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How-to: Smith & Wesson J-frame lock removal.


Mike

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Posted

I had my J frame 340pd lock up on me the other day when the "safety" lock was activated under fire.

I had put about 30ish rounds through it when it happened. Total lock-up. No function.

Easy as pie.

On mine, I took the flag and ground the nub off though. That way I didn't have a hole in the side of my pistol.

Now the lock can be in either position to no effect.

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Guest truthsayer
Posted

That's the same guide I used when I took the lock out of mine. Works like a charm.

Posted
That's the same guide I used when I took the lock out of mine. Works like a charm.

Didn't you post the same thing a couple or few months ago? Just wondering if I need to worry about my 442 or if it's a .357 thing. Have put several hundred rounds through it the .38 with no problems but do not trust that lock.

Posted

It's more likely to happen on the .357 due to the recoil, I'd imagine. It could happen on a .38 too under the right circumstances.

Posted

did anyone pick up on the critical error at the start of the video? he never checked the weapon to see that it was unloaded. that is a deadly error when servicing a gun. good purpose, but bad filming IMHO.

Guest truthsayer
Posted

I had a 442 that I put a a few thousand rounds through with no problems. However, its such an easy bit of insurance to take the blasted thing out....

Posted
I had my J frame 340pd lock up on me the other day when the "safety" lock was activated under fire.

I had put about 30ish rounds through it when it happened. Total lock-up. No function.

Easy as pie.

On mine, I took the flag and ground the nub off though. That way I didn't have a hole in the side of my pistol.

Now the lock can be in either position to no effect.

Sure wished he had ground the nub off so I could see where it needed to be removed at.:)

Posted
did anyone pick up on the critical error at the start of the video? he never checked the weapon to see that it was unloaded. that is a deadly error when servicing a gun. good purpose, but bad filming IMHO.

thats something you do BEFORE you start filming.

Posted
Sure wished he had ground the nub off so I could see where it needed to be removed at.:)

I snagged the picture from the S&W forum. Here is one of the many threads about it….

Removing The S&W Internal Lock (Video) - Topic Powered by Eve For Enterprise

This was also in another thread…

I am sure this has been discussed
ad infinitum
, but any opinions would be welcome. When removing the lock, is it enough to simply remove the "flag" with the stud or should the entire lock assembly be removed?

I discussed this with a performance center guy at the S&W display at the SHOT Show and told him about the video. He indicated that if you just remove the flag there is a possibility that the remaining parts can become dislodged and drop down and tie up the action. Based on my conversation with him, I would either remove the whole thing and leave the hole exposed or I would grind off the stud and replace the flag in the frame. I definitely would NOT follow the advice on the video that is mentioned.

LockingLug.jpg

x

Guest grimel
Posted
Didn't you post the same thing a couple or few months ago? Just wondering if I need to worry about my 442 or if it's a .357 thing. Have put several hundred rounds through it the .38 with no problems but do not trust that lock.

It is a scadium issue. IIRC, over 135gr +P in the 342 or 135gr 357 mag ammo will make it happen. If you stay with 38spl standard pressure it isn't an issue. Personally, I shoot 135gr +P in my 342. I have a prelock or I'd be grinding it off.

Guest truthsayer
Posted
It is a scadium issue. IIRC, over 135gr +P in the 342 or 135gr 357 mag ammo will make it happen. If you stay with 38spl standard pressure it isn't an issue. Personally, I shoot 135gr +P in my 342. I have a prelock or I'd be grinding it off.

It can happen in stainless .357s, too. Mine was a 640.

Guest twelvevoltman_69
Posted
did anyone pick up on the critical error at the start of the video? he never checked the weapon to see that it was unloaded. that is a deadly error when servicing a gun. good purpose, but bad filming IMHO.

Did you notice when he was installing the side cover that the gun IS LOADED??

Posted
Did you notice when he was installing the side cover that the gun IS LOADED??

I saw the same thing. I did go to the link that DaveTN posted and saw the following note by the video creator.

In the latter part of the video you can see what appears to be cartridges in the cylinder. In one of my editing sessions this clip found it’s way into the video. Yes, they are my home made snap caps. I reload so I have decapped some spent cartridges and reseated a bullet in each case. I did this for 35 empty cases and I use them in my speed loaders to practice my reloading. I like to enter the local “Action Pistol†competition.

  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

"I discussed this with a performance center guy at the S&W display at the SHOT Show and told him about the video. He indicated that if you just remove the flag there is a possibility that the remaining parts can become dislodged and drop down and tie up the action. Based on my conversation with him, I would either remove the whole thing and leave the hole exposed or I would grind off the stud and replace the flag in the frame. I definitely would NOT follow the advice on the video that is mentioned. "

As the flag has nothing to do with holding the rest of the parts in, the S&W PC guy has just admitted that the mechanism is designed in such a manner that the lock can dislodge and block gun. Nice.

I have removed the flag on my 642. I will shoot it every two weeks this summer and check the lock regularly. I personally think the PC guy is full of it. I cannot see how the rest of the lock can work loose (come out) with the hammer pressed hard against it. The flag moving is the only lateral move that I can see blocking the gun and the flag is gone. I don't understand how there could be any vertical movement, and that is all that is left.

Edited by wjh2657

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