Dedicated reload space

[I40Bandit]

I am giddy. Working as hard as I can to get my dedicated climate controlled reloading space up a working.... without dying in the friggin heat!

Here's a 3D model of my plan.

The A frame looking things are press mounts. They will be made of Maple ply (will stain) and patterned from this guys mount:

https://rickaverill.com/projects-past-and-present/dillon-rl-550b-mount/

Instead of hard mounting direct to the bench, I am using tee nut inserts (screw mount, not the 3 pokey prong style), like this guy did:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/93396776@N06/albums/72157663547333758/with/27602044619/

That way the presses and smaller tools (case trimmer, manual charge thrower etc) can easily be removed leaving the bench free and clear of semi permanent obstructions for cleaning/smithing etc.

 

The bench has an underlay of OSB and will have a white Melamine top with fascia caps boards around the perimeter. They will sit about 1/4" above the working surface to stop rolling things (cases, projectiles etc) from bailing off.

 

[Jamie Jackson]

Looking good Bandit!

[I40Bandit]

Man, 123 degrees "feels like" heat index. Brutal.

[Jamie Jackson]

Any updates on the bench progression?

You better take some photos because if yours turns out like mine clutter will miraculously appear!  

[I40Bandit]

Not much to update in that area @Jamie Jackson . I have only spent an hour or so on it since Monday. I almost have all the parts cut out of the Maple ply for the Dillon and Rock Chucker mounts. If I manage to drag my weary bones up to the shop this morning I'll have all parts cut and begin drilling dowel holes. Biggest thing I did was relocate bulk ammos to the room. I need to get into Nashville to get the Melamine top and fascia boards for the bench. I want one continuous top so I need to go to Home Depot (they sell 4x8 sheets) because Lowes doesn't have 8ft long boards wider than 15". So that's a 130 mile round trip in a truck I am waiting to combine with other needs.

The reload room project is an extension of a much larger project. Since moving here my shop has been more like a giant storage shed than a functional shop. Things were deposited in the move or have accumulated since and never seemed to find a permanent home. I finally had enough of it and am dealing with it. So, much like chess I have to move pieces around in order to get the stage set for the end game. In order to free up space 'A' to build a bench and shelves, I have to move crap 'R' thru 'Z'. But where to put crap 'R' thru 'Z'? Well, R thru Z would make sense in space C, but then crap D thru Q needs to be moved etc, etc......etc. An arduous process when the temp is 95+ and heat index reaches (a new high) 125.

[hipower]

Fully understand your situation and frustration there, I40Bandit. 

I've been converting a small(roughly 8x12) room that was a "home office" into what has become my man dog house and a personal library. My wife rarely enters it anymore. I now have 2 walls done in bookcases, floor to ceiling.

Initially, I've been using wooden folding bookcases that we've had for years, attaching them with 1 5/8 wood screws on the insides, and 2 1x3 boards on the back for additional bracing and stability.

Also had some older Sauder kit CD/DVD shelving from previous use. I used 1x12 finished boards(for looks...lol) on top of the folding case unit by predrilling holes in the uprights of the old bookcases and the 1x12, then again with the 1 5/8 screws to attach them to each other.

This gave me a stable base to place the CD/DVD case on the top and do the same thing as with the folding cases. That gave me a 7'W x 9'H unit covering one wall. I like it. My wife...not so much.

The only out of pocket expense was the 1x12. 

Then did a similar project for the longer wall using salvage and yard sale bookcases. Got sort of interesting finding specific sizes to make it all fit, but I enjoyed the search and getting it put together.

I did finish it and had a 13" wide gap left over in the corner behind the door. Just couldn't decide on what to do with it. 

Solved it by attaching a piece of an old curtain to the case and the wall. Makes a nice spot to place a rifle and hang a pistol or two. Out of sight and quick access.

Now trying to convince wifey that I really need to keep going over the desk and other short wall.

But after covering one window, she's not too keen on that. 

Hey... the point is use what you got as much as possible and spend as little as possible.

I look forward to seeing more pics of your personal loading space.

 

Edited July 13, 2019 by hipower

[DaveTN]

Is your 3D model a software model, or did you actually make a model?

[I40Bandit]

2 minutes ago, DaveTN said:

Is your 3D model a software model, or did you actually make a model?

Created in Autodesk Fusion 360 software. My go to anymore for mock ups like above and modelling 3D printable parts.

[DaveTN]

6 minutes ago, I40Bandit said:

Created in Autodesk Fusion 360 software. My go to anymore for mock ups like above and modelling 3D printable parts.

Interesting. I just looked that up, with a quick glance; it’s free for hobbyists? Can it create or import a .STP file? Any obvious limitations?

[I40Bandit]

5 hours ago, DaveTN said:

Interesting. I just looked that up, with a quick glance; it’s free for hobbyists? Can it create or import a .STP file? Any obvious limitations?

Yes, free for hobbyists. It will not export an .STP (EDIT: I was wrong, yes it will), but will import one. Screen grab below of the currently compatible files for import.

 

In addition you can import an .SVG and use it in a design, like the spartan molon labe on my 3D printable AR mag speed loader available on Thingiverse....

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3551655

 

I really can't think of any limitations, at least not for the average hobbyist. My biggest gripe is it's partially cloud based, so you are forced every 10 days to let it connect. They tend to update A LOT, so managing data usage is part of using for me.

I can export .STL files directly to my 3D printer host for slicing, or can use Autodesks Meshmixer software to do any mesh fixing and custom support making and also slice from it. It will create drawings from selected components. You can create tool paths and finished code for CNC/CAM. It will simulate motions based on joints you create/designate. It will simulate stress loads on parts and help you design a part that survives the intended use. If you are working with sheet metal there is a special sheet metal module that caters to the geometry involved. There's a T-spline module for some (somewhat) free form modelling....not anything like Blender, but still useful. You can model parametric, or turn it off. It's quite versatile. And free for hobbists. I don't use much else ATM.

 

Edited July 13, 2019 by I40Bandit

[TomInMN]

Thank you @I40Bandit for the five into capabilities. You posted a screenshot of importable file types, would you post something similar for exportable file types?

Thanks again!

[I40Bandit]

1 hour ago, TomInMN said:

Thank you @I40Bandit for the five into capabilities. You posted a screenshot of importable file types, would you post something similar for exportable file types?

Thanks again!

 

5 hours ago, DaveTN said:

Interesting. I just looked that up, with a quick glance; it’s free for hobbyists? Can it create or import a .STP file? Any obvious limitations?

Sure thing @TomInMN . I don't do importing or exporting of other file types, so I cannot speak to how well it handles/translates any of these file types, except .STL and .SVG....sometimes .OBJ.

@DaveTN There's your answer for exporting .STP, yes it will. I should have just looked. Like I just said above, I never import/export. Interesting note it will import a .STE STEP file, but will not export as such.

Edited July 13, 2019 by I40Bandit

[DaveTN]

22 minutes ago, I40Bandit said:

There's your answer for exporting. I should have just looked. Like I just said above, I never import/export. Interesting it will import a .STE STEP file, but will not export as such.

 

That's okay, .STP is great for me.

 

[TomInMN]

Thanks @I40Bandit!

[I40Bandit]

A little progress has been made on this project. I've been side tracked in the shop doing other things.

The melamine top has been cut. Not yet secured...

 

 

Also, I'm sure you can't miss the Dillon mount has been built. Doweled, glued and screwed. Quite strong. I still need to clear lacquer it. Also still need to finish the rock chucker mount. I have all the pieces cut already.

 

 

I had some tongue and groove hardwood boards left over from previous owners (no idea where they used them, but not in the house). So I cut the tongue off, leaving the bevel, then stained and lacquer cleared one. Came out better than I need or deserve, so I am proceeding with making the rest of the fascia cap boards. They are not the finest specimen boards, and I could have sanded the first one better, but oh well. Good enough. I might remove the first one and put it on the back side of the bench...I think the second one will be a bit nicer.

The one sitting on top just got stained today and is drying before the lacquer clear coats are applied.

 

 

I also procured the hardware to mount the press mounts to the table top. I 3D printed some hand wheel knobs for the 3/8" bolts...

 

~Bandit

[Jamie Jackson]

Looking great bandit!

Thanks for the pics.

[Quavodus]

Very nice setups. I have got to get my stuff set back up.

[I40Bandit]

Installed the rest of the fascia boards and secured the top to the under laying OSB top today. Also drilled the first set of mount holes.

 

 

Boy, it is exceedingly difficult, if not impossible to drill taper holes in Melamine and not chip it. I tried the tricks I knew, ultimately resigning to the fact that I would just white paint the chips to blend them out.

 

Love these cast tee nuts that mount with 3 screws...

 

I have to work on the 'bridging' of PETG material on my printer. PLA bridges much better. For those not understanding, the top side of the knob cap printed down against the print bed. It built up a few layers making the outline of the helmet and rest of the knob, then bridged across it (across open air, no support). Marginal bridging is why there are a wavy lines that are not fused well. Still a usable knob though.

 

 

~Bandit

 

[Jamie Jackson]

While I may not understand the 3D printing concepts,  I certainly admire your carpentry skills !

Nice!

[gregintenn]

Great thread!

[TomInMN]

On 8/11/2019 at 1:08 PM, I40Bandit said:

Marginal bridging is why there are a wavy lines that are not fused well. Still a usable knob though.

 

 

~Bandit

 

Would it hold some kind of sludgy thick paint as a color fill for those areas?

[I40Bandit]

On 8/17/2019 at 6:25 PM, TomInMN said:

Would it hold some kind of sludgy thick paint as a color fill for those areas?

Probably. I'm not going to sweat it and just touch them with a paint pen.