they can be. That generally requires gunsmith work of knowledge and tools. The magwell might fit, depending on how it's attached. You might have to do a bit of trimming on the back sides of the grips if it attaches to the grip screws.

In order of questions, and I am no expert:

They shouldn't

I do believe that the rail needs to be a part of the frame, I may be wrong

Probably change it to the size nad profile you want, and then possibly changing the spring in the detend to make it stiffer or lighter.

Changing the mainspring housing changes the grip shape, as far as I know. Changing the guide rod doesn't change much unless you go from a shorty to a full length. A full length guide rod adds weight to the front of the gun for sure, and any other benefits are still in debate. Supposedly, it makes taking down harder (if you have a two-piece guide rod, it does), but from my experience it isn't any harder with a single piece full-length guide rod to a stubbie.

I'm curious... how much of this stuff have you done yourself and how much of it are you repeating second or third hand based off of what you read somewhere on the Internet or heard from someone in conversation?

[Curiousgb]

I'm curious... how much of this stuff have you done yourself and how much of it are you repeating second or third hand based off of what you read somewhere on the Internet or heard from someone in conversation?

I did all the mods to my springer. Even fitting a new barrel. All done with hand tools. Like I said every piece I installed required some sort of fitting. Except maybe grips. None of it difficult it just takes some patience and research. Try digging around on this site, 1911Forum - Powered by vBulletin

[TGO David]

I was actually aiming that question only at CAS. If he's done that stuff at the age of 17, he's got a serious leg up on a lot of folks his age and that's a tremendous accomplishment.

[Guest c.a.s.]

I'm curious... how much of this stuff have you done yourself and how much of it are you repeating second or third hand based off of what you read somewhere on the Internet or heard from someone in conversation?

MOSTLY what I've read. I, personally, haven't done any modifications to mom's PT1911, but I had dissembled it to the farthest point I could to gain a rudimentary understanding of it's "upgrades" from the factory.

I don't have enough tools to really modify any firearms, other than actual drop-in parts or VERY minor fitting.

[Curiousgb]

I was actually aiming that question only at CAS. If he's done that stuff at the age of 17, he's got a serious leg up on a lot of folks his age and that's a tremendous accomplishment.

Sorry I missed that "small" bit of information.

[Guest Plainsman]

MOSTLY what I've read. I, personally, haven't done any modifications to mom's PT1911, but I had dissembled it to the farthest point I could to gain a rudimentary understanding of it's "upgrades" from the factory.

I don't have enough tools to really modify any firearms, other than actual drop-in parts or VERY minor fitting.

Those PT1911's from Taurus seem to be everywhere for sale these days. I understand that they "upgrades" they offer are good for the price, but have heard of some issues of the ambi safety coming loose. Have you had any trouble?

[Guest c.a.s.]

Not a single one, actually. And I'm not the only one. The largest problem was that in some of the older ones, they weren't properly pressed together. Move the safety inbetween fire and safe (UNLOADED NO MAG, duh) and press them together as hard as you can. Some of the older ones were just simply not the correct size, though it could generally be fixed by LIGHTLY crimping the tabs on the half with them.

This is according to the Taurus Armed forums, PT1911 section, anyway.

A lot of people don't like the straight-eight sights, and the dovetail they are in is proprietary. I think someone else makes night sites for it, but that's a legitimate concern. And a lot of people don't like the FLGR (I sure don't mind since it's a one-piece)

[Guest gcrookston]

In my experience the 1911 is a finicky platform to modify. I've messed a few up that I have humbly submitted to a smithy for repair (trigger jobs, barrels that were supposed to be drop-in, etc).

Hero-Gear has a 1911 Guru on-sight now, and this guy really knows the ins-and-outs of 1911s. I've seen his work and he is a Master in every sense of the word.

Very reasonable pricing, btw, I have told him he undervalues, but he won't come up to market pricing.

I would recommend you have your gun inspected by Jeff down @ Hero-Gear, tell him what it does and what you would like it to do. He can make it happen for you.

In the display case there are about half a dozen 1911's he's built. The guy knows his business and again he knows these junky old army guns inside and out....

He will build my next 1911, and I've had most of the "great ones" , Nighthawk, Wilson, Colt, Baer... His are better....

Catch him before he's famous...

[Cherokee Slim]

The 1911 Forum has a "How to" section. I used what I found there to change a grip safety. There is a lot of good info there.

Cherokee Slim

1911 'How-To's' and FAQ - 1911Forum