Gun Safe Vendors

[Guest 70below]

Anybody have any experience with the digital safes? Seems like a bad idea. I don't like the thought of not being able to open my safe it something happens to the electronics or the battery is dead.

[Motasyco]

My new safe has a digital lock. It can be opened with a key that comes with it. Instructions included. You'll have to know how to get to where the key is inserted. Don't lock the key in the safe!

[Fadex]

I watched the video and while they made it look pretty simple. I have to wonder how long it would have taken, or if it would have been possible under actual circumstances?

My safe came from Dicks, but its bolted to the floor and the wall behind it. In addition, the left side is against another wall. It would be almost impossible to generate that type of leverage with the safe standing up and no place for the lever to move.

[Shark1591]

The ONE main thing I looked for in a safe was MADE IN USA.

When looking I found that there are plenty of safes and cabinets made right here at home for the same price as the China imports. I also found there some safes that were made in the USA five years ago that are now made in China.

I did spend a little more but I did want a high fire rating, good warranty and bars all the way around the door. Not all Liberty safes are made in the USA but mine was.

[av88tor]

Don't think just because you have your safe bolted down that it will keep the bad guys from getting into your safe, as a matter of fact bolting down a cheap safe lets them get a more firm hold with a pry bar. The safe I replaced last week that was pried open was bolted down and it took the two guys a short time to get into the safe. Just remember that your security should be layered, ie locks on your doors, an alarm, neighborhood watch, etc ..... not just a safe.

As for electronic vs mechanical locks, once again if you get a quality electonic lock you probably won't have any problems with it. Most if not all electronic locks have the battery compartment on the out side of the safe so you can replace the batteries when they run down. I would recommend either a S & G swing bolt or a Lagard basic electronic lock for a gun safe, simple and easy to use and program. There are locks out there that don't require batteries but they are more expensive. The better electronic's have a over ride code that can open the safe if the code is lost. Most of the better safe companies keep this code and you can get it through a authorized dealer or locksmith. As for electronic locks having a key over ride I have not seen that before, if the lock fails it doesn't have a key over ride.

Mechanical locks are more reliable but the electronic locks are more user friendly.

The safe in the security on sale video is a Liberty Gun safe.........:

Edited June 1, 2009 by av88tor
added text

[56FordGuy]

Av88tor, I take it from your posts that you work with safes on a regular basis. What do you recommend for a good, basic safe?

My issue with most of the 'gun safes' I've seen is the construction material. It seems like almost all of them are made of 10 gauge sheet metal. Has anyone ever really looked at a piece of 10 gauge? It's not all that thick. I've actually toyed with the idea of buying a cheap gun locker and welding some serious (1/4", 5/16") steel to the insides myself. While that's probably overkill, I'd like to see something stouter than sheet metal.

[Fadex]

Don't think just because you have your safe bolted down that it will keep the bad guys from getting into your safe, as a matter of fact bolting down a cheap safe lets them get a more firm hold with a pry bar. The safe I replaced last week that was pried open was bolted down and it took the two guys a short time to get into the safe. Just remember that your security should be layered, ie locks on your doors, an alarm, neighborhood watch, etc ..... not just a safe.

As for electronic vs mechanical locks, once again if you get a quality electonic lock you probably won't have any problems with it. Most if not all electronic locks have the battery compartment on the out side of the safe so you can replace the batteries when they run down. I would recommend either a S & G swing bolt or a Lagard basic electronic lock for a gun safe, simple and easy to use and program. There are locks out there that don't require batteries but they are more expensive. The better electronic's have a over ride code that can open the safe if the code is lost. Most of the better safe companies keep this code and you can get it through a authorized dealer or locksmith. As for electronic locks having a key over ride I have not seen that before, if the lock fails it doesn't have a key over ride.

Mechanical locks are more reliable but the electronic locks are more user friendly.

The safe in the security on sale video is a Liberty Gun safe.........:

You can try to pry all day long, but if you don't have the room for the pry bar to move the door isn't gonna open.

[Guest JHatmaker]

Was reading through the post concerning gun safes and had to comment on the low cost safes bought at TSC, Dicks , Academy , etc. All I have to say is don't leave a screw driver or crowbar close to your "safe" because you can pry them open in under 2 minutes with no problem.

I'll give you a $1000 if you can pry my safe open with a screwdriver in 2 minutes. Crowbar....maybe, but I doubt it. I know these aren't the best solution, but for right now they'll do.

If somone does break in to my house, if the alarm doesn't scare them away, they won't have time to try and pry the door off.

Trust me, I'd rather have a big, fireproof safe and will get one soon. But they are better than nothing and aren't "that" cheap...

[Guest ScottD]

I'll give you a $1000 if you can pry my safe open with a screwdriver in 2 minutes. Crowbar....maybe, but I doubt it. I know these aren't the best solution, but for right now they'll do.

If somone does break in to my house, if the alarm doesn't scare them away, they won't have time to try and pry the door off.

Trust me, I'd rather have a big, fireproof safe and will get one soon. But they are better than nothing and aren't "that" cheap...

I'll take ya up on that (as long as I don't have to pay to fix it ).

[I_Like_Pie]

The problem is that...if you have physical access to something + time...you really aren't that safe (pun intended).

All one has to do is poke a hole in it. Isn't really difficult to do if the situation presents itself properly regardless of the manufacturer of the safe. If there is any leverage point at all...it can be busted. We portrait thieves as neanderthals...they aren't stupid...just opportunistic.

That is incorrect, check out this video and maybe you will change your mind.

Actually...I probably would do something different with respect to safe choice if I had to actually set it in the middle of a gymnasium like that video.

Don't get me wrong...If I had a top shelf collection I would probably be in a situation to actually invest in a 1" armor plated gunsafe.

It makes it a little more difficult if they have to bust out 3 walls, pry it off the floor, the wall, move it (despite the 800+ # weight) to somewhere more open, and pry it. All the while having to beat the alarm, the dog, and the nosy neighbors wondering why the heck people are sawing in the house next door in one of the very few times where there is nobody at the house. All respect intended, but a "regular" safe is perfectly adequate for most circumstances.

They are not the "best" but just like most other products....the best is for those who simply do not know any better.

Edited June 2, 2009 by I_Like_Pie

[Guest JHatmaker]

I'll take ya up on that (as long as I don't have to pay to fix it ).

Ha ha! There's the hidden gotcha...

[TN9mm]

All one has to do is poke a hole in it.

Yup..my safe is pretty decent for what it is. 1/4 solid steel all the way around and a very sturdy locking system, but I could cut a hole in the side of that thing with an angle grinder and a metal cutting wheel in a matter of minutes. I do have insurance if that ever happens.

[Guest Hillbilly1964]

The advice I would give first to a potential safe shopper is to talk to the ones who open the safes...your local locksmith.

[Guest Chefjeep]

I've been looking at the canon safes...anyone have any experiences with these?

[av88tor]

The problem is that...if you have physical access to something + time...you really aren't that safe (pun intended).

All one has to do is poke a hole in it. Isn't really difficult to do if the situation presents itself properly regardless of the manufacturer of the safe. If there is any leverage point at all...it can be busted. We portrait thieves as neanderthals...they aren't stupid...just opportunistic.

Actually...I probably would do something different with respect to safe choice if I had to actually set it in the middle of a gymnasium like that video.

Don't get me wrong...If I had a top shelf collection I would probably be in a situation to actually invest in a 1" armor plated gunsafe.

It makes it a little more difficult if they have to bust out 3 walls, pry it off the floor, the wall, move it (despite the 800+ # weight) to somewhere more open, and pry it. All the while having to beat the alarm, the dog, and the nosy neighbors wondering why the heck people are sawing in the house next door in one of the very few times where there is nobody at the house. All respect intended, but a "regular" safe is perfectly adequate for most circumstances.

They are not the "best" but just like most other products....the best is for those who simply do not know any better.

"the best is for those who simply do not know better" ???? Sorry but you are going to have to explain that one for me...... does that mean that you can buy a piece of junk if you think you are smart or that some people are educated above there intelligence level and think that they know more than they really do????

[av88tor]

I've been looking at the canon safes...anyone have any experiences with these?

Cannons upper level safes are pretty good, the ones that you see in the big box stores are priced low for a reason and are not worth having.

Edited June 8, 2009 by av88tor

[av88tor]

I'll give you a $1000 if you can pry my safe open with a screwdriver in 2 minutes. Crowbar....maybe, but I doubt it. I know these aren't the best solution, but for right now they'll do.

If somone does break in to my house, if the alarm doesn't scare them away, they won't have time to try and pry the door off.

Trust me, I'd rather have a big, fireproof safe and will get one soon. But they are better than nothing and aren't "that" cheap...

Hatmaker,

Don't get all bent out of shape when someone says that your safe can be pried open easily. Under the right circumstances all of the lower end gun safes on the market can be opened like a tin can. I have been in the gun safe / safe business for the past 16 years and have seen all types of safes opened by just about every possible method. It would shock you if you knew how easy it is to pop open a "good" gun safe. I just replaced 4 safes in the past month that had been opened by "dumb" criminals, that just so happen to disable alarm systems, get passed dogs and nosiy neighbors. While I don't know what brand safe you have, I will say that it is better than nothing, but don't get a false sense of security just because you have it bolted down and up against a wall or in a closet.

[av88tor]

Av88tor, I take it from your posts that you work with safes on a regular basis. What do you recommend for a good, basic safe?

My issue with most of the 'gun safes' I've seen is the construction material. It seems like almost all of them are made of 10 gauge sheet metal. Has anyone ever really looked at a piece of 10 gauge? It's not all that thick. I've actually toyed with the idea of buying a cheap gun locker and welding some serious (1/4", 5/16") steel to the insides myself. While that's probably overkill, I'd like to see something stouter than sheet metal.

Most of the gun safes that you find in your big box stores are made out of 12 gauge steel or less. Some have composite doors made out of the same gauge steel. The door bolts are generally 1 inch chrome plated steel. The better safes are made out of 10 gauge steel for the body and the composite door, some have 1/14 to 1/12 inch door bolts. The upper end safes have 7 gauge ( 3/16) bodies and heavier doors, usually 1/2 plate with a 10 to 7 gauge inner liner for the composite door. There are a few safes on the market that have heavier gauge metal but they are about double to triple the price of the other safes. What all of this boils down to is that you have to determine what you are putting in your safe and what your risk is for a break in.

What I recommend is first and foremost, what you can afford, The minimum that I stock at my showroom is a 1 inch composite door, 12 guage body, 1 inch door bolts, 45 minute fire rated safe. What I suggest is a minimum of 1 to 1 1/2 hour fire rating, 1 1/4 inch door bolts and a 10 guage body.

I always recommend a layered approach to security, the more barriers you put in front of a criminal the better. Start with a good lock on your doors, an alarm system, good lighting around your house, nosiy neighbors, and a good quality safe.

[Guest redbarron06]

I spent about 6 years working in the ATM buisness and I can tell you for sure, that given the time and tools just about any body can get into just about any safe including bank vaults. Now that being said, a safe that would keep crooks out of it for an entire weekend and them using the tools of thier choice probally does not exist for the price less than a new car.

Like an earlier poster said security is in layers. A good quality safe needs to be placed in the right place and bolted down. Backed up with alarms, locks and other devices. The question is are you buying a safe that will keep everying nice and tidy until the cows come home or are you making it so difficult for the guy to get into that it will not be worth his effort.

I am also looking into safes right now and will be getting a safe that has a 1200 degree for 45 minute rating. I wish I could get higher but the budget wont allow it at this time. I will be bolting it down in a concave area of my basement with the hinges in the only direction that you would be able to get any leverage in. The ceiling is short and that will prevent and entry from the top and in order to gain accees to the weak side they would need to take out a wall as it will be inset 10-12 inches from the corner. I will also be upgraded the lock to a MAS-HAmilton eletronic lock. It uses no batteries but you basicly wind it up because it has an internal power maker and capacitor (like the shaker flash lights) Could somebody still get it yes. Are they going to do it while I am alseep up stairs without waking me up, nope. They will have to be alone in the house, have tools and be determined.

As far as warentee the safe I am looking at the company sells it with a free replacement to the doorstep warentee. You have a fire and the house falls on it and they bring a new one to the door.

[Guest Chefjeep]

As far as warentee the safe I am looking at the company sells it with a free replacement to the doorstep warentee. You have a fire and the house falls on it and they bring a new one to the door.

yep let me know who those vendors are i'm looking to get a safe....and now i am more confused than when i started looking

thanks

Grant

[threeshot]

yep let me know who those vendors are i'm looking to get a safe....and now i am more confused than when i started looking

thanks

Grant

Have you visited The Safe House?

The Safe House: nashvillesafehouse.com :: Professional Safe Movers, Commercial and Residential Safes, Gun Safes, Safe Rental, Safe Service and Repair, serving Middle Tennessee

[MacGyver]

I recently bought a safe from the Safe House and can thoroughly recommend them. Prices were competitive and the service was spectacular.

[Guest flyfishtn]

I recently bought a safe from the Safe House and can thoroughly recommend them. Prices were competitive and the service was spectacular.

Yes, I bought one a few months back and they are awesome. The customer service and delivery was top notch! I drank the Koolaid!

[Guest Chefjeep]

safe house...haven't been yet how are their prices? if ya don't mind me asking how much did they get you set up for?

[I_Like_Pie]

"the best is for those who simply do not know better" ????

Are very few true instances where the following applies...

"the best money can buy" = "the most expensive made"

Most people don't see those as mutually exclusive and assume that more money = better for their application. So rather than thinking of the application of the product and the particular environment to which it will be subjected...they simply look at what the average product in the marketplace happens to be and assume that something with more features, higher cost, or shinier paint is "better." This is the case with cars, guns, food, vacations, houses, an just about anything else you come in contact with on a day to day basis. Someone will argue that BMW is the best money can buy...What they don't know is that when you really dig down to knitty gritty of it...they would be perfectly happy in other products as well. Some of which may actually provide better suitability to their needs at lower cost.

Actually - this is the basis of gradient consumerism that we call market capitalism.

In context to this thread we are talking gun safes. One can make the argument that the "best" for any application is a 1800lb, 1" thick gunsafe that is practically unbreakable. We are actually having the discussion that people are short changing themselves when purchasing a retail box gunsafe...as it is not the "Best"

The truth is that the average schmuck has a couple of H&R break actions, a rifle, a pistol or two, and maybe an old .22 that grandpa killed pigs with at the slaughterhouse. I'll be willing to bet that this would even fit the profile of the average member here at TGO. Ask them what the "best" safe that they could use would be and they would tell you exactly what you are trying to sell...overkill for their application.

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Bringing it all back to my statement "the best is for those who simply do not know better"

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To drive the point home...these $400 or so safes are perfect for their particular application. It is the "best" that they can buy? Well if they don't know any better they will tell you no...it is a compromise and they just didn't have enough money for the "best". The flip side of the coin is some person who has $1200 worth of guns and actually did buy the most expensive item that you folks are selling...a great example of the saying that "a fool and his money are soon departed"

Most people want the following from a gunsafe...

- Place to put their guns in one place

- To keep children out

- To provide a time-barrier for thieves

...A $400 safe will meet those needs for the average TN gunowner. Proper insurance and an alarm system will take care of the rest.

There are, to your point, people who do, in fact, need the extra security. If anyone has a MG or a lot of heirloom pieces the top dollar safes will fit their needs perfectly. But even then the "best" that they can buy will be a compromise of sorts simply because they are trying to reach an impossible goal of 100% total and absolute security.

Not trying to be argumentative. Just trying to make the point that the folks reading this thread are not under secured with a run of the mill safe.