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Wanted: Toyota Rav4


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Posted
47 minutes ago, GlockSpock said:

I'm looking to hopefully purchase an older Rav4. It doesn't necessarily have to meet the exact criteria, but if you have one you'd like to sale and are reasonably within the Cleveland area, let's talk.

Roughly 2010 - 2016

<130,000

 

I'd like to offer an unsolicited piece of advice from someone that owns a 2012. Try to find one that had the optional V6. The MPG will be slightly worse but it will have a lot more power and it was the more reliable engine. 

We have the 2.5L 4 cylinder and I sometimes wish we had splurged when we bought this one new in 2012. Some of the 2.5L's burn oil. My FIL has a 2012 with the 2.5L and his burns a ton of oil. I think it's mainly from folks that tried to do 10k miles oil changes. I've always changed ours every 3-5k. 

We love ours though. We're at 163k and the only parts that have failed is a radiator hose and alternator. She's easy to work on too. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, Erik88 said:

I'd like to offer an unsolicited piece of advice from someone that owns a 2012. Try to find one that had the optional V6. The MPG will be slightly worse but it will have a lot more power and it was the more reliable engine. 

We have the 2.5L 4 cylinder and I sometimes wish we had splurged when we bought this one new in 2012. Some of the 2.5L's burn oil. My FIL has a 2012 with the 2.5L and his burns a ton of oil. I think it's mainly from folks that tried to do 10k miles oil changes. I've always changed ours every 3-5k. 

We love ours though. We're at 163k and the only parts that have failed is a radiator hose and alternator. She's easy to work on too.

All advice is welcome here, even if unsolicited.

https://jpautocenters.com/vehicles/9101221-2012-TOYOTA-RAV4/

I almost worked a deal for that one today. I think they want to get rid of it, because he told me $10,500 as soon as I asked to test drive it. I told him I was in the $9,000 range, he offered $9,900 before tax/fees.

He worked it up to $11,167.30 but then told me he'd do $11,000 OTD when I was leaving. I told him if he would instead remove the $300.00 Dec fee we'd have a deal. He let me walk for a difference of $200.00.

Disclaimer: It does have a cracked front windshield, bald tires, likely needs brakes soon, and some scratches here and there.

It may be a good deal but I figured no need to get in a hurry.

Edited by GlockSpock
Posted
41 minutes ago, GlockSpock said:

All advice is welcome here, even if unsolicited.

https://jpautocenters.com/vehicles/9101221-2012-TOYOTA-RAV4/

I almost worked a deal for that one today. I think they want to get rid of it, because he told me $10,500 as soon as I asked to test drive it. I told him I was in the $9,000 range, he offered $9,900 before tax/fees.

He worked it up to $11,167.30 but then told me he'd do $11,000 OTD when I was leaving. I told him if he would instead remove the $300.00 Dec fee we'd have a deal. He let me walk for a difference of $200.00.

Disclaimer: It does have a cracked front windshield, bald tires, likely needs brakes soon, and some scratches here and there.

It may be a good deal but I figured no need to get in a hurry.

That seems a little high for what appears to be a base model. Also, not sure if you want 4x4 or not. You could likely save a little with 2 wheel drive. I think you can find something equivalent for $8-9k. I wouldn't be scared to go a little higher on miles if you had maintenance records. Sometimes lower mileage is actually worse because it can indicate a lot of city driving. 

 

Another tip, you can enter the VIN number on Toyotas website and it should show you any work that's ever been done at a Toyota dealership. Including any recalls. 

 

Posted
1 minute ago, GlockSpock said:

I'm pretty sure my Wife is going to say that a Highlander is too big, but shoot me a photo and mileage via PM. She's coming "up" from a Honda Fit, I'm just glad I've got her to consider the RAV4!

LOL! I've no idea how the female brain works. My wife is thoroughly convinced a full sized pickup truck will not fit in a regulation parking space. I finally talked her into a 4 runner, and you'd think she's driving a Euclid rear dump.

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Posted
5 minutes ago, gregintenn said:

LOL! I've no idea how the female brain works. My wife is thoroughly convinced a full sized pickup truck will not fit in a regulation parking space. I finally talked her into a 4 runner, and you'd think she's driving a Euclid rear dump.

I've got a 4th Gen 4runner and she complains to me anytime she's ever driven it.

  • Like 1
Posted
11 minutes ago, gregintenn said:

LOL! I've no idea how the female brain works. My wife is thoroughly convinced a full sized pickup truck will not fit in a regulation parking space. I finally talked her into a 4 runner, and you'd think she's driving a Euclid rear dump.

 

6 minutes ago, GlockSpock said:

I've got a 4th Gen 4runner and she complains to me anytime she's ever driven it.

Right.  My wife drives a RAV4 and says my 4Runner is a big SUV.  A friend has a 2001 crew cab long bed F250 he calls "Hank the Tank."  I think she needs to take Hank for a spin to get some perspective.  

Posted (edited)
59 minutes ago, GlockSpock said:

I've got a 4th Gen 4runner and she complains to me anytime she's ever driven it.

My wife won't let me sell Ravioli which is why we've had it 13 years. With the seats folded down you'll be shocked how much it can haul. Keeping the spare tire on the rear door frees up a ton of cargo space inside. We were able to haul a dining room table inside ours. 

 

Edited by Erik88
Posted
1 hour ago, gregintenn said:

I change my Tacoma at 10k. Still full and I never have to add oil. It's got 170k miles on it.

Been doing that since it was new?  If anything will hold up to neglect, it’s an iron block Toyota four cylinder, but oil changes are cheap insurance.  

The engineers may tap their heels together three times before wishing their new whizbang formula will last 15k or whatever the latest claim is, but what mechanics are finding five years down the road is a lot more relevant.  

Posted

Oil breaks down the older it gets and loses its ability to lubricate.  It may even break down and begin to turn to sludge.  Below are a few examples of what old oil can do to an engine.  A 3000 mile interval was the standard in the old days, but newer oils can go longer (but I personally don't trust any of them past 5k or so).  Guys with lab coats who never work on cars claim that their products can now protect engines for 10k or even 20k miles, but reality is that many newer cars are significantly burning oil after 70k or 80k miles and dealers shrug their shoulders when customer complain and reply that this is normal and acceptable.  This didn't used to be the case.  Some theorize that manufacturers planned this so they can sell new cars or expensive repair jobs.  That sounds a little far-fetched; I think a more likely explanation is that the Marketing department started listening to the lab coat geeks and decided they could claim their cars now require less maintenance.  If you sell your car after 50k miles, I guess it's not your concern, but if you plan to keep it a long time, oil changes are cheap insurance.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

The newer models take increasingly thin oil in order to meet the government mandated mileage standards.  Changing the oil ahead of the stated interval is cheap insurance and one of the best things you can do to help insure against premature wear.  My Toyota uses 0w16 and I always change it between 5 to 7000 miles.  

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