custom build Just 3d printed a frame

[NeXTTime]

Just 3d printed this frame.     Not sure if the video will play. 

It needs a little more cleanup to remove some of the support material that is used to support the model on the printer bed during printing.

So far, it's been a fun project.

[scatman]

What material did you use? A buddy of mine had to experiment with a few before he found one that withstood more than 3k rounds.

[NeXTTime]

I'm using PLA+.  PLA+ on amazon

The designers recommend the "+" version of PLA as it handles the stress better than regular PLA and PETG.

I don't really expect to get more than a few thousand rounds out of it.  

Nothing in this built will have gone thru an FFL.  It's more of a statement about having the right and ability to make a functioning firearm using only a 3d printer and non-4473 controlled parts.

 

 

[scatman]

6 hours ago, NeXTTime said:

I'm using PLA+.  PLA+ on amazon

The designers recommend the "+" version of PLA as it handles the stress better than regular PLA and PETG.

I don't really expect to get more than a few thousand rounds out of it.  

Nothing in this built will have gone thru an FFL.  It's more of a statement about having the right and ability to make a functioning firearm using only a 3d printer and non-4473 controlled parts.

 

 

I'm all for it.

[NeXTTime]

The next 9mm build will probably handle more than a few thousand rounds without an issue.

 

 

 

[Tobashadow]

On 6/24/2022 at 2:58 AM, scatman said:

What material did you use? A buddy of mine had to experiment with a few before he found one that withstood more than 3k rounds.

You forget the part about that if that happens at a push of a button 8-12 hours later there is another frame sitting there to replace it.

And who says you can't make a few spare frames ahead of time...

 

 

[Tobashadow]

Here's one of mine

[Tobashadow]

This one was a fun build also

 

[NeXTTime]

That came out nice.   Building your own gun at home goes back to the roots of this country, it's great that the tradition is being keep alive.

[Erich]

What kind of setup does it take to produce these kinds of results?  Is it kind of a rabbit hole?

Pretty cool gents. 

[NeXTTime]

On 6/29/2022 at 5:24 PM, Erich said:

What kind of setup does it take to produce these kinds of results?  Is it kind of a rabbit hole?

Pretty cool gents. 

You can get in pretty cheap.

I've been recommending an Ender 3 V2 if you willing to put in a little time to calibrate it before printing frames.

If you want something ready to go out of the box, I have suggested getting a Prusa as it needs almost no tuning to start printing lowers.  Yes, it's more money up front but if your time is worth money, it's a reliable way to start in the hobby.

It's a bit of a drive but if you stop by a Microcenter, you can pick one up for $100 when they have their pickup only specials.  My friend got one of these for $99.

I've helped a few people get setup and would be happy to answer any questions from the folks here.

[NeXTTime]

Whoops.  Forgot the link to Microcenter.  https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/specialoffer3dprinter.aspx

It's not a bad drive from my area of TN.

[Erich]

22 hours ago, NeXTTime said:

Whoops.  Forgot the link to Microcenter.  https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/specialoffer3dprinter.aspx

It's not a bad drive from my area of TN.

Thanks for sharing. I started looking at them after viewing the Ender, man you can get lost quick!  Commenting in the middle that can do other materials seems like a good idea, but so many. 

Can you use other materials with the Ender if you switch to a metal extruder? (one review mentioned the plastic one cracked)

[NeXTTime]

An all metal hot end is needed for printing things like carbon fiber filament.  Switching to a stainless steel nozzle instead of the default brass nozzle is required if you are going to use filaments that contain abrasive particles.

But just talking about printing lowers, as long as you use PLA+ or PLA Pro you will be fine with the default hot end or an all metal hot end if you upgrade.

https://amzn.to/3IAwVpT

^^^ This is normally what I use for lowers but there are other options.

A stock Ender with PLA+ or PLA PRO works right out of the box with no mods needed.

 

 

 

Edited July 14, 2022 by NeXTTime

[Erich]

Appreciate the feedback. The store in Murietta is only an hour and a half away. I'd been looking at the differences and the V2 sounds like a great starter, too bad that coupon is for the older version. Its funny how its easy to start seeing the difference and being convinced to spin  that $100 to $200 buy in up to a $500.  The S1 seemed like a great lower cost starter but the reviews on the autoleveling were not great and most were doing it manually. Thanks, I'll keep my eye out for a V2 on sale.

[THA KERNALLL]

Do people only 3D print Glock frames? I have a Canik, and have found nothing yet

[Fencersms]

How much money in materials do you suspect is costs you to make your PCC lowers?

[NeXTTime]

On 10/1/2022 at 7:13 PM, THA KERNALLL said:

Do people only 3D print Glock frames? I have a Canik, and have found nothing yet

 

I haven't seen a Canik yet.

I've seen files for Sig P320, Stribog, CENTME, FNS, Derringer, Ruger and 1911 hybrids.

 

Try https://enblocpress.com/developer-index/

Lots of projects listed here.

[THA KERNALLL]

Cool beans

[NeXTTime]

On 10/1/2022 at 9:36 PM, Fencersms said:

How much money in materials do you suspect is costs you to make your PCC lowers?

The Mac 11 upper was about $150, the lower parts were standard AR15 trigger, mag release, etc.

 

This 37mm signaling device is my latest project.