Barrel Change on Ruger American

[maroonandwhite]

I ran across a great deal on a 6.5 Creedmor barrel from Patriot Valley Arms and will be changing my Ruger American over from .308.

I am going to need to buy at minimum, a barrel nut wrench. As far as action vices and headspace gauges, should I pony up and buy them or can I get by using brass?

I doubt I do a barrel swap again or anytime soon so I’d like to save that money if I can. 
 

I’ll probably just use a pipe wrench to remove the factory barrel nut since it’s smooth and won’t be reusing it. 
 

Any tips or advice on this job?

[jpx2rk]

I used a barrel vise, not a action vise when I swapped out  the OEM barrel on my RAR and ordered a nut wrench from the barrel maker.  Used a pipe wrench on the smooth oem nut.  No real problems.  

I have the Wheeler barrel vise, works good,  about $60 or so.

Pony up and buy the go and no go gages if this is your first barrel swap.  You'll feel much better when it comes time to pull the trigger that first time on your new creation.  

[maroonandwhite]

30 minutes ago, jpx2rk said:

I used a barrel vise, not a action vise when I swapped out  the OEM barrel on my RAR and ordered a nut wrench from the barrel maker.  Used a pipe wrench on the smooth oem nut.  No real problems.  

I have the Wheeler barrel vise, works good,  about $60 or so.

Pony up and buy the go and no go gages if this is your first barrel swap.  You'll feel much better when it comes time to pull the trigger that first time on your new creation.  

So I got the factory barrel off just using a standard vice and padding. No damage to the receiver but I wouldn’t want to look at the barrel of used again lol. I didn’t plan to use it again anyways but would have been nice to save it. Oh well live and learn. 
 

From this experience, I don’t think I’ll need anything other than a proper barrel nut wrench and the gauges. I’ll take the advice and buy them. 
 

Wish I could give a picture but I found a Patriot Valley 26” M24 contour barrel in stainless for $349 which seemed like a great deal. I’m not sure yet if their nuts are similar to a savage nut or just use wrench flats. 
 

By the time I buy the barrel and a Timney and including the magpul stock I already have I’ll have way too much in a RAR but I should have a sweet shooter. 

Edited November 22, 2021 by maroonandwhite

[jpx2rk]

Yeah, you'll have some $$ in a RAR, it's possible to just buy  one in the caliber you want for less $$, but there's not as much fun in that is there.  My RAR would not shoot well (consistently) so I decided to swap barrels.  

Call PV and ask them what their barrel nut requires for proper install and torque.  Savage wrenches are pretty cheap, and using the proper tools is better than messing up the nut, or not getting it torqued properly.  You'll need a torque wrench as well

I did not swap triggers, but did swap out the spring in the factory trigger for only $10-20.  It's better, but not much, so...

I do get compliments on my 6x45 RAR, I put it a Boyds AT-1 stock, bedded, etc., so it a shooter now, sub MOA at 200 so it was a success to me.  LOL

[maroonandwhite]

5 minutes ago, jpx2rk said:

Yeah, you'll have some $$ in a RAR, it's possible to just buy  one in the caliber you want for less $$, but there's not as much fun in that is there.  My RAR would not shoot well (consistently) so I decided to swap barrels.  

Call PV and ask them what their barrel nut requires for proper install and torque.  Savage wrenches are pretty cheap, and using the proper tools is better than messing up the nut, or not getting it torqued properly.  You'll need a torque wrench as well

I did not swap triggers, but did swap out the spring in the factory trigger for only $10-20.  It's better, but not much, so...

I do get compliments on my 6x45 RAR, I put it a Boyds AT-1 stock, bedded, etc., so it a shooter now, sub MOA at 200 so it was a success to me.  LOL

Nice! As long as I like it and it shoots well, it’s just money. I think the RAR actions are great honestly albeit not as polished as some but a good entry into the custom build world. Hopefully not a gateway drug though. 

[maroonandwhite]

28 minutes ago, jpx2rk said:

Yeah, you'll have some $$ in a RAR, it's possible to just buy  one in the caliber you want for less $$, but there's not as much fun in that is there.  My RAR would not shoot well (consistently) so I decided to swap barrels.  

Call PV and ask them what their barrel nut requires for proper install and torque.  Savage wrenches are pretty cheap, and using the proper tools is better than messing up the nut, or not getting it torqued properly.  You'll need a torque wrench as well

I did not swap triggers, but did swap out the spring in the factory trigger for only $10-20.  It's better, but not much, so...

I do get compliments on my 6x45 RAR, I put it a Boyds AT-1 stock, bedded, etc., so it a shooter now, sub MOA at 200 so it was a success to me.  LOL

Well PVA just told me all I would need for the barrel nut is a crescent wrench. Good excuse to buy a set of crows feet. That’s something I will reuse. 

[jpx2rk]

The only "issue" I have with the RAR action is the ejection port is on the smaller side, and if a shell doesn't move along the right path, it can be a PITA to dig it out.  I've got small hands, so my fingers will fit inside the ejection port, but its still a PITA.  

[Capbyrd]

I have a barrel vise but I probably don't have a bushing that will fit your barrel.  I also have a torque wrench.   I'd be happy to host your work except for those missing tools.  Need bushing, barrel nut wrench and gauges.  I'll have the gauges one day because I use HS gauges but I buy the barrel bushings as needed. 

[maroonandwhite]

4 minutes ago, Capbyrd said:

I have a barrel vise but I probably don't have a bushing that will fit your barrel.  I also have a torque wrench.   I'd be happy to host your work except for those missing tools.  Need bushing, barrel nut wrench and gauges.  I'll have the gauges one day because I use HS gauges but I buy the barrel bushings as needed. 

Thanks for the offer!

I THINK I’m going to be able to pull it off. I have gauges on the way and should only need to buy the proper wrench from lowes. Already have a torque wrench. I’m assuming my method of viseing the receiver should work fine given the amount of force it took to get the old barrel off.  If for some reason it doesn’t, I may take you up on that. 
 

This project is quickly adding up but I should have a pretty sweet semi long range setup once done. Found a good deal on a nice scope, which leads to new rings, to new 20 MOA base.

[Capbyrd]

1 minute ago, maroonandwhite said:

Thanks for the offer!

I THINK I’m going to be able to pull it off. I have gauges on the way and should only need to buy the proper wrench from lowes. Already have a torque wrench. I’m assuming my method of viseing the receiver should work fine given the amount of force it took to get the old barrel off.  If for some reason it doesn’t, I may take you up on that. 
 

This project is quickly adding up but I should have a pretty sweet semi long range setup once done. Found a good deal on a nice scope, which leads to new rings, to new 20 MOA base.

Just let me know.  Bushings aren't expensive and I can have them in two days.  Good luck with your build. 

 

[OldIronFan]

In the future you might find someone to loan you the gauges if you are doing a one off project like this. I have Go, No Go, and Field gauges for 6.5 but am over in Middle TN. 
If you cant find anyone to loan them to you you can always rent them. A bit cheaper than buying them outright. 

I have been leaning toward doing a similar project with the Savage Axis line since I don't buy Ruger.
 

Edited November 29, 2021 by OldIronFan

[maroonandwhite]

23 minutes ago, OldIronFan said:

In the future you might find someone to loan you the gauges if you are doing a one off project like this. I have Go, No Go, and Field gauges for 6.5 but am over in Middle TN. 
If you cant find anyone to load them to you you can always rent them. A bit cheaper than buying them outright. 

I have been leaning toward doing a similar project with the Savage Axis line since I don't buy Ruger.
 

Yeah that would have definitely been cheaper. I guess I can be that guy for someone now! Established members only of course.  

[maroonandwhite]

I’m now anxious to see if these scope rings are going to allow my scope to fit on the new barrel. They fit on the old profile but it’s gonna be tight on the m24 profile. I bought the Talley one piece lightweight mounts in low but if they don’t fit I’ll probably go ahead and buy some nicer rings and use the stock pic rail. 
 

I had plans to get a 20 moa base and seekins rings but they are backordered. 

My barrel is currently sitting in Memphis waiting to be sorted by the USPS. Oh joy. 

Edited November 29, 2021 by maroonandwhite

[jpx2rk]

Good luck with it all, and post up some pics when you can.  

[maroonandwhite]

Got it mostly put together. Waiting to get the proper wrench so I can torque the barrel but got the headspace set correctly.  Only issue I ran into was on the muzzle device / qd for my suppressor. The barrel is thick enough that the flash hider wont clear the shoulder. You can see how much thread I would have if I just bottom it out against the shoulder. This would also leave the flash hider threads exposed internally. Would this be cause for concern?

[Capbyrd]

Quote

The barrel is thick enough that the flash hider wont clear the shoulder. You can see how much thread I would have if I just bottom it out against the shoulder.

I'm having a hard time understanding what you are getting at here.   I see the pictures but don't understand the words accompanying them.  Are you saying that the barrel threads are too long?  Why did you stop threading it on if it threads on all the way (the second photo)?  

 

[Handsome Rob]

8 minutes ago, Capbyrd said:

I'm having a hard time understanding what you are getting at here.   I see the pictures but don't understand the words accompanying them.  Are you saying that the barrel threads are too long?  Why did you stop threading it on if it threads on all the way (the second photo)?  

 

Yup, I'm as confused as you. It looks like a perfect fit in the third pic. 

[maroonandwhite]

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Edited November 30, 2021 by maroonandwhite

[maroonandwhite]

16 minutes ago, Capbyrd said:

I'm having a hard time understanding what you are getting at here.   I see the pictures but don't understand the words accompanying them.  Are you saying that the barrel threads are too long?  Why did you stop threading it on if it threads on all the way (the second photo)?  

 

Basically in the picture showing the threads, it is just started on the threads. One concern is that I won’t have many threads engaged. The other concern is that on the flip side of that those threads will be exposed inside of the flash hider. 

[Handsome Rob]

Ohhhhh, I get it. 

There's a recess inside the flash hider, before it engages the barrel threads. So you're actually only getting 3 or 4 turns before you run out of barrel thread. Gotcha.

I'm not au-fait with the pressures created by a suppressor, so I cannot comment on whether or not that would be adequate. My thought would be to find a guy with a lathe (or a hacksaw & a steady hand) & cut the hex-nut off your muzzle device. Cheaper, quicker & simpler than turning down & rethreading the barrel. Is there an alternative QD attachment available for your suppressor? 

[maroonandwhite]

1 minute ago, Handsome Rob said:

Ohhhhh, I get it. 

There's a recess inside the flash hider, before it engages the barrel threads. So you're actually only getting 3 or 4 turns before you run out of barrel thread. Gotcha.

I'm not au-fait with the pressures created by a suppressor, so I cannot comment on whether or not that would be adequate. My thought would be to find a guy with a lathe (or a hacksaw & a steady hand) & cut the hex-nut off your muzzle device. Cheaper, quicker & simpler than turning down & rethreading the barrel. Is there an alternative QD attachment available for your suppressor? 

I wish! This AAC 51t adapter is like a hounds tooth.  And $150+ if you can find them. I’ve seriously considered selling both of the flash hiders I have and using the proceeds to fund a conversion to direct thread.

[Handsome Rob]

Nobody sells a simple thread adapter? 

Sorry for my ignorance, I'm not familiar with suppressor mounting! 

[maroonandwhite]

7 minutes ago, Handsome Rob said:

Nobody sells a simple thread adapter? 

Sorry for my ignorance, I'm not familiar with suppressor mounting! 

Not to my knowledge. I’ve seen many online that have it converted to direct thread or to another more common style of QD.  I think AAC moved to a 80 tooth design or something like that.  They just stop making these.

[OldIronFan]

Ughh... How may turns are you getting from initial engagement to seated on the shoulder?

Just based off you pictures and description I would want more thread engagement knowing how sensitive suppressors are to concentric alignment. 

If you have the option I would be turning a bit more thread relief and squaring that shoulder to the bore. 
If you don't have that option I would look at facing the back of the adapter but you are going to have to hold that nearly perfectly perpendicular to the internal threads of the adapter AND the external thread of the suppressor mounting datum. That is going to be a pain. 

I would seriously consider a different adapter and mounting configuration if you have the ability to shift directions at this point. 

[maroonandwhite]

6 minutes ago, OldIronFan said:

Ughh... How may turns are you getting from initial engagement to seated on the shoulder?

Just based off you pictures and description I would want more thread engagement knowing how sensitive suppressors are to concentric alignment. 

If you have the option I would be turning a bit more thread relief and squaring that shoulder to the bore. 
If you don't have that option I would look at facing the back of the adapter but you are going to have to hold that nearly perfectly perpendicular to the internal threads of the adapter AND the external thread of the suppressor mounting datum. That is going to be a pain. 

I would seriously consider a different adapter and mounting configuration if you have the ability to shift directions at this point. 

I think the suppressor was always going to be somewhat of a bonus on this gun anyways. With 26” of heavy on the end plus another 9” , it’s just not too practical. I may just put the cap on it and call it a day.  I don’t feel like having to deal with poi shift anyways.

Certainly looks better to my eyes without a flash hider.