Reloading Steps for 308

[Rob White]

Ok Im trying to figure out a "decent" reloading method for 308 win using a Dillon 550 and giraud model trimmer. The goal is to make high quality hunting ammo for a bolt action that shoots good out to around 500 yards. I want to be able to load around 100 rds per run. I like to drop each powder charge manually so will not be using charge bar. I been using lake city brass so not sure exactly how that will change things. I would like to develop a method in which I can load 100 rds of ammo in under 2 hrs.

 

I didn't make a run yet but these are my plans so far...I look forward to hearing any input advise or pointing out of mistakes from individuals who are more experienced reloaders. I am new to semi-progressive/progressive reloading but have done some simple loads on single stage setup and workups in the past for my socom.

So far I have :

1. Clean Brass with stainless media in wet tumbler.

2. Dry brass in sun.

3. Lube Brass (rcbs case slick) and run through full length resizing die and then cleaned off with towel to remove some of the lube. (Im not sure how much effort I should put into trying to remove all of the lube completely)[Station 1]

4. Primer pockets cleaned using rcbs primer brush mounted in a Lyman case prep station.

5. (Now im not sure if tumbling in corn cob at this point would affect the sizing on my brass so I will go straight to trimming)

6. Trim entire batch on giraud power trimmer.

7. Prime brass (Im undecided on whether to prime using Dillon 550 or Rcbs Hand Priming tool)

8. Drop powder charge, (weighed manually) using funnel setup on Dillon or hornady powder die [Station 2]

9. Check charge using hornady powder cop die [station 3]

10. Seat bullets to final depth [station 4]

11. Tumble final bullet in corn cob to remove wax [still undecided on whether tumbling in step 5 would be better]

Notes:

-I have considered moving full length resizing to the single stage press but I don't see any benefit of freeing up Station 1.

-I realize I may have to test and play with primer pockets of the Lake city cases to make sure they have no crimp and primers are seating correctly.

-In the future I may consider trying to move or swap station to incorporate an instant dial indicator to measure final length.

 

[Darrell]

You've thought it through very well, but let me offer a couple of thoughts:

I resize my brass before cleaning it. That way the cleaning process removes all the case lube. I'm not saying my way is best, but I prefer it. I do check each piece of brass with my fingers to be sure there is no grit or dirt on the outside of the case.

Consider loading just a few to begin with. If you load 40 or so, 10 each with a particular powder charge, you can get a better idea which powder charge yields the best results in your rifle.

Tumbling in dry media, corn cob, walnut shell, whatever, does not effect the size of the brass. Neither does wet-tumbling.

My experience is that stainless pins offer almost no improvement when cleaning brass. I tried it a few times and never use it now. Perhaps if you have a bunch of nasty brass that you picked up somewhere, but for just normal once-fired brass... no need. And honestly, cleaning once-fired brass really isn't necessary at all, so long as you make sure there's no grit on the cases. I always clean mine because I like my brass shiny and my hands to stay clean, but you don't have to do that.

Good luck!

Edited January 11 by Darrell

[Darrell]

49 minutes ago, Rob White said:

11. Tumble final bullet in corn cob to remove wax [still undecided on whether tumbling in step 5 would be better]

WHOA!!!!!!

I missed this step on my first reading. Personally, I would never, ever tumble a completed round. There are differences of opinion on the subject, but it seems unnecessary and potentially dangerous to me. Some say that tumbling can cause the powder's burn characteristics to change, resulting in a potential over-pressure when fired. I think it's possible that the bullet could move in the neck, which will also cause pressure variations.  I see no reason to risk it.

 

Edited January 12 by Darrell

[slickrick0999]

For what it is worth (not much) here is my process...

Fire round

Collect fired brass

Wipe off with towel (microfiber if you are fancy old t-shirt of you are not)

Deprime with universal deprimer

1st time around I uniform primer pockets sequential times use primer pocket brush

Anneal 

Throw in plastic bag and spray with dillon case lube

Run through full length size die

Wipe off with towel of preference 

Run all pieces through Giraud trimmer

Prime with hand primer watching TV

Drop charges (I use chargemaster) on cabinet next to loading bench.

Seat bullets

This process is what I use for my match rounds.  I have spent time doing other steps but have since come to this as what matters.

Now, I know there are other things people do in addition to this that help but I am not shooting benchrest any longer. 

[deerslayer]

I would either dry the wet tumbled brass in a dehydrator or de-prime before wet tumbling to completely eliminate any moisture in the primer pocket.  Ask me how I know

[derf]

DO NOT tumble a loaded round. You hear tall tales about rounds going off is hard to swallow. However, some powders are coated in several layers that tumbling will undo these coating. This will change the performance of the powder. 

[srszczer]

What about depriming before the stainless tumble? That would help clean out the primer pockets although you might want to hit it with your brush anyways if you want it spotless.

[Rob White]

Ok I should mention the reason I have the wet tumbling process at all is bc Im trying to clean some fairly dirty once fired NATO brass I got for around $300 for 1000 cases and the cases seem better machined than commercial brass. The primer holes are all centered perfectly and a lot cleaner cut on the inside which is why I am interested in converting these into hunting ammo. I got the brass from some online site called (armorally), they were pretty dang dirty (not comparable to loading commercial brass) and I had great results with my wet tumbling with "quality" stainless pins that don't rust from Frankford arsenal a tiny bit of (dawn and lemishine method). And I dried the cases in the 200 degree Louisiana sun that was beaming down this summer for several hours and then stored them in a hot shed for several days before going to the next step. 

I like the idea of depriming before wet tumbling and drying in a dehydrator . I need to try a batch to see how that affects the overall timing of the process. I don't have the money yet to add a good case annealer that I would be happy with and that is why I don't anneal yet. 

I see many don't like the idea of tumbling live rounds, and neither do I, for all the stated reasons and that is why Im fishing for alternatives.

I worry about denting or altering the necks or chamfer if I tumble after resizing and trimming..., but I feel so far the consensus here (and in my mind) is saying its better to tumble for 30 minutes in corncob after full length resizing to remove lube vs tumbling a live round vs leaving the lube on the bullet. I wouldn't suggest this for benchrest shooters or anybody shooting out to 1000 but I think it will work just fine and may be superior to factory for hunting ammo for deer and pig.

So changes are:

UPDATED VERSION FOR DIRTY BRASS:

1. Clean Brass with stainless media in wet tumbler. (Deprime first if decapping die is available)

2. Dry brass in sun or dehydrator.

3. Lube Brass (rcbs case slick) and run through full length resizing die and then cleaned off with towel to remove some of the lube. [Station 1]

4. Tumble wiped cases in corn cob media in vibrating tumbler for 30 minutes.

5. Primer pockets cleaned using rcbs primer brush mounted in a Lyman case prep station. (Checked with go/no gauge and swage if needed)

6. Trim entire batch on giraud power trimmer.

7. Prime brass (Im undecided on whether to prime using Dillon 550 or Rcbs Hand Priming tool)

8. Drop powder charge, (weighed manually) using funnel setup on Dillon or hornady powder die [Station 2]

9. Check charge using hornady powder cop die [station 3]

10. Seat bullets to final depth [station 4]

11. Check bullet with case gauge and overall length with micrometer.

[deerslayer]

How many cases did you dry in the sun?  I was drying wet tumbled brass on a cookie sheet with a fan blowing into the case mouths for a couple hours and figured this would be fine.  I was wrong.  The cases appeared bone dry inside and out, but I started getting an occasional squib, except there was loose powder in the chamber, so not really a squib.  I started dehydrating them and the problem went away.  This was pistol ammo, but the same could probably happen with rifle ammo.  
 

Also, just out of curiosity, why do step 9 if you just manually measured and dropped the powder?

Edited January 12 by deerslayer

[Rob White]

41 minutes ago, deerslayer said:

How many cases did you dry in the sun?  I was drying wet tumbled brass on a cookie sheet with a fan blowing into the case mouths for a couple hours and figured this would be fine.  I was wrong.  The cases appeared bone dry inside and out, but I started getting an occasional squib, except there was loose powder in the chamber, so not really a squib.  I started dehydrating them and the problem went away.  This was pistol ammo, but the same could probably happen with rifle ammo.  
 

Also, just out of curiosity, why do step 9 if you just manually measured and dropped the powder?

you have convinced me to dehydrate:) how long do you suggest. Do you think over night should be fine or longer?

 

I have often wondered about  my powders ability to absorb moisture in the past and how that could possibly affect charge weights and ignition but then I just figured I was "overthinking" as I often do...

 

Step 9 may/may not be needed. Just something that was adopted from pistol loads to prevent double charges but im not sure that's even possible with 308 loads due to case volume restrictions.

Honestly I haven't gotten that far yet.

I have toyed with the idea of eventually trying to work up a ball powder load that meters "correctly" with the charge bar just too produce some bulk target ammo but im still not convinced that will be worth the time invested and start overthinking and questioning my need for bulk target ammo. I guess if I ever feel that me or my friends and family need that much practice then I will pump some out:)

Edited January 12 by Rob White

[Alleycat72]

I always clean before sizing. I also run the brass through the Dillon with only a decapping die in it first. I will clean after all case sizing and prep work is done also. Everything else depends on what I'm loading and what it's for. Hunting, match, semiauto, bolt, supersonic, or subsonic. I'll do this for 20 rounds or 1500 rounds. It all gets done a few weeks ahead of time. They'll get a 30 minute run in the oven at about 150° and then get to hang out with the dehumidifier for at least 2 weeks. That room stays at 45%.

[deerslayer]

23 minutes ago, Rob White said:

you have convinced me to dehydrate:) how long do you suggest. over night should be fine or longer?

 

I have about if my powder can absorb moisture in the past and how that could possibly affect charge weights and ignition but then I just figured I was "overthinking" as I often do...

 

Step 9 may/may not be needed. Just something that was adopted from pistol loads to prevent double charges but im not sure that's even possible with 308 loads due to case volume restrictions.

Honestly I haven't gotten that far yet.

I have toyed with the idea of eventually trying to work up a ball powder load that meters "correctly" with the charge bar just too produce some bulk target ammo but im still not convinced that will be worth the time invested and start overthinking and questioning my need for bulk target ammo. I guess if I ever feel that me or my friends and family need that much practice then I will pump some out:)

An hour or two is plenty for pistol cases.  I wouldn’t think rifle cases would require too much more.  
 

A powder cop is useful for pistol ammo to prevent a double charge or no charge, but it won’t tell you that you are .2 grains low, etc.  No charge shouldn’t be an issue because you just manually charged the case and a double charge will probably spill everywhere.  A powder cop makes sense on a progressive setup, but since you are doing a lot of it manually, I don’t think it’s necessary.  

[ngodwetrust21]

Not sure what you are reloading for, but when I reload the for the 308 I also include taking a bore brush and cleaning inside the neck of the case. This removes any carbon from the neck and provides more consistent tension when the bullet is seated.