Reloading tips you don’t mind sharing

[gregintenn]

After 40+ years in the hobby, I have a couple.

1) You will never write down too much information. Keep a reloading/shooting journal for each caliber and or firearm. A younger me thought I would always remember X. Wrong!!!! Write it down and put it where you can find it.

2) If you see it for sale and think there is a chance you might ever be able to use it, take it home with you. I’ve never once wished I had less reloading supplies.

 

What have you got to add???

[gun sane]

Remember the "ladder method."  Start with the minimum load data and work up to the maximum in tenths of grain increments.  I usually find a load my guns like somewhere in the middle.  It saves powder and excessive wear on the firearm, too.  There are many horror stories out there from guys who started on the high end and sorely regretted it.  

If you can shoot in a place that allows you to set up a chronograph, buy one.  It's a great tool for finding acceptable velocities and estimating pressures.

[Alleycat72]

Quick load is fantastic, but not perfect. 

Everyone in the house knows about my reloading Bible. Everything is written down. 

When loading subsonic rounds, always put each loaded round on the scale. This will tell you if you have a double charge or a squib.

[slickrick0999]

@gun sane mentioned getting a chronograph. 

I will add to this.  They are very useful tools but I believe they all tell "little white lies".  By this I mean you have to true out the velocity on targets at different ranges to really know.

Also, when developing loads, try to do as much chrono testing in one range visit as you can to limit variable results from the chronograph.   To be honest, the method we use can be done with the chronograph and not even looking at targets.   We just use the data to find a "node" of acceptable velocity deviation. 

This is just how we do it, not saying it is the only way or even the right way for you. 

Have a great day

[jpx2rk]

I make up a folder with the targets I shoot when doing load development.  I try to write down all the pertinent info about the load, such as brass make, primer, powder, bullet, the OAL, FL or NS brass, to document what the test loads do/perform on the target itself.  This also helps me to keep from testing a combo 2x or more when that combo didn't meet expectations, etc.  I may have several different folders for each gun depending on what I'm after.  Sometimes just a powder change does not warrant a separate folder, unless I keep changing up some things to see if the load  improves or not.

[Garufa]

Take your time and be methodical.  I only have an old RCBS Rock Chucker so when I get a notion to reload it’s very easy to check everything, then check it again.

Also, I weigh the powder drop every 10 rounds and eyeball the powder level in all cases before capping them off when making up a batch.  Only thing worse than a round with no powder is one with twice the powder.

Edited January 27 by Garufa

[gun sane]

51 minutes ago, Garufa said:

Take your time and be methodical.  

Amen to that.  I practice a shell placement system that helps me to keep track of where I'm at in the process:

1.  I start with the case mouths up in the tray and turn each one mouth down after priming.  When I see the primers on all the cases, I know I didn't miss any.

2.  The cases go mouth up after each gets its powder drop and I verify the level with a flashlight after the run is finished.

3.  I push the bullet snugly into every case before seating to keep out contaminants and prevent accidental spillage.

4.  The cartridge is placed in a separate container after the bullet is seated so I don't mix them up with the others.

Following this process, I've never had a kaboom or a fizzle.

 

 

[gregintenn]

Tumbling:

Lizard bedding from a pet store is much cheaper than comparable corn cob media sold at a reloading store. 
 

A squirt of NuFinish car polish in the media really shines up the brass.

 

A used dryer sheet thrown into the tumbling process extends the life of your media by keeping it cleaner.

[deerslayer]

Along with gun, bullet, powder, charge, OAL, etc, write down the temperature (when chronographing).  Some loads will slow down or speed up depending on the temperature. 

Edited January 28 by deerslayer

[Grayfox54]

We all make mistakes.   Sometimes you find yourself having to break down those mistakes with a hammer type bullet puller. Forget about that irritating spring loaded case holder that comes with it. Instead, use the shell holder from your die set. It fits perfectly in the hammer, is fast and easy to use. 

[Darrell]

7 hours ago, Grayfox54 said:

Instead, use the shell holder from your die set.

I've been using a hammer-puller for a century or so, and never knew that. And yeah, the spring holder is irritating. Thanks, Grayfox54, I'm going to use that tip next time I have to pull a bullet.

[Jamie Jackson]

Thanks for starting this thread @gregintenn.

I 100% agree on notes. I still have the small notebook I started in 1987 and have expanded to a 3 ring binder. I use a combination of handwritten and typed (Word Doc). 

IMHO everyone serious about handloading needs a chronograph. Sure, you can get by using published data, but all guns have their idiosyncrasies, especially revolvers related to their B/C gap IME. My LCR's tend to run 15-30 fps faster than my Smith's on most loads.

You don't have to spend a fortune on a chrono. While I have a PACT I generally use my CE ProChrono and have for several years now. It's just simple and easy.

I too use Lizard bedding. It's inexpensive and I can pick it up locally...like less than 2 miles from my home.

Lights! Bright Lights!

I have fluorescent lights in the ceiling of my reloading room and I have one mounted under the bottom shelf on my reloading bench directly over my presses.

I use an Inline Fabrication LED light on my old Dillon 550. It replaced a flashlight I had taped onto it for a number of years. Awesome lighting for this press.

I'm in the process of building another "sister" bench for my main reloading bench and will be installing an under the shelf  fluorescent light onto it as well. The close in lighting really shines when working on the internals of a revolver.  

Speaking of such. Having a handy camera, like a phone, really helps when doing a disassembly of a revolver and for taking photos of chrono data at the range to later transfer into my notebook.

@Grayfox54 Excellent tip! I've used an inertial "magic bullet eraser" for years and have never even thought of using a shell holder... Darn. Thank you!

 

Lot's of great tips folks! Thank you for sharing.

 

Edited January 30 by Jamie Jackson
spelling as usual

[Nikiski Dave]

I have 4-5  reloading books. I also have 7 small notebooks with load information. I always resize and trim new brass before it gets primed. I do it to all my brass. Less problems.. Once you find a load your rifle LOVES high lite it. Remember it is suppose to be relaxing for you

[Thursty]

My biggest thing is don’t do something else while you’re loading. I used to listen to podcasts, and I’ve had more than one round not get powder. Now I don’t do anything while reloading except for that. And if my wife comes to talk to me she knows I’m not paying attention until the bullet I’m working on goes in the ammo carrier. 

[ohell]

This one hangs out on my bench as a reminder.  Carefulling in process hammered out above.  Fast powders with poor case fill….. you can never be too careful.   Not a scratch here, but I always wonder how this would have turned out if it wasn’t a plated HBwc.  Shot out the tip like a rocket and burned through the cylinder stop notch on a s&w 64 scorching top strap.  I think I shared on here a decade ago but here’s a reality show reminder.  worse things have happened with factory loaded ammo, so don’t get complacent on the shooter side. 

[leroy]

If ya have a progressive loader ( I do... A Dillon 650 ), I would strongly recommend that ya choose a powder that cannot double charge a case without spilling out of the case. 

Using fast burning powders in progressive loaders is a genuine hazard, even if ya can see in every case.  

If you use a single stage press, look at the powder level in every case.

  I habitually prep and expand the cases, then I add powder as a stand alone step, usually prepping them 50 at a time. 

I then look in every single case to verify the powder level.  I also may check weigh the powder charge out of a few of the cases as well. 

I find myself reloading more and more in the old single stage press than the Dillon; especially when loading the bigger cases with powders like Unique, 231, or Titegroup...

leroy.  

Edited February 10 by leroy

[gregintenn]

1 hour ago, leroy said:

If ya have a progressive loader ( I do... A Dillon 650 ), I would strongly recommend that ya choose a powder that cannot double charge a case without spilling out of the case. 

Using fast burning powders in progressive loaders is a genuine hazard, even if ya can see in every case.  

If you use a single stage press, look at the powder level in every case.

  I habitually prep and expand the cases, then I add powder as a stand alone step, usually prepping them 50 at a time. 

I then look in every single case to verify the powder level.  I also may check weigh the powder charge out of a few of the cases as well. 

I find myself reloading more and more in the old single stage press than the Dillon; especially when loading the bigger cases with powdersije Unique, 231, or Titegroup...

leroy.  

I’ve not progressed beyond a single stage. I clean, size, and prep cases in batches, and store them until such time I want to reload them. I’ll then charge one case, grab a bullet, and load that round. Repeat. I realize this isn’t the most efficient way to do it, but it works for me. I know they’d be handy, but I’ve never owned a reloading tray.

Edited February 10 by gregintenn

[jpx2rk]

I still use a LEE single stage, it keeps the process easier for me to keep up with what is going on, I just do everything in batches like mentioned above. I only reload for rifle, no pistol.  I use 50 rd loading blocks, and when doing load development, I space the empty brass out in the loading blocks for the different powder charges I'll be weighing out on the beam scale (I have a list with the various powder charges written down and check them off as I weigh/fill the cases), then I seat the bullets.  After I find the load I'm satisfied with, I use a RCBS LITE to measure out the powder charges but still check every nth charge on the beam scales to monitor the accuracy of the LITE when I'm loading up several hundred rounds for a varmint shoot out west.  I use a small flashlight to look in each case before I seat the bullet to ensure there is powder there.  I've only had one squib since I started re-loading, hope I just didn't signify on myself.  

I prime the cases on the press as ol artie causes too much discomfort to hand prime anymore, and doing it on the press is a bit slower, but much easier on the hands.  I'm retired/retarded, so I've got the time, I put the empty cases into a reloading block neck down until the primer is inserted, then it's turned neck up to tell me it's ready for the powder charge.  I have missed priming a case or two, and it does make a mess when the powder starts coming out of the primer hole, so I usually do a double check to ensure I've primed all the cases.  LOL

[expendable]

When using a progressive press if you get interrupted and need to leave the press for any reason always leave it with the ram up, all cases in their dies. 
 

This way there is no question of where you are in the process. 

[gregintenn]

I will only have one container of powder on my bench at a time. The rest is in a cabinet out of sight and out of reach. I NEVER leave powder in the powder measure. Quick as I’m finished, back in the container and to the cabinet it goes. I just don’t have the memory to do otherwise.

[gregintenn]

Plastic coffee jugs make great stackable storage containers for brass and even loaded ammo!

[gregintenn]

Figure out everything you are gonna need for the next 50 years, double it, and go buy it.

[DeepSouth]

I'm finding some 223 cases that won't fit a shell holder. Going through some old notes I found it. A Lyman TC-38 357-FL die, sizing die with the guts removed used as a bulge buster. Use a pusher from a bullet sizing kit. Lube the cases extra well.

I know you're thinking, 1 case doesn't cost much, scrap it and replace it. A quart or gallon bag or 2 full is a bit different.

[toby1304]

Excellent advice all the way around.

Always check the bullet shape. Different manufacturer, different bullet shape.

For example, a Falcon Coated 9mm 147 will need to be seated deeper than a Blue Bullet 9mm 147.  At 2.5gr of Titegroup and OAL of 1.09 my Power Factor with a Falcon is about the same as a Blue Bullet at 3.1 and OAL of 1.11. The profile of the Falcon is noticeably different and will not chamber over 1.09
Also when chasing the Power Factor requirements in IDPA I’ve found its best to chrono shooting weak hand (support hand) only. This lets me know wether or not the gun will cycle properly when shooting a stage when it requires strong hand or weak hand only shooting.

Keep track of everything, even the loads that don’t cut it. I have numerous loads that I didn’t feel were accurate enough or didn’t cycle properly every time during testing that are lodged with descriptions of their failures.

Edited February 22 by toby1304
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[gregintenn]

I sure wish I had kept better notes through the years. A small notebook for each caliber would be awesome. Unfortunately, my lazy hind end failed to do this, and now my memory isn't what it once was.

I hope this thread might be of some use to new folks starting down the reloading rabbit hole.

Keep em coming, folks!