Husqvarna Zero Turn HELP!!!!

[E4 No More]

I have a Husqvarna MZ52 zero turn mower that I bought a couple of years ago. While mowing my field the mower just suddenly slowed down and stopped. When I try to re-start the mower it clicks and you can hear a sound like a capacitor charging but it won't turn over the engine. I called the service department of SLE Power Equipment where I bought it and spoke to someone who sounded pretty disinterested but told me to check the fuses. I checked the two blade fuses indicated in the manual and they both looked normal. Husqvarna's support basically consists of "Contact and authorized repair station" when searching their site.

Anybody familiar with these mowers that can give some good advice? 

[Guest]

Is the click once per key turn, i.e. the starter solenoid engaging to put the starter in path with the engine flywheel?  Or, repeated clicks?

Can you describe the "capacitor charging" sound?  Capacitor wouldn't normally make a noise, so curious what that is.

Was the mower really bogged down in very heavy grass when it quit, or was this out of the blue?

BTW as far as re-starting, are the blades switched off?  And I'm sure you checked it but you have fuel?

Edited July 21, 2019 by Guest

[DaveTN]

The obvious first; fuel, air, spark. If it was running fine, simply shut off, and won’t try to start, but has a fully charged battery; it sounds like an electrical safety has kicked in. something could have rattled loose, like maybe the safety that shuts the mower off if you raise up from the seat.

How it shut off could be a clue. Did it shut off like you tuned the key off, or did it slow, stutter and die?

 

[Guest]

I'd confirm the battery was charging.  Is it at 12-13v?

Do you get 12v to the starter when the key is on?  If NOT, then either an issue with wirinf, ignition, etc, OR a switch or losse issue aa Dave pointed out.

If you DO get 12v at the starter but it won't turn over, that could be an issue but shouldn't be a reason it stopped.  So i bet starters ok.  But going down this path will help get to whatever electrical issue you may have.  Could be in the engine magneto or ground as well. 

[E4 No More]

33 minutes ago, BlessTheUSA said:

Is the click once per key turn, i.e. the starter solenoid engaging to put the starter in path with the engine flywheel?  Or, repeated clicks? Single click

Can you describe the "capacitor charging" sound?  Capacitor wouldn't normally make a noise, so curious what that is. Yeah, I wouldn't think there's a capacitor either but that's the best description that I have. Definitely has electricity.

Was the mower really bogged down in very heavy grass when it quit, or was this out of the blue? No, it was out of the blue.

BTW as far as re-starting, are the blades switched off?  And I'm sure you checked it but you have fuel? Yes, switched off.

 

[E4 No More]

 

33 minutes ago, DaveTN said:

The obvious first; fuel, air, spark. If it was running fine, simply shut off, and won’t try to start, but has a fully charged battery; it sounds like an electrical safety has kicked in. something could have rattled loose, like maybe the safety that shuts the mower off if you raise up from the seat.

How it shut off could be a clue. Did it shut off like you tuned the key off, or did it slow, stutter and die? Quickly slowed down and died.

 

 

[E4 No More]

26 minutes ago, BlessTheUSA said:

I'd confirm the battery was charging.  Is it at 12-13v?

Do you get 12v to the starter when the key is on?  If NOT, then either an issue with wirinf, ignition, etc, OR a switch or losse issue aa Dave pointed out.

If you DO get 12v at the starter but it won't turn over, that could be an issue but shouldn't be a reason it stopped.  So i bet starters ok.  But going down this path will help get to whatever electrical issue you may have.  Could be in the engine magneto or ground as well. 

I'll check that.

Also, just in case my vision has deteriorated and can't see fuses too well I replaced both of them and it still does not start and makes the same noises.

[Pain103]

Long shot but whens the last time you changed the fuel filter and spark plug?  Also were you mowing tall grass bogging the pulleys down? 

[Guest]

Since the starter solenoid clicks but the engine doesnt turn over, that sounds like you've likely got a charged battery, but should verify.  Probably as Dave said above some switch or safety engaged, or you have a loose wire / ground issue that you'll need to chase down.  

Alsp i suppose its possible the spark plug went bad (still an electrical issue) all of the sudden if the ceramic shattered?  May not be likely but if you have one on hand i might pop the new one in.  

[E4 No More]

14 minutes ago, BlessTheUSA said:

Since the starter solenoid clicks but the engine doesnt turn over, that sounds like you've likely got a charged battery, but should verify.  Probably as Dave said above some switch or safety engaged, or you have a loose wire / ground issue that you'll need to chase down.  

Alsp i suppose its possible the spark plug went bad (still an electrical issue) all of the sudden if the ceramic shattered?  May not be likely but if you have one on hand i might pop the new one in.  

Well, I went out with my voltmeter and looked around better. Saw quite a bit of oil on the grass/ground underneath the engine. I imagine there's a safety when the oil disappears to a certain level. Now I've got to drag it onto the trailer and take it to the shop. Really sucks that the mower is just a month over 2 years old.  

[gregintenn]

5 hours ago, E4 No More said:

Well, I went out with my voltmeter and looked around better. Saw quite a bit of oil on the grass/ground underneath the engine. I imagine there's a safety when the oil disappears to a certain level. Now I've got to drag it onto the trailer and take it to the shop. Really sucks that the mower is just a month over 2 years old.  

Blown engine?

 

There are probably bypass valves somewhere for the hydraulics that will let you move the mower much easier than dragging it.

Edited July 21, 2019 by gregintenn

[Guest]

4 hours ago, gregintenn said:

Blown engine?

 

There are probably bypass valves somewhere for the hydraulics that will let you move the mower much easier than dragging it.

Yeah, i haven't used a huge number of mowers, but i assume all have a physical switch to put the trans in neutral and allow you to push it. 

[jpx2rk]

The owners manual should tell you how to get the mower to move w/o the engine running.

It sounds like there is a possibility of low/no oil since you stated there was oil on the ground.  That oil could either be engine oil from the motor or from the hydro pumps.  Were there any leaks on the floor where the mower was stored???   Might just be a blown hydro hose to the pumps which could be controlled by a fluid level sensor.

[E4 No More]

46 minutes ago, jpx2rk said:

The owners manual should tell you how to get the mower to move w/o the engine running.

It sounds like there is a possibility of low/no oil since you stated there was oil on the ground.  That oil could either be engine oil from the motor or from the hydro pumps.  Were there any leaks on the floor where the mower was stored???   Might just be a blown hydro hose to the pumps which could be controlled by a fluid level sensor.

No, there were no leaks.

[Grayfox54]

I'm not familiar with Huskys, so I can't offer any specific advise. However, in general, most makers have gone out of their way in efforts to make mowers as idiot proof as possible. There are probably at least a half dozen safety switches that cover anything from blade engagement, neutral start or the seat. Plus many also have engine oil and hydraulic oil sensors. Any of which can shut down the engine and cause a no start condition. If you're not mechanically inclined, take it to the dealer.

The oil on the ground concerns me. Never a good sign. Can you tell if its engine oil or hydraulic oil? Hyd oil may just be a blown hose. Engine oil could get real expensive.  

Most hydrostatic  drive systems do have a way to relieve pressure or disengage so the mower can be pushed. Check your owners manual. 

[Two Dogs]

Not a Huskie but my toro has three safeties that will do what you described, seat switch, blade engaged and parking brake.

[subsonic]

On the rear "bumper" there are two keyhole slots with metal bars having right angle bends and a washer welded on the shaft a couple of inches in. Pull those out and lock in that position, that releases the hydraulic pressure on the drive units. Also, if one or both of the steering bars is not completely pushed outward in the neutral position, mower won't start.

Edited July 23, 2019 by subsonic

[No_0ne]

2 hours ago, subsonic said:

On the rear "bumper" there are two keyhole slots with metal bars having right angle bends and a washer welded on the shaft a couple of inches in. Pull those out and lock in that position, that releases the hydraulic pressure on the drive units. Also, if one or both of the steering bars is not completely pushed outward in the neutral position, mower won't start.

^This.  Modern hydros don't react well to being "dragged", without being placed in the "tow" position first.  It doesn't take much to shell them internally doing this ...

[E4 No More]

Thanks, guys, but when I say "drag it onto the trailer" I really mean to pull it onto the trailer after releasing the bypass linkages. Even with the bypass linkages released it doesn't want to move very well, and after having two back surgeries I'm just not as capable as I was a few years ago. If my grandson's and I can't push it up onto the trailer I'll have to use a come-along to load it.

Now that it's rained so much I have to wait for the field to dry too.  

[gregintenn]

Can you determine if the oil you saw was motor oil or hydraulic fluid (check the levels of each)?

Hydraulic oil probably=blown hose.

Engine oil probably =blown engine.

[E4 No More]

10 minutes ago, gregintenn said:

Can you determine if the oil you saw was motor oil or hydraulic fluid (check the levels of each)?

Hydraulic oil probably=blown hose.

Engine oil probably =blown engine.

It looks like engine oil and is dripping of the crankshaft pulley but the hydraulic fluid reservoir is empty so....   

[RED333]

Find the bad hose, or leak at the hydraulic pump.

[gregintenn]

17 minutes ago, E4 No More said:

It looks like engine oil and is dripping of the crankshaft pulley but the hydraulic fluid reservoir is empty so....   

I hope there is a warranty involved.

[E4 No More]

1 hour ago, gregintenn said:

I hope there is a warranty involved.

Humm...SLE Power told me one year but Husqvarna's website says 4 years. I may be in luck!

[Grayfox54]

Check the engine oil. If its full, you likely just blew a hydraulic hose. Cheap fix, but some of them can be a real booger to get to.