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Taxidermy "How to"


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As long as your hide is fresh and not rotting, there is very little smell involved. I just checked it out and you can get enough chems to do a yote for about $20.00. It takes about a 5 gallon mix. Just remember to use NON-IODIZED SALT in your mix!

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Guest clutepc

Just thought I would ask in case there is a better product I should be using.

I tanned a deer hide last using this kit and it came out great I think.

No problem with hair falling out and the skin is soft and flexible.

Van Dyke's Taxidermy Supply

K7111

If anyone has any suggestions I'd like to hear them.

I have a big doe hide I'm about to start salting so I thought I'd post the question.

Edited by clutepc
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If you're just going to do one or two hides, that is a fine kit for it. You had success with the first one, don't change now! I personaly use Lutan F tan. I do alot of hides so I buy in bulk. Also remember, that the thinner you can flesh a hide down to, the softer it can become.

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Guest clutepc
If you're just going to do one or two hides, that is a fine kit for it. You had success with the first one, don't change now! I personaly use Lutan F tan. I do alot of hides so I buy in bulk. Also remember, that the thinner you can flesh a hide down to, the softer it can become.

Thanks, It's just one hide, I'm going to spend more time fleshing this one so maybe it'll be better than the last.

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There is no magic wand for tanning a deer hide (or any hide for that matter). Fleshed well, shaved thin and worked during it's drying stage. You can tan a deer hide with a pack of pork brains from the grocery store, a bar of Fels Naptha Soap, and the list goes on and on. But it all boils down to elbow grease and a thin hide.

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Guest clutepc

I've seen various fleshing tools, anything you recommend in particular.

I used a knife and a few different scrapers last time which isn't what I should be using I'm sure.

I'd like to do a better job with this one.

I appreciate your all your advice.. thanks

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If I flesh and thin by hand, I like a small curved bladed knife that will fit my hand. And old (must be sharp) curved bladed butcher knife works well for thinning/shaving. Placing a piece of 2x4 or 2x6 under the area of the hide you're working will help you greatly.

Another trick you can use to thin a hide down is, build you a 6x8 foot frame of 2x4's. Flesh, pickle and tan the hide as usual. Allow to drain. Lace the deer hide onto the frame using clothesline (I use parachute cord) and small "S" hooks, stretch it tight. Allow hide to completely dry. When dry use an electric sander, and while being extremely careful, sand the hide thin. Any holes you may cut can be repaired later. Take the hide down, soak in a bucket of salt water until pliable. Rinse and drain. When drained, apply your softening oil and proceed as usual. Remember, the thinner a deer hide is, the softer it will finish out.

If you need more info, shoot me a PM and I'll give you my phone number and you can give me a call.

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When I run my shop I toyed with the idea of giving Taxidermy lesson. I still think about giving lessons but logistics would be a nightmare I think. Now that I'm retired from the Fire Department, I may entertain that idea.

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Guest adamoxtwo

So what's the best way to empty a skull when doing a Euro mount? I boiled the skull, but can't seem to get it clean inside. Advice is more the welcome.

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Use uniodized salt. It's available at all grocery stores. I buy it in 50 lb bags at the co-op. It's sold as meat curing salt. As far as tanning kits go, alot depends on what you want to tan. I like Lutan F sold by McKenzie and VanDykes. They should come with a softening oil and pickling chemicals as well. You can dry a hide "hard as a rock" or soft and dry. Drying time is variable depending on temperature, moisture ect.. If you can give me an idea what you are tanning, I'll be a little more specific for ya. Degreasing doesn't hurt either. Commercial degreaser for heavy grease hides, dawn dish detergent lightly greased hides. I hope this helps.

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Lutan F works real well for those. I used to tan alot of the species you mentioned in rug work and just plain old hide tanning. Lutan will tan a hide like that in mere hours. skin out, rough flesh by removing only the large chunks of meat and flesh. Salt well, rubbing salt (un-iodized) into every crevice. Fold flesh to flesh, roll up and let set in a cool place for a day. Unroll and shake out your excess salt. Mix your pickle according to directions. Let hide soak in that solution a couple of days. Remove and flesh again. This time removing everythiing all the way down to the skin. Be careful not to cut the skin. However, you can stitch up later. Return to the pickle for another day or two. Make sure the PH of your pickle solution does not rise above 2-3. Remove from pickle, drain and soak in a couple of gallons of water with baking soda mixed (instructions will come with your pickle and tan). After soaking rinse well. Prepare your tan and place hide in it. I think the species you mention will tan in about 8-10 hours or so. Follow instructions from there.

1 quart of Ultimate acid (pickle)

5 pounds of Lutan F Tan

1 Quart of softening oil

5 pounds of uniodized salt

All of this will tan several hides. It's well worth the investment. I don't use tanning kits because they don't seem cost effective when doing several hides. I believe you would be far better buying in the amounts mentioned. Visit Van Dyke's or http://www.mckenzietaxidermy.com I have no interest in these companies, other than that's where I buy my shop supplies.

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Guest adamoxtwo
Lutan F works real well for those. I used to tan alot of the species you mentioned in rug work and just plain old hide tanning. Lutan will tan a hide like that in mere hours. skin out, rough flesh by removing only the large chunks of meat and flesh. Salt well, rubbing salt (un-iodized) into every crevice. Fold flesh to flesh, roll up and let set in a cool place for a day. Unroll and shake out your excess salt. Mix your pickle according to directions. Let hide soak in that solution a couple of days. Remove and flesh again. This time removing everythiing all the way down to the skin. Be careful not to cut the skin. However, you can stitch up later. Return to the pickle for another day or two. Make sure the PH of your pickle solution does not rise above 2-3. Remove from pickle, drain and soak in a couple of gallons of water with baking soda mixed (instructions will come with your pickle and tan). After soaking rinse well. Prepare your tan and place hide in it. I think the species you mention will tan in about 8-10 hours or so. Follow instructions from there.

1 quart of Ultimate acid (pickle)

5 pounds of Lutan F Tan

1 Quart of softening oil

5 pounds of uniodized salt

All of this will tan several hides. It's well worth the investment. I don't use tanning kits because they don't seem cost effective when doing several hides. I believe you would be far better buying in the amounts mentioned. Visit Van Dyke's or MCKENZIETAXIDERMY.COM I have no interest in these companies, other than that's where I buy my shop supplies.

is that where your student's should shop for class?:taunt:

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Guest clutepc

I'll be starting to flesh another deer skin tonight.

It's only 2nd one I've ever done so I wanted to use something I was familiar with.

K7111

I used this kit last year and worked well and the hide came out nice

If I get a coyote this year I'm going to try Lutan on it, sounds like it does a good job.

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