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Need help with some door hardware


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I'm hoping y'all can point me in the right direction on this. I recently picked up and installed some nice, solid, fire rated doors. They were already cut for the knob and deadbolt, but the edge of the door that the latch bolt protrudes through is recessed back past the knob and deadbolt holes, I guess to allow for some commercial hardware. I'm looking for a plate that fits the edge of the door, that the deadbolt bolt and the latch attach to. I've tried Lowes and Home Depot, along with the local hardware store, and can't find anything. Does anyone know where I can find this piece, to solidly mount the latch hardware?

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Thanks!

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What you've got is a door that was machined for a mortise style lock. I'm not aware of any hardware that will convert this to what youhave.

Fire rated doors won't really do you any good unless you have a rated wall assembly and rated frame do go with them. Just go with a non-rated solid core door if you want security. Non-rated is cheaper for the same door. With fire rated you're only paying for the UL rating. No gain over a standard solid core door.

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Guest RISC777

Look for the commercial plate that would have been installed with the door.

If the openings for the latch and dead bolt don't match ... dremel or roto to fit.

Just $0.02 worth.

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I'd originally planned on using a standard, non- rated door designed for 'normal' latch assemblies, but I found these fire rated doors for free. :D

I've been hunting the commercial plate that would've been installed on the door, but I didn't realize it was called a mortise style. I'll try to find some, but if nothing else I'll make a plate out of some scrap metal.

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Judging by the deadbolt, I'd guess that's an external door. With that big gap there where the old lock went, it looks a little flimsy. I'd be worried someone could kick that door in. I might try to cut some plywood and fit it into the gap and epoxy it in. Then redrill the lock holes. It would also give you something to screw the catch into.

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It's an external door on my shop. I hadn't thought about filling the space, but that's a good idea. I may still try to find a plate to go over the edge, but I'll fill it too. The external hinges are a liability, but I'm planning to tack weld the pins on the frame side of the hinge.

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Use a 2x4 or 2x2 cut down to fill the space. Lowes sells a gold plated cover that will go over the whole end of the door. It will go over the dead bolt hole and handle on both sides. It is to keep the door together when someone tries to kick it in. Just be creative!

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It's an external door on my shop. I hadn't thought about filling the space, but that's a good idea. I may still try to find a plate to go over the edge, but I'll fill it too. The external hinges are a liability, but I'm planning to tack weld the pins on the frame side of the hinge.

use what is called a "Non-removeable Pin" hinge. This is a standard hinge with a hex type screw to lock the hinge pin in place to keep someone from prying it out. There is a company called "Don Jo" which makes such a critter you might be looking for. It is a plate that wraps the door with cutouts in it, thus hiding the gaps shown on the picture. I'll try to remember to scan a pix for you, it nice looking, not very expensive, i used a bunch of them on a dorm in athens, tn to convert mortise cutouts to standard cylinder locks. get me the hinge size (probably 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" since its commercial fire door) and i'll also look to see if i have any surplus hinges. we recommend all three to be nrp, you won't find those at lowes, hd....doors & hardware-----this is how i roll....

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