Tips for lapping a 1911 slide to frame?

[Paulie771]

I've recently purchased a Springfield Prodigy and everything I've read about them makes it sound like SA sprayed entirely too much Cerakote on the slide/frame. I've read multiple threads where it is highly recommended that the slide and frame are lapped up to a 800 or even 1200 grit compound.  I've never done this before.  I just purchased Brownell's 600/800 lapping compound set to do it myself. Does anyone have any tips for a first timer doing this? Any prep work I should know about? My plan is to simply tear the pistol down to just frame and slide, start w/ the 600, rack the slide while applying pressure in all directions, then when it feels like the 600 is "used up," I'll go to the 800 and do the same then spray it w/ brake cleaner to clean it all off, reassemble/oil, and test fire. Is this a sufficient plan? Thanks!

[peejman]

I've not lapped a 1911, but that's how you lap stuff. I'd clean it up and look with magnification pretty frequently to confirm the progress. 

[Garufa]

Why not just shoot it a bunch first to break it in?

[gregintenn]

That’s how it works. Will it not operate properly as is?

[expendable]

I would not lap it unless it has issues after you’ve shot it at least 500 rounds. 

[gregintenn]

I have a tool with a wood handle and different sized suction cups on each end I’ve used to lap engine valves. You spin it back and forth between your palms. There’s not really a secret to lapping. You’re just removing material in places you can’t readily get a sanding block. You know you’re done when no dull areas are left.

Edited January 7 by gregintenn

[Paulie771]

1 hour ago, Garufa said:

Why not just shoot it a bunch first to break it in?

$40 of lapping compound and the time to rack it while sitting on the couch with the wife watching whatever show she's watching vs. $400 in ammo and the time at the range.

[DJTC45]

You need to oil it up and shoot it about 500rnds. like what was pointed out. Lapping Compund is ok but it only takes a very small amount because if you use to much you'll ruin the slide to frame fit by it becoming way to loose. Ask anyone here who ever owned a Les Baer 1911, those are some of the tightest frame to slide fit guns that there is, ask me how I know. The four I owned were so tight fitting that I could hardly rack the slide, so I lubed the hell out of them and shot about 500-800rnds. down them once that was done they worked great. Just my opinion and thoughts on this, I've owned seven Staccato's and after breaking them in by shooting them a bunch they feel like the slide is on ball bearings.

[expendable]

1 hour ago, Paulie771 said:

$40 of lapping compound and the time to rack it while sitting on the couch with the wife watching whatever show she's watching vs. $400 in ammo and the time at the range.

You act like going to the range and shooting 500 rds is a bad thing. 

[Paulie771]

15 minutes ago, expendable said:

You act like going to the range and shooting 500 rds is a bad thing. 

Hahaha. Oh it’s a great thing. Just expensive anymore and the time is harder and harder to come by. 

[Chucktshoes]

9 minutes ago, Paulie771 said:

Hahaha. Oh it’s a great thing. Just expensive anymore and the time is harder and harder to come by. 

As true, as that may be, a ruined gun is more expensive. You’re a lot better off, breaking it in the old-fashioned way and from there determining if there’s even a need to lap the slide. Material only comes off, it doesn’t go back on. So what gets done cannot be undone.

[gregintenn]

1 minute ago, Chucktshoes said:

As true, as that may be, a ruined gun is more expensive. You’re a lot better off, breaking it in the old-fashioned way and from there determining if there’s even a need to lap the slide. Material only comes off, it doesn’t go back on. So what gets done cannot be undone.

Well, you can always hammer or otherwise pinch the slide to tighten it back up, but the. You’re back to lapping once again.

[Grayfox54]

You're intentionally putting an abrasive compound into a set of sliding surfaces for the purpose of advancing wear.  Odds are that there are only one or two very small tight areas. The lapping compound will affect the entire surface cutting into areas that don't need it.  There's a fine line between just right and too much.

If the gun functions correctly, just shoot it to break it in. 

[deerslayer]

I lapped my Prodigy with oil and 200 rounds.  Slide-to-frame is GTG.  

[ken_mays]

Generally speaking, if the slide will fall all the way back when the recoil spring is out and the muzzle is pointed upwards, it doesn't need any lapping.   I think these have too light of a recoil spring installed, which is why some users are getting failure to return to battery and similar issues. 

Springfield is really irritating with their 9mm guns because they use the titanium firing pin to make them 'drop safe', but this requires a much heavier mainspring to get reliable ignition, which is then addressed by installing a correspondingly light recoil spring in order to get the gun running.  Everyone I know with a Springfield 9mm 1911 who wants to run them in competition generally trashes all the springs, replaces them with a 12 or 14 pound recoil and 19 pound mainspring and buys an EGW steel firing pin.

[BHunted]

Sit and rack the hell out of it. Or if it doesn't loosen up a s bit, order some Flitz and while waiting, use white toothpaste. Rack rack rack.

OR SHOOT IT!

[FTG-05]

I did both with my S&W SW1991SC scandium framed .45: shot it a bunch plus used some Brownells non-embedding 400 or 600 grit compound to eliminate the tight spots on the frame to slide surfaces.  Like someone said above:  Remove the recoil spring, install the slide and it should fall either way simply by gravity.

 

 

 

 

[Wireman]

If you use compound make sure to get it all out or it will continue to lap and ruin your fit. Try cleaning and oiling while firing to get it broken in and lap only as a last resort.