P226 Firing Pin Removal, help, please?

[scatman]

Okay, so I know how to break down this pistol to the bare bones, this isn't the first p226 I've broken down, but I've run into a problem, I'm the third owner, and the original, not the owner prior to me, I believe had it custom finished, anyways, the drift pin that holds the firing pin is apparently coated finish, and I'm having a rough time getting this to tap out, any ideas on how to solve this without damaging the slide or destroying the pin itself? Thanks guys! 

Edited June 20, 2022 by scatman

[TGO David]

You're probably going to need a short punch to make it work and you may still end up buggering the drift pin itself.

https://amzn.to/3OnB1mU

 

[peejman]

Depending on what it's coated with, heating the surrounding area will help loosen it up. 

[scatman]

43 minutes ago, TGO David said:

You're probably going to need a short punch to make it work and you may still end up buggering the drift pin itself.

https://amzn.to/3OnB1mU

 

Ah, see, these would certainly help tremendously, because my punches keep slipping off because they're normal length.

[scatman]

29 minutes ago, peejman said:

Depending on what it's coated with, heating the surrounding area will help loosen it up. 

See, the reason I'm not trying to do this is I'm afraid of ruining the finish that's currently on the slide surrounding the pin, how do you suggest I go about heating the pin?

[derf]

I am a Sig nut and have several 226 pistols. I’ve carried the same 220 for over 30 years. Could I ask why you are removing the firing pin? Old dogs need to  learn something new every day. 

[scatman]

4 minutes ago, derf said:

I am a Sig nut and have several 226 pistols. I’ve carried the same 220 for over 30 years. Could I ask why you are removing the firing pin? Old dogs need to  learn something new every day. 

A simple breakdown and cleaning of all internals isnt a bad idea every 1k rds, helps the longevity of parts. I can see through the gap in the "safety pin," (take slide from frame, looking at the inside of the slide where the firing pin is help, there is another pin that has a spring behind it, believe this pin is what goes into place when you're engaging the decocker to keep the firing pin from moving forward to the primer.) that theres a little rust on the firing pin itself. I also just acquired this 226 yesterday, and first thing I do when I gain ownership of any firearm is break it all down, learn the inner workings of every gun, and how to put them back together. 

[derf]

I was wondering if you had a breakage. I’m all about clean firearms and my ultrasonic goes all the time. I’m 65 and my granddad thought me that a man that won’t clean his guns won’t wipe his butt. He had advise on every subject. Born in 1901 he was a the wisest man I’ve ever known. 

[scatman]

25 minutes ago, derf said:

I was wondering if you had a breakage. I’m all about clean firearms and my ultrasonic goes all the time. I’m 65 and my granddad thought me that a man that won’t clean his guns won’t wipe his butt. He had advise on every subject. Born in 1901 he was a the wisest man I’ve ever known. 

Ah, no, nothing is broken, these things are practically T-90s. 

[peejman]

5 hours ago, scatman said:

See, the reason I'm not trying to do this is I'm afraid of ruining the finish that's currently on the slide surrounding the pin, how do you suggest I go about heating the pin?

What's it finished with?

[scatman]

 

8 minutes ago, peejman said:

What's it finished with?

I have no idea, its Olive Drab color, I would like to say cerakoting, with how some of the wear looks. I don't really know, who ever did it did a poor job, didn't remove sights, so theres spots where the sights dont sit flush to metal on the top of slide, and you can see the original black finish, as well as the bases of the sights are painted, this pin is coated, and not going anywhere. Even with the trick of keeping the firing pin in a slightly forward position while trying to tap it hasn't gotten it. I went with your method of trying to heat it, two different ways, first being cautious, heated a piece of metal to 600 degrees, and then held it to the pin until the pin reached 130 degrees, both sides of the pin. That didnt seem to work, so, I have a precision torch that I use for soldering computer parts, heated the pin to about 100 degrees, again trying to be cautious and not damage the slide, attempted to tap this lil sucker out, and no luck, so I'm saying screw it, I've got two other 226s at my dad's, one of which, the same pin is literally seized in place because it was in a vehicle fire, pistol still functions without any issues, so I know these things are built like tanks. 

[scatman]

Also, after some videos and pictures, I've determined that this drift pin isnt the original pin either.

[peejman]

17 hours ago, scatman said:

 

I have no idea, its Olive Drab color, I would like to say cerakoting, with how some of the wear looks. I don't really know, who ever did it did a poor job, didn't remove sights, so theres spots where the sights dont sit flush to metal on the top of slide, and you can see the original black finish, as well as the bases of the sights are painted, this pin is coated, and not going anywhere. Even with the trick of keeping the firing pin in a slightly forward position while trying to tap it hasn't gotten it. I went with your method of trying to heat it, two different ways, first being cautious, heated a piece of metal to 600 degrees, and then held it to the pin until the pin reached 130 degrees, both sides of the pin. That didnt seem to work, so, I have a precision torch that I use for soldering computer parts, heated the pin to about 100 degrees, again trying to be cautious and not damage the slide, attempted to tap this lil sucker out, and no luck, so I'm saying screw it, I've got two other 226s at my dad's, one of which, the same pin is literally seized in place because it was in a vehicle fire, pistol still functions without any issues, so I know these things are built like tanks. 

You want to heat the surrounding area but not the pin. Heat the hole so it gets bigger and loosens up on the pin. 

If its cerakote, you should be able to get it really hot, upwards of 1000 deg F.  More than enough to get the pin out.  Put a little penetrating oil on it, let that soak for 30 mins, then heat it up until the oil starts smoking, then try to knock the pin out while it's hot. It may take a couple attempts. 

Since you've determined this isn't the correct pin, is it possible its tapered and will only come out 1 way?

[scatman]

55 minutes ago, peejman said:

 

Since you've determined this isn't the correct pin, is it possible its tapered and will only come out 1 way?

Pin is supposed to come out by tapping it from the right side out the left. I will give your heating method a try.

[Erich]

If you intend to reuse the pin (Sig looks at these as one time use), a punch isn’t the best way to go. It works with basing amount of deformation of the pin.

This is what I use for Sig FP pins. Greatly reduces the chance of buggering up the slide and won’t deform the ends, making easier to drive. Generally can’t tell the pin was removed/replaced. 

If you succeed with the punch, I’d still recommend considering an arbor press. You won’t want to use a hammer for this job ever again. great for controlled staking or hammer jobs that carry higher risk of damage.