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New (< 500 rds) Ruger 10/22 jamming problems


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I'm still saying... It's probably the extractor.

Ruger is good about addressing problems, I'm sure they'll sort it out.

Oh, I'm sure it's the extractor. I just don't see paying a local smith for repair when I can get it done for free under warranty. :D

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Guest Hyaloid

Make sur eyou ask to be reimbursed for shipping, I had to send my P345 back, and they did for me upon my request with no hassle!

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  • 8 months later...
Guest EasilyObsessed

You can fix the problem for about $20. Will probably be cheaper then sending it back to Ruger?

First, pick up a recoil buffer tube. This will slow down the action just a bit giving the casing a bit more time to escape.

Second, pick up a VQ Extractor. Install is pretty simple, if you have any trouble I would be happy to help.

Links for both:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=447629&t=11082005

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=363360&t=11082005

P.S. While you are at it, you might as well go ahead and buy a bull barrel, new stock, new trigger group, and polish the internals :up:

Edit: lol, Didnt realize how old this post was. Oh well, same stuff applies.

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  • Administrator
Did you ever get the problem sorted out?

Haven't messed with it but will soon.

You can fix the problem for about $20. Will probably be cheaper then sending it back to Ruger?

First, pick up a recoil buffer tube. This will slow down the action just a bit giving the casing a bit more time to escape.

Second, pick up a VQ Extractor. Install is pretty simple, if you have any trouble I would be happy to help.

Links for both:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=447629&t=11082005

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=363360&t=11082005

P.S. While you are at it, you might as well go ahead and buy a bull barrel, new stock, new trigger group, and polish the internals :)

Edit: lol, Didnt realize how old this post was. Oh well, same stuff applies.

Actually that info will be very helpful. I plan on doing the extractor and buffer tube soon and will work on it over the holidays. :panic:

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Guest EasilyObsessed

Now that I think about it.... If you get bored and want to play gunsmith, I think I still have my stock trigger group laying around if you want to try doing a trigger job yourself. I think I also have a extended mag release in my safe somewhere that I am not using anymore.

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  • 6 months later...
  • Administrator

Reviving a thread from the boneyard...

Last week I got around to installing the Volquartsen extractor and extra-power extractor spring, as well as a polymer buffer pin. These two things and a thorough cleaning of the rifle while I had it apart produced a 10/22 that runs like a sewing machine.

No more jamming problems. Spent casings made a nice neat little pile on the ground next to me. Lots of fun, cheap, accurate shooting. :leaving:

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Like stated earlier go to WWW.RIMFIRECENTRAL.COM and check out the Ruger 10/22 section. They sometimes have personality problems there but very good info.

There are many things to do if you do not ship it back to Ruger or later even if you do. Some of the best is to tune the mag, polish the recoil spring guide rods and chamfer the bottom rear of the bolt. Also check that the barrel is properly positioned in the receiver and not turned slightly. Tuning the extractor can also help.

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  • Administrator

Gents, I appreciate the replies. If you'll refer to post #34 you'll see that a new extractor resolved the problem that I was having. :D

Already on order for the rifle are an extended magazine release, hex retaining screw, scope mounting plate and a few other odds and ends. Next month I'll probably order a threaded 16" barrel so that I can share a suppressor between this and my SBR AR15 project, and a nylon coated polymer stock.

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hex retaining screw, scope mounting plate and a few other odds and ends.

Here is a hint for that hex screw...

Make sure you notch or otherwise put a mark on it so that you will be able to tighten it to the same location every time...otherwise you will throw off POA. It is easy to do on a slotted screw, but it is lost in the symmetry of the hex head unless you mark it somehow.

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