Need some advice

[KahrMan]

I understand this is all speculation until I get it checked out but want to hear some of y'al's thoughts on the issue.

 

I just bought several 1911's in an auction.  Here is what is happening with one of them.  If the slide is locked open and press the slide release while holding the slide and bring it into battery, the hammer stays cocked like it should.  If the slide is locked open and I press the slide release and let the slide close on its own, the hammer drops.  Does this mean that if the slide is locked back, I insert a loaded mag and press the slide release to chamber a round that it will slam fire?   I have never had a hammer drop like this from the slide shutting.  

 

Thoughts?

[Whisper]

Does the hammer fall all the way, or just to the half-cock notch?  No matter which, if the hammer falls when you push the slide latch, this gun is wrong, and is either heavily worn or else has been customized by some gunjones who didn't know what he was doing.  You'll likely need a new hammer.

Cheers,

Whisper

 

Edited October 4, 2018 by Whisper

[KahrMan]

I believe it drops all the way.  I guess it is time to watch some youtube videos on how to replace a hammer.

[mikegideon]

I just replaced a hammer on a 1911. Easy peasy. Here ya go. Brownell's vid...

 

Edited October 4, 2018 by mikegideon

[KahrMan]

Looks fairly easy.  Thanks for the video.

[Garufa]

I replaced the trigger in a 1911 one time.  It was a great big PITA.  “Fitting” was definitely required.

I hope hammers are easier.

[mikegideon]

My hammer was drop-in. And it was Wilson Combat hammer into a Philipino gun. I have always heard triggers DO require fitting.

[Sidecarist]

Try this... when dropping the slide on an EMPTY chamber WITHOUT a magazine in the gun. NO ammo around etc......

Pin the trigger back then release the slide with the slide stop. This keeps the disconnector down as the slide slams home, and eliminates the bounce of the trigger & disconnector. If the hammer falls there are issues hammer/sear engagement. If the hammer stays back release the trigger and listen. There should be a click as the disconnector moves up.

If you have a trigger scale measure the pull after this test. Compare the pull to when the hammer is thumb clocked on an EMPTY chamber. If there is a difference in pull weight then the hammer/sear geometry is wrong. 

I learned this from an old bullseye shooter with a box full of Jim Clark guns.

Dropping tge slide on an empty chamber it much tougher on a gun than when its dropped on an empty chamber.

 

 

[DaveTN]

My WAG is a worn or improperly adjusted sear spring. I’d try replacing or adjusting it before replacing the hammer.

[KahrMan]

I finally took my 1911 to a gunsmith.  Whoever messed with it before I bought it had filed on the sear and the hammer.  Replaced both of those and added a Wilson Combat beavertail.  It now functions like it should and has a fantastic trigger.

 

[E4 No More]

6 minutes ago, KahrMan said:

I finally took my 1911 to a gunsmith.  Whoever messed with it before I bought it had filed on the sear and the hammer.  Replaced both of those and added a Wilson Combat beavertail.  It now functions like it should and has a fantastic trigger.

 

I had something similar with a 1911 A1. I replaced the guts and still had trouble. I took it up to the gunsmith at Greenbriar to look at it. Turns out it was simply the over-travel screw on the trigger that was the culprit.