What tools do I all need for putting together a ar 15?

[starncannon]

Also , do y’all know if .05 bore size makes a difference? So 9mm is .355 and a muzzle brake I looks at is .350 . I wonder if that will work?

[Snaveba]

Tool wise, a good set of punches with brass/plastic headed mallet, Allen wrenches,  small screw drivers, a barrel wrench (many will handle most of the nuts you will encounter, a good bench vice and something to hold the upper and lower stable while you tighten things. I like the BEV block by Magpul.
 

The Giessele reaction rod is a good one as well. The BEV block will hold either the upper or the lower depending upon how you place it in the vice. You do need a BCG to make the BEV block work with the upper. 
 

I’m not sure how the 0.05” difference will effect things. But I would just buy a muzzle device designed for a 9mm barrel. Better safe than sorry. 

[E4 No More]

If you aren't going to make more than one AR, might I suggest that you see if another member who has the tools and experience will meet with you to assemble your rifle.

[Capbyrd]

obsidian arms has AR specific punch sets that I would recommend. 

DO NOT use the Geisselle reaction rod.   Instead, get a Midwest Industries Upper Reciever Rod.  Midwest also has a good punch block you can use. 

You really didn't tell us if you are assembling a lower or upper.   Or both?

[Snaveba]

I forgot about a punch block. Always good to have. 

 I have never used the Reaction rod. What about them is bad?
 

I like that the BEV Block will hold the upper or the lower. 

[Capbyrd]

45 minutes ago, Snaveba said:

I forgot about a punch block. Always good to have. 

 I have never used the Reaction rod. What about them is bad?
 

I like that the BEV Block will hold the upper or the lower. 

 

The Geiselle Reaction Rod is fine if you are working on the receiver itself or the rail or a muzzle device.  But if you are torquing on a barrel nut, it has nothing to hold the receiver in place.  So it is possible and does happen that you will break a receiver at the locating pin hole. 

The MURR (midwest upper receiver rod) has a sail on top of it that keeps the receiver from being able to turn.  Additionally, it can ensure that the barrel extension is not clocked incorrectly. 

The MURR is a better tool for less money. 

Bev blocks are okay but there are better tools out there.  Remember, if it does a bunch of jobs, it's probably not the BEST tool for any of them. 

[starncannon]

Thank you to all!!

[Guest Xoom219]

On 2/24/2022 at 12:23 PM, Snaveba said:

I forgot about a punch block. Always good to have. 

 I have never used the Reaction rod. What about them is bad?
 

I like that the BEV Block will hold the upper or the lower. 

A roll of electrical tape works just as well for 1/10 the cost.  

[45guy]

Also a plastic bag to catch way ward springs. 

[peejman]

16 hours ago, 45guy said:

Also a plastic bag to catch way ward springs. 

Very much this. You're guaranteed to launch a detent into the netherworld at least once. A razor blade is handy for holding them in place. 

[TGO David]

16 hours ago, 45guy said:

Also a plastic bag to catch way ward springs. 

 

AR15 PIVOT PIN TOOL — REAL AVID® - Worth its weight in gold.

 

[Capbyrd]

12 hours ago, TGO David said:

 

AR15 PIVOT PIN TOOL — REAL AVID® - Worth its weight in gold.

 

I have one and have never opened it.   I 3D printed a Clevis pin type tool and use it.  

[OldIronFan]

On 2/24/2022 at 7:47 AM, starncannon said:

Also , do y’all know if .05 bore size makes a difference? So 9mm is .355 and a muzzle brake I looks at is .350 . I wonder if that will work?

Yes it absolutely makes a difference. Do Not use that muzzle brake on a 9mm if it truly has a .350 I.D. 
Your muzzle brake diameter needs to be .020-.030 over the bullet diameter. That would put you at .375 to .385 I.D. 
There are a few out there that run a little tighter to the bore diameter (~.015 clearance) but you need to make sure you are using quality components regardless. I have seen some really horrible muzzle threading on cheap barrels before. Total concentricity and perpendicularity of ~.001 -.002  is required especially if you ever hope to mount a suppressor to the weapon. 

[starncannon]

6 hours ago, OldIronFan said:

Yes it absolutely makes a difference. Do Not use that muzzle brake on a 9mm if it truly has a .350 I.D. 
Your muzzle brake diameter needs to be .020-.030 over the bullet diameter. That would put you at .375 to .385 I.D. 
There are a few out there that run a little tighter to the bore diameter (~.015 clearance) but you need to make sure you are using quality components regardless. I have seen some really horrible muzzle threading on cheap barrels before. Total concentricity and perpendicularity of ~.001 -.002  is required especially if you ever hope to mount a suppressor to the weapon. 

Thank you sir

[WillyK]

On 4/3/2022 at 12:22 PM, peejman said:

Very much this. You're guaranteed to launch a detent into the netherworld at least once. A razor blade is handy for holding them in place. 

A utility knife blade works pretty good too.

[ballenbrowning]

The reaction rod is probably the tool that I can't live without.

[SkyFive]

I'm relatively new at this myself, I've assembled two rifles so far. Must haves; Midwest Industries upper receiver rod (MI-URR), a roll pin tool kit (Wheeler Delta Series), an armorers wrench (PSA or Magpul). This will get you started.

I also bought action blocks, a bench block and a handguard removal tool. I'm still looking at purchasing barrel blocks for installing/removing muzzle devices. The Wheeler Delta Series roll pin kit came with trigger guard roll pin install tool, this is highly recommended as tapping the roll pin in with a hammer you run the risk of breaking the receiver. 

 

[Smith]

A towel! Put it over your head when installing detent pins and springs. Even with a detent install tool!

As to reaction rods, I use the MI:

 https://www.arbuildjunkie.com/ar-15-reaction-rods-pros-and-cons-with-sotar/

I also use my Real Avid Master Bench block a lot.